Driveway repair or complete redo - Recommendations

[-Pjackso]

The "depth of excavation" is based on your long-term road rebuild plan when complete. (Base and surface)
Roads also need drainage, so I'd recommend planning on a slightly elevated road above grade. And/or cut a ditch on each side. Drainage is important to shead water away from the road.

To be straight - (As you stated) I'd recommend removing the existing road and excavate 6", if using chip-seal (which is a thin application).

For our HOA, I spec 6" thick rock base and 6" asphalt IAW the city spec, so we excavate 12" from road surface (6" + 6").
The thick base is to accomodate reoccurring heavy trucks (garbage/delivery). You may have heavy farm equipment, so maybe 6" is right for you also. *YOU* need to gauge how thick you want it.

For the contractors that work our road repairs - the rock/aggregate is typically 0.75" - 1.25" in size. The rock needs to be angular, not smooth/round. I think this is obvious, but it's worth stating.

After excavating the dirt, compact the bare dirt to full compaction.
Add a 2" layer ("lift") of rock base, and fully compact the rock layer. Add the next 2" layer and repeat until all 6" of rock base is in and compacted. Note: I'm not sure just driving a tractor, truck, or skid steer is enough. That'll only do the tire footprint, and I'm not sure the tire compacting "psi" in the ground is enough.
**** You'll probably need to rent a compactor.

Some websites recommend using different sized rocks at each layer (big at bottom/med/small at top). Our contractors always use the same size aggregate for the full depth.

As for using geotextile, it's a toss-up. On one hand, the Geo-fabric stops rocks from sinking into the dirt (which usually isn't really a problem). On the other hand, geo-fabric can choke up with dirt over time - and the fabric can 'channel' drainage under the road and accelerate erosion. In the end, make your best guess. Our HOA doesn't use Geo-fabric.

At this point, you've built a strong 6" thick gravel road.
Add the top surface you like. Chip-Seal, Asphalt, or Concrete.

References:
For more reading per Norman specification:
https://www.normanstreets.com/
- Reference – City of Norman - Standard Specifications and Construction Drawing – Section 2205 Pavement Removal and Replacement. Search for "2205"
- Reference – City of Norman - Standard Specifications and Construction Drawing – Residential Estate/Local (Rural) Street, Drawing No ST 04 - Section view. Search for "ST 04"

How much materials do you need?
Gravel calculator:
https://www.gigacalculator.com/calculators/gravel-calculator.php

Asphalt calculators:
https://www.haskelllemon.com/asphalt-sales/
https://www.gigacalculator.com/calculators/asphalt-calculator.php
Note: There are different 'grades' of asphalt, each using different sizes of aggregate and different oil % content. Type S3 uses 0.75-1.0" rock (roughest surface), Type S4 uses 5/8" rock, and Type S5 uses 3/8"-1/2" rock (smoothest surface). Our HOA uses S5 (smoothest) ashpalt, which looks like every road your thinking of.

Haskell Lemon is the OKC local asphalt manufacturer, if you want to call the sales for $/ton.

 

[-Pjackso]

If you're short on time, I recommend you try to get a couple quotes.
At least you have a better idea of what part of the road is important and what to focus on.
Talk with your contractor and discuss options (given your information).

Maybe get a quote for a 6" thick gravel road. Afterward, you can apply chip-seal on top of it.

If you're really thinking of trying it yourself, do a small 40-ft test section to gauge the hassle factor. And/or - do the project in small sections based on your time/money constraints.



Disclaimer: I am an engineer, but I'm *NOT* a civil engineer. I help manage my HOA roads and I've had decent success, but I make no guarantee implied or expressed.

Good luck!

 

[-Pjackso]

I'd like to back-up and provide you another view for your consideration...

1) My repair approach (per city spec) is due to me having to manage my HOA roads. In our HOA, we have 50-yr old asphalt roads with *NO* rock base. In multiple road locations the base is failing, it settles with high traffic loading (usually where garbage trucks regularly stop to get trash), the base fails and the asphalt settles with the base.

In my situation, I need a smooth repair - but I need to fix the underlying problem. I excavate the failed road location (road and base) and rebuild per city spec. This fix should be a permanent fix for my HOA at the repair locations.

NOTE: In my HOA, the roads are still mostly good/serviceable after 50 years ***with NO base***.

.........Think about that.
Wait, .........Think about it again:
Even without a rock base, my HOA roads lasted 50-years in mostly good condition. Our HOA is lucky because the "dirt" is mostly keeping up with our HOA traffic loads.

2) If your road looks bad, but DOESN'T have road-base failures (sinking/settling/ NO tire path rutting) - then that's a good data point. It shows that your current road (and road base) is -mostly- keeping up with your driveway traffic loads.

If this is your case, then you may have the option of just chip-seal over your existing road with the understanding that it's 'good-enough'. Touch-up when it's necessary.

Or, with this consideration, maybe using a thinner rock base 2"-4" would be enough, since (no) base was doing mostly ok.


I still recommend an aggregate/rock base.
But there are also times where 'less' is 'good-enough'. There is no road that is maintenance free. All roads require fixes over time. Choose the best-fit for your needs.


In summary, I've recommended an over-kill solution for your driveway.
...And then followed-up with rational to leave it as-is and just chip-seal it.

Engineers: We over-think everything and make it all confusing. You're welcome!
: )

 

[Parks 788]

I'd like to back-up and provide you another view for your consideration...

1) My repair approach (per city spec) is due to me having to manage my HOA roads. In our HOA, we have 50-yr old asphalt roads with *NO* rock base. In multiple road locations the base is failing, it settles with high traffic loading (usually where garbage trucks regularly stop to get trash), the base fails and the asphalt settles with the base.

In my situation, I need a smooth repair - but I need to fix the underlying problem. I excavate the failed road location (road and base) and rebuild per city spec. This fix should be a permanent fix for my HOA at the repair locations.

NOTE: In my HOA, the roads are still mostly good/serviceable after 50 years ***with NO base***.

.........Think about that.
Wait, .........Think about it again:
Even without a rock base, my HOA roads lasted 50-years in mostly good condition. Our HOA is lucky because the "dirt" is mostly keeping up with our HOA traffic loads.

2) If your road looks bad, but DOESN'T have road-base failures (sinking/settling/ NO tire path rutting) - then that's a good data point. It shows that your current road (and road base) is -mostly- keeping up with your driveway traffic loads.

If this is your case, then you may have the option of just chip-seal over your existing road with the understanding that it's 'good-enough'. Touch-up when it's necessary.

Or, with this consideration, maybe using a thinner rock base 2"-4" would be enough, since (no) base was doing mostly ok.


I still recommend an aggregate/rock base.
But there are also times where 'less' is 'good-enough'. There is no road that is maintenance free. All roads require fixes over time. Choose the best-fit for your needs.


In summary, I've recommended an over-kill solution for your driveway.
...And then followed-up with rational to leave it as-is and just seal-coat it.

Engineers: We over-think everything and make it all confusing. You're welcome!
: )

Dang Pjackso! Thanks for the great intel. I really appreciate the detail. I may do what you say with a small section of road and see how it goes. Luckily for me I manage an equipment rental location so can bring gear home when needed. Skid steers, double drum rollers, mini excavators, etc.

 

[-Pjackso]

Dang Pjackso! Thanks for the great intel. I really appreciate the detail. I may do what you say with a small section of road and see how it goes. Luckily for me I manage an equipment rental location so can bring gear home when needed. Skid steers, double drum rollers, mini excavators, etc.

What the heck?!?! You've been holding out vital info from us.
Given you essentially have almost free access to all the required equipment - then heck yeah do it yourself.

Grab some buddies and get after it!