My 7.5" Ruger Super Redhawk in .44 mag had some factory machining marks that still remain on the cylinder. They also almost buffed out the SN in the effort to smooth everything out, but I don't care.Very true about the up grades and Germany does build some great guns. The Smiths that I use shooting competition were from the performance center and all I did was lighten the trigger. They were super accurate right out of the box. The older ones I carried on duty were very well built also, I never had a bad one. What model did you have with bad machine marks?
Cuz Jerry shoots oneOk, why do 90+ % of competition shooters shooting revolvers choose S&W?
Not bad machine marks but bad machining.What model did you have with bad machine marks?
I am thinking about opening the forcing cones to 11 degree, is that going to solve the pinching problem that you are talking about?Not bad machine marks but bad machining.
I care less about stuff that needs buffed out for looks.
What i care about is that all the chambers are the same diameter not .0035" larger than others.
Then having the barrel smaller ID where it enters the frame was a big killer for me.
Both the New Model Super Blackhawk and this S&W Talo were pinched smaller inside the barrel where it entered the frame.
I shoot cast bullets 99% of the time and to have the bullet leave the cylinder in a .357" hole vs a .3605" hole makes a big accuracy difference then enter the barrel and pinch the cast bullet down to .355" or smaller for the first 1/2" to 1" after the forcing cone and then allow that bullet to travel into a larger hole after that just kills accuracy and leads up a barrel.
I bet this is why so many people quit shooting cast and went to jacketed bullets.
I did get better accuracy with jacketed when I tried them but after some work making all holes the same size and fire lapping the barrel to remove the pinch accuracy got much better.
Something I should have never had to do.
It is not that hard to measure a hole and check for a pinched off barrel.
But most people will buy anything with a name and reputation.
I do get that and I wish for it to work out but it has not for me.
Maybe I am too picky because I build engines and .0002 makes a big difference.
If i want .0015" on intake guide clearance and .0017" on exhaust I expect to get that.
I pay way more for a firearm and expect better. Not 3 and 1/2 thousands off.
I can almost live with 1/2 a thousandths off but even when I prep my rifle brass if I have a neck ID or OD that is 1/2 a thousandths off it is put in the space for fliers because that is what it will be.
Basically junk and needs to be fixed.
No it is after the forcing cone and extends about 1/4" past the frame.I am thinking about opening the forcing cones to 11 degree, is that going to solve the pinching problem that you are talking about?
I use the Taylor throat reamer. Cures the tight spot in the barrel.Not bad machine marks but bad machining.
I care less about stuff that needs buffed out for looks.
What i care about is that all the chambers are the same diameter not .0035" larger than others.
Then having the barrel smaller ID where it enters the frame was a big killer for me.
Both the New Model Super Blackhawk and this S&W Talo were pinched smaller inside the barrel where it entered the frame.
I shoot cast bullets 99% of the time and to have the bullet leave the cylinder in a .357" hole vs a .3605" hole makes a big accuracy difference then enter the barrel and pinch the cast bullet down to .355" or smaller for the first 1/2" to 1" after the forcing cone and then allow that bullet to travel into a larger hole after that just kills accuracy and leads up a barrel.
I bet this is why so many people quit shooting cast and went to jacketed bullets.
I did get better accuracy with jacketed when I tried them but after some work making all holes the same size and fire lapping the barrel to remove the pinch accuracy got much better.
Something I should have never had to do.
It is not that hard to measure a hole and check for a pinched off barrel.
But most people will buy anything with a name and reputation.
I do get that and I wish for it to work out but it has not for me.
Maybe I am too picky because I build engines and .0002 makes a big difference.
If i want .0015" on intake guide clearance and .0017" on exhaust I expect to get that.
I pay way more for a firearm and expect better. Not 3 and 1/2 thousands off.
I can almost live with 1/2 a thousandths off but even when I prep my rifle brass if I have a neck ID or OD that is 1/2 a thousandths off it is put in the space for fliers because that is what it will be.
Basically junk and needs to be fixed.
Why would they leave that there.... I guess to better frame the question. Is there a reason for the tight spot?I use the Taylor throat reamer. Cures the tight spot in the barrel.
Enter your email address to join: