I have annealed with the propane torch and have had excellent results. There is no need for expensive equipment (although I have this now) to save your brass. Send me a note if you wnt to discuss moreI thought all you needed was a propane torch and a pan of water... never done it, but I've seen videos so might be talking out of my Biden...
I don't like the "pan of water" methof myself. I use something to turn the brass in the flame until it gets to the desired color
I have used the propane torch method with good results when reforming one shell into another.
Never had need to do it for a forming issue.
Just don’t heat the head of the case.
Some brass (405 Winchester by hornaday) is annealed after final forming.
Never had need to do it for a forming issue.
Just don’t heat the head of the case.
Some brass (405 Winchester by hornaday) is annealed after final forming.
Excellent advise. I would try this first
I don't know if it's too slow of a burning powder, I'm still very new to reloading. All I know is I found the data for the powders I used in the reloading books. What do you recommend?
Although I have crimped in the past I am not crimping now since this is a bolt action gun and I've been told it isn't necessary. Thing is, I have had the same issue with both crimped and non-crimped ammo so I'm not sure if that could be the cause of the problem or not.
Yes, the brass is clean and oil free, I make sure of that.
As a point of reference, I get similar looking brass with factory Hornady Black with a can.
These are my 6.5 new lapua srp w/ 38gr of BL-C2 behind a 123gr ELD-M using CCI #41 out of a Uintah Precision 26" with no comp or can.
I've tried 4831sc in Hornady lrp brass with similar results so I'm thinking the burr/machine mark would be more than plausible. Good luck finding the issue.
I would try the tac in mine but my bolt is out getting bushed for probably another month.
Just wanted to give y'all an update. Picked up some Accurate 4350 today and no more soot. Thanks for all the help, it is much appreciated.
