Chevy truck symptoms just started today

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Snattlerake

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There is a main body ground on the frame kinda behind the driver side front wheel. Remove them and clean the area real well with a wire brush or wheel. It’s a common issue
Yeah, last month when I had it up on the rack, I checked every ground I could find.
But still, it could be a ground on the right window. The radio has been crap ever since I bought it.
 

dlbleak

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Yeah, last month when I had it up on the rack, I checked every ground I could find.
But still, it could be a ground on the right window. The radio has been crap ever since I bought it.
Sometimes my radio won’t go off when I close the door. Other times, the interior lights won’t come on when I open the doors. I have to recheck them each time. Kind of a pain but if I don’t , it will drain the battery.
The door harness shorts are another common issue😡
 

okcBob

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Sometimes my radio won’t go off when I close the door. Other times, the interior lights won’t come on when I open the doors. I have to recheck them each time. Kind of a pain but if I don’t , it will drain the battery.
The door harness shorts are another common issue😡
The door harness issue makes sense. My ‘05 Chevy blazer passenger rear door doesn’t trigger the interior lights anymore. Window & power locks still work. Although it might be a door switch issue too.
 
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RadioTech

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Sometimes my radio won’t go off when I close the door. Other times, the interior lights won’t come on when I open the doors. I have to recheck them each time. Kind of a pain but if I don’t , it will drain the battery.
The door harness shorts are another common issue😡
Had this happen on the wife's 2000 Pontiac sunfire, it is the door switch driver side.
 

KroyWen

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Sometimes my radio won’t go off when I close the door. Other times, the interior lights won’t come on when I open the doors. I have to recheck them each time. Kind of a pain but if I don’t , it will drain the battery.
The door harness shorts are another common issue😡
Same Same w mine.
Another issue w the older Silverados, the dashboard gauges stop working individually. Each gauge has it’s own tiny motor. They can be serviced or replaced.
 
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I’m looking in on this a little late, but you initially reported noticing a labored start, slow or failed passenger door window motor and low voltage reading on the starting battery (12.0)vdc after after engine shut down and left overnight or longer. Faulty ground was ruled out. Batteries with an open cell can present with a fairly high voltage after charging but the voltage will plummet on engine start. (Note- Starter motors can fail and draw enormous loads from a vehicle’s battery before total failing). So, what was the observed battery voltage drop during engine start on a fully charging the battery (12.8)vdc?
Next, good batteries can drain down if there is an indirect high resistance (paralytic) short to ground in one of a vehicles electrical systems, or worse, a wiring harness.
I did’t see a resting amperage check with all systems turned off and doors closed. If it’s over 0.1 ampere, there’s a paralytic short somewhere. To locate it, start removing fuses while observing the amperage drawn from the battery with doors closed. If an elevated current reading persists and you’re unable to isolate a specific wiring system, you’ll need to examine the wiring harness wherever you can access it, push and pull on it while observing amperage to try to locate the problem. I’ve had wood rats damage wiring over the years on vehicles, mowers and atvs.

Finally, I passed this on to my Dog, but she wouldn’t even give it a w.a.g. She doesn’t care for Chevy or Ford Vehicles. However, if it’s a Dodge, you can’t shut her up…..
1724168982166.jpeg
 

Snattlerake

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Update: I went to the store to get groceries yesterday. It started fine in the driveway after sitting for two days. A mile away in the parking lot and insert the key... nnnope..nooop...click stutter... ~sigh~.

I asked for a jump start from a lady with a new Genesis. It was hot outside and she was in a hurry. She didn't even know where the internal hood release was. Anyway, the hood came up and geeze, no battery! We couldn't find it anywhere. I'm betting it was in the trunk. :anyone:

She left and I got a jump from a feller in an SUV. He let me hook up the cables which is great with me as I subscribe to the never-to-battery ground option on the charging vehicle. My goto is the A/C mount. The cables went direct to the battery positive and a ground and . . . silence. Absolutely nothing even after 5 minutes of charging. Not even a spark when attaching the cables. I checked the charging voltage from his battery at the end of the jumper cables which was 14.5 VDC.

OK, Snatterake, think!
I found the positive junction in the engine compartment and bypassed the battery. Voila!

I have been checking battery prices most of the evening. I have a group 78 1,000 CCA born in 2017. It finally gave up. Prices are anywhere from $400+shipped or $165 at Wallyworld. I would rather take a beating than go into a Wallyworld but, times are tough right now. By the way, it's a battery from Wallyworld that died after lasting 7-plus years of hard discharging and charging due to me forgetting to turn off my camera several hundred times.

I did get the battery tray out and it had very minor corrosion which I scrubbed off and painted. I cleaned all of the mounting bolts and painted them and I fixed a windshield washer leak I finally found with some new washer hose I had on hand.

Wifey is coming home for lunch and I will take her to work and then get the new battery.
 

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