BLO on Garand

[ASP785]

I was able to purchase a really nice Garand from a fellow member and was wondering if a light coat of pure BLO would reduce the rifles value?

 

[SMS]

IMHO, unless it is a "correct" stock with all the cartouches intact, on a correct rifle, it won't hurt the value at all.

 

[Sanford]

Linseed oil was the original finish for Garands so it won't hurt the value at all as long as you don't get too enthusiastic and wander into the "refinishing" realm.

For wood stocked military rifles I use a mix of 50/50 mineral spirits and BLO rubbed in with a non-abrasive scouring pad (the blue ones from Home Depot, etc.) scrub on liberally, let sit a few hours, then wipe off and polish with a soft cloth. You can do the same with pure linseed oil but you'll want to take a bit more care to avoid too much buildup in the nooks and crannies that can become sticky after drying, and also give it more drying time overall. Hope it helps!

 

[Perplexed]

What Sanford said; linseed oil was the original finish used by the factory and the military. Later in WW2, they started using tung oil as well - in the PURE form, not in a "finish" - so you can't go wrong using either oil. For my part, I use PTO, and it leaves a lovely appearance.

If you want the reddish tint found on M1's that haven't been refinished in a long time, use linseed oil. It's the oxidization of that oil that causes the reddish look.

 

[ASP785]

I am not really looking for any particular finish, just the wood is a little dry. I figure a little BLO would do wonders. Thank you Sanford for the mineral spirits tip!

 

[SMS]

Superfine steel wool works good with the mineral spirits as well...

 

[Perplexed]

You can also use citrus solvent, which I get here: http://www.realmilkpaint.com It's great stuff, and leaves a pleasant smell. The company is my source of PTO as well, which comes in two forms - regular and dark. I use the latter on stocks needing an area darkened to match the rest of the wood, and apply more of the PTO/solvent mix to the light area than to the rest of the stock. It works nicely.

 

[AKguy1985]

What Sanford said; linseed oil was the original finish used by the factory and the military. Later in WW2, they started using tung oil as well - in the PURE form, not in a "finish" - so you can't go wrong using either oil. For my part, I use PTO, and it leaves a lovely appearance.

If you want the reddish tint found on M1's that haven't been refinished in a long time, use linseed oil. It's the oxidization of that oil that causes the reddish look.

And I agree with what perplexed said.

 

[LDA.45]

Be careful with the Linseed as most of them have varnish in them and will give a really crappy finish.
As in a very shiny slick and UGLY!!!
What I use is Fair Trimmers military Ox which a patented mix and available from Midway.
It's as close as you can get to the original finish and really looks good.

 

[flatwins]

Linseed oil was the original finish for Garands so it won't hurt the value at all as long as you don't get too enthusiastic and wander into the "refinishing" realm. For wood stocked military rifles I use a mix of 50/50 mineral spirits and BLO rubbed in with a non-abrasive scouring pad (the blue ones from Home Depot, etc.) scrub on liberally, let sit a few hours, then wipe off and polish with a soft cloth. You can do the same with pure linseed oil but you'll want to take a bit more care to avoid too much buildup in the nooks and crannies that can become sticky after drying, and also give it more drying time overall. Hope it helps!

I've done this a few times and have been pleased with the results. Oddly enough, I suggested this same technique in the Swede section on the Surplus Rifle forum and with the responses I received, you'd think I'd asked to sleep with one's sister.