I'd definitely check for proper voltage when powered on and in the 'dim' state. I've also seen cheap built LEDs put quite a bit of electrical noise on the power line which causes all kinds of issues with other LED fixtures.
Very good comments that are spot on. You can read voltage, but the amperage/current with a meter will show a loss. I've seen the load side of fuses in industrial environments almost red hot because of conductivity issues without blowing the fuse. That issue can generate extremely high temps that causes fires.To add to this...
To add to DH's post.
This is a good simple test but not absolute.
If one of the terminations is not good but still making some connection you could be getting a good reading but still not able to deliver any current. The neutral (grounded conductor) only carries the unbalanced load. depending on what connections are intact and what is running on the the other phase then little to no current could be flowing thru that neutral. It would be really sketchy just like what you mention when the grinder comes on. Be warned. depending on what you turn on and the impedance between phases you could get some really nasty voltage spikes on the entire system. the poor neutral is also probably getting really crunchy too. Could be a fire hazard if you keep going.
Fluorescent lights as well. There are two types of transformers for fluorescent lighting systems. One is industrial designed for high ceilings and the other is home units. The difference is that the industrial isn't shielded for RF.I'd definitely check for proper voltage when powered on and in the 'dim' state. I've also seen cheap built LEDs put quite a bit of electrical noise on the power line which causes all kinds of issues with other LED fixtures.
Yeppers. Most electricians don’t even know about this really. If someone wants to learn a little more you could google “fcc part 15 class a vs b”Fluorescent lights as well. There are two types of transformers for fluorescent lighting systems. One is industrial designed for high ceilings and the other is home units. The difference is that the industrial isn't shielded for RF.
If you buy the industrial and install them in your home shop, radio reception will be impossible. AM or FM.
The home models are shielded and will support radio's.
Don't ask me how I know this......
It's fortunate we have the internet now to answer that question. Back in the day nobody would have known that.Yeppers. Most electricians don’t even know about this really. If someone wants to learn a little more you could google “fcc part 15 class a vs b”
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