First AR build (looking for tips)

[Valhallajack]

wondering a few things.

1 where is the cheaper places to get parts.

A online from places like PSA Daily deals
B gunshow wait until November and go to the big show
C some local place that carries everything?
D don't worry about it and keep various 7.62x39?

2. is it better to just buy an upper and slap it on a lower,

3. just buy a compete gun say a colt match grade Hbar and call it good.

4. drink more beer while considering 1-3?

 

[Gideon]

1a. PSA has good deals but lower quality parts, good option for first build I suppose.
1b. Gun show might show you some options but might also overwhelm you, no good deals here.
1c. Someone local would make sure you get decent stuff and maybe show you a bit but cost a wee bit more.
1d. Nah everyone needs an AR. I shoot a lot of 7.62x39 but still have America's Rifle.

2. First time building I think a complete upper is best, not everyone has a vice/block and torque wrench for the upper to torque on the barrel nut, muzzle device, etc. Lower can be assembled sufficiently on any workbench with minimal tools.

3. Buying whole would save time, more of a budget/use question really.

4. Only if it's the good stuff.

If I were building my first AR, I'd just get a PSA Premium line or CHF build kit like this one:

https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-16-chf-mid-length-rifle-kit.html

Buy a stripped lower from a local shop, maybe find some mags and an optic on a PSA Daily Deal.

It ain't much, but it'd tide me over 'til I figured out what I really need.

 

[Revolvers4Life]

Do you have an AR currently? If not I would buy a good entry-mid level option (Colt, Smith and Wesson…) and find what you like and don’t like. My first AR was a Smith and Wesson M&P and I learned a lot from that on my preferences which helped me when I moved on to building.

If you already have one and are set on building, most difficult piece/one that requires the most tools is barrel/gas system… so maybe buy a completed upper if this is your first time. Then you can focus on the lower and all the other pieces.

You can jump straight in and do the whole thing if you want, but I’ve seen a lot of people do that, waste money, and end up with a poor functioning, not great AR

 

[mr ed]

Just remember buying a complete upper is a "flip of the coin"
99.9% have never been test fired, just assembled. " By trained monkeys or skilled craftsmen"??
You may still have to work the bugs out.

 

[golddigger14s]

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[dlbleak]

What do you plan to use it for and what is the budget?

 

[Valhallajack]

What do you plan to use it for and what is the budget?

hogs, dogs, shtf, teaching my kids to build, them to hunt with, investing

 

[Valhallajack]

BDR-1510 Advanced Match AR15/10 Drop-In Trigger & Anti-Walk Pins - FLAT

The BDR-1510 AMT™ Advanced Match 3.25 lb Single Stage Trigger from Black Dirt Rifleworks features exclusively designed sear engagement surfaces that virtually eliminate creep to deliver a perfectly crisp break shot after shot. A completely new internal geometry delivers insanely short reset and...

groundzeroprecision.com

good looking hanging down thingy and enjoy the discounts on all parts, it helps

 

[dlbleak]

Not sure where you are located but between Cops Gun Shop,Sooner State Pawn, Village Tactical, you could get everything you need locally.

 

[JEVapa]

No matter what parts you get, budget, midlevel, or high end, you need tools.
The right tools count before anything else. Cheap is ok, but not super-cheap stuff...if you go the extra mile to get extra cheap, you end up spending more money replacing your extra-cheap tools.
You also don't need to go buy the latest and greatest high dollar tools because JiffyJeff and TactiTom at KMAWAzoo Machine said so in a video. You don't need to buy an AR multitool for $$$$ because it looks like some sh*t a Klingon would use to dispatch his enemy.

Basic tools kits from Wheeler are great - they sell all this retail and have most tools you need including Action and vice blocks and punch kits.
Brass punch(s)
Torque wrench in ft/lbs - autostore or Wheeler
Torque wrench in in/lbs - autostore or Wheeler
Bench mounted vise
Either a barrel vise or an AR action rod**** - online
Pad...I use a 1'x2' chunk of leather
Bench block - buy one or make several out of hardwood
Small ball peen hammer (light weight)
If you don't get a brass hammer and plastic mallet in a Wheeler kit, you'll need both of these. Small-ish.

AR mutitool/AR Wrench - these are gonna be between $25 and $60ish. Anything above that isn't worth it unless you become a full time Armorer or you're whackin Romulans or other space creatures.

Additional equip plus advice:
Moly Disulfide grease. - autostore, it's called CV grease and one tube will last forever.
MolyDi goes on the barrel nut threads and the receiver extension threads (both Rifle and Carbine). Threadlocker does not go on these ever

You need to download a technical manual...like a 23&P. DL this: TM 9-1005-319-23&P
Link is below. It has all the info you need and then some. AR15.com is not the place for tech info but this manual is.

http://www.combatsimulations.com/ar15/manuals/tm%209-1005-319-23%26p.pdf

This one usually will start a never-ending argument but here goes:
Regarding receiver extensions:
A rifle extension is torqued to 35-39 ft/lbs. That is Foot Pounds
A Carbine extension "round plain nut" or "locking nut" (castle nut) is torqued to 38-42 in/lbs. New manual says 40+/-2in/lbs That is Inch Pounds, Not Foot Pounds. Then stake at two notches. The carbine extension doesn't require the strength of Zeus no matter what some guru on AR15.com says.

****don't torque things on a barrel using only an action block. You can get away with an MD and a crush washer but you start torquing an MD for a suppressor, you chance shearing the indexing pin or thrashing the notch in the receiver threads.

Absolutely NO RED THREADLOCKER, throw that crap in the trash. It has no place on an AR. Blue is good for gas block screws, rail screws, etc, green is good for Muzzle Devices.