I have a confession… not proud to admit it.

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dennishoddy

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Very true about the up grades and Germany does build some great guns. The Smiths that I use shooting competition were from the performance center and all I did was lighten the trigger. They were super accurate right out of the box. The older ones I carried on duty were very well built also, I never had a bad one. What model did you have with bad machine marks?
My 7.5" Ruger Super Redhawk in .44 mag had some factory machining marks that still remain on the cylinder. They also almost buffed out the SN in the effort to smooth everything out, but I don't care.
It was bought as a utility gun and not a show room piece to be carried in bear country.
 

swampratt

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What model did you have with bad machine marks?
Not bad machine marks but bad machining.
I care less about stuff that needs buffed out for looks.
What i care about is that all the chambers are the same diameter not .0035" larger than others.
Then having the barrel smaller ID where it enters the frame was a big killer for me.

Both the New Model Super Blackhawk and this S&W Talo were pinched smaller inside the barrel where it entered the frame.
I shoot cast bullets 99% of the time and to have the bullet leave the cylinder in a .357" hole vs a .3605" hole makes a big accuracy difference then enter the barrel and pinch the cast bullet down to .355" or smaller for the first 1/2" to 1" after the forcing cone and then allow that bullet to travel into a larger hole after that just kills accuracy and leads up a barrel.

I bet this is why so many people quit shooting cast and went to jacketed bullets.
I did get better accuracy with jacketed when I tried them but after some work making all holes the same size and fire lapping the barrel to remove the pinch accuracy got much better.

Something I should have never had to do.
It is not that hard to measure a hole and check for a pinched off barrel.
But most people will buy anything with a name and reputation.

I do get that and I wish for it to work out but it has not for me.

Maybe I am too picky because I build engines and .0002 makes a big difference.
If i want .0015" on intake guide clearance and .0017" on exhaust I expect to get that.

I pay way more for a firearm and expect better. Not 3 and 1/2 thousands off.
I can almost live with 1/2 a thousandths off but even when I prep my rifle brass if I have a neck ID or OD that is 1/2 a thousandths off it is put in the space for fliers because that is what it will be.

Basically junk and needs to be fixed.
 

swampratt

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OH and I have had a Pinto and it was an excellent vehicle.
Out ran many 350" chevy engines and got 22 MPG hot rodding around.

Change a timing belt with a couple hand tools in 30 minutes or less and not need to pull the balancer.
 

Two Gun Warrior

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Not bad machine marks but bad machining.
I care less about stuff that needs buffed out for looks.
What i care about is that all the chambers are the same diameter not .0035" larger than others.
Then having the barrel smaller ID where it enters the frame was a big killer for me.

Both the New Model Super Blackhawk and this S&W Talo were pinched smaller inside the barrel where it entered the frame.
I shoot cast bullets 99% of the time and to have the bullet leave the cylinder in a .357" hole vs a .3605" hole makes a big accuracy difference then enter the barrel and pinch the cast bullet down to .355" or smaller for the first 1/2" to 1" after the forcing cone and then allow that bullet to travel into a larger hole after that just kills accuracy and leads up a barrel.

I bet this is why so many people quit shooting cast and went to jacketed bullets.
I did get better accuracy with jacketed when I tried them but after some work making all holes the same size and fire lapping the barrel to remove the pinch accuracy got much better.

Something I should have never had to do.
It is not that hard to measure a hole and check for a pinched off barrel.
But most people will buy anything with a name and reputation.

I do get that and I wish for it to work out but it has not for me.

Maybe I am too picky because I build engines and .0002 makes a big difference.
If i want .0015" on intake guide clearance and .0017" on exhaust I expect to get that.

I pay way more for a firearm and expect better. Not 3 and 1/2 thousands off.
I can almost live with 1/2 a thousandths off but even when I prep my rifle brass if I have a neck ID or OD that is 1/2 a thousandths off it is put in the space for fliers because that is what it will be.

Basically junk and needs to be fixed.
I am thinking about opening the forcing cones to 11 degree, is that going to solve the pinching problem that you are talking about?
 

swampratt

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I am thinking about opening the forcing cones to 11 degree, is that going to solve the pinching problem that you are talking about?
No it is after the forcing cone and extends about 1/4" past the frame.
Basically where the barrel is screwed into the frame.

When i send a soft lead slug down the barrel muzzle end first and lots of lube in the barrel and on my lead the muzzle end is tight for the first push until the lead gets swaged down by the barrel.
It gets easier to push now until I get just mm from the frame then it gets hard to push that lead slug so hard in fact I can no longer push it by hand with my wooden dowel rod.

Basically stuck.
I have to get a small hammer and tap tap tap the dowel rod to get the lead to go that last 1" or so.
Then it drops out of the forcing cone area.

Now I take that slug that is now form fit and line it back up with the rifling at the muzzle and push it through again.
SO much easier to push through right up to the frame area and then i need to apply more force to get through.

So then i begin fire lapping the barrel.

6 rounds and then clean the barrel and push that slug through again.
I keep doing the fire lapping until that slug has the same tension at the frame junction as the rest of the barrel.
I then make a new slug for the barrel and push it through and see what I get.

Took just about 75 rounds of fire lapping bullets to do the 357 TALO.
Just about 1/2 that for the Ruger 357

Hope that explains it a bit better.
 

cstan

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Not bad machine marks but bad machining.
I care less about stuff that needs buffed out for looks.
What i care about is that all the chambers are the same diameter not .0035" larger than others.
Then having the barrel smaller ID where it enters the frame was a big killer for me.

Both the New Model Super Blackhawk and this S&W Talo were pinched smaller inside the barrel where it entered the frame.
I shoot cast bullets 99% of the time and to have the bullet leave the cylinder in a .357" hole vs a .3605" hole makes a big accuracy difference then enter the barrel and pinch the cast bullet down to .355" or smaller for the first 1/2" to 1" after the forcing cone and then allow that bullet to travel into a larger hole after that just kills accuracy and leads up a barrel.

I bet this is why so many people quit shooting cast and went to jacketed bullets.
I did get better accuracy with jacketed when I tried them but after some work making all holes the same size and fire lapping the barrel to remove the pinch accuracy got much better.

Something I should have never had to do.
It is not that hard to measure a hole and check for a pinched off barrel.
But most people will buy anything with a name and reputation.

I do get that and I wish for it to work out but it has not for me.

Maybe I am too picky because I build engines and .0002 makes a big difference.
If i want .0015" on intake guide clearance and .0017" on exhaust I expect to get that.

I pay way more for a firearm and expect better. Not 3 and 1/2 thousands off.
I can almost live with 1/2 a thousandths off but even when I prep my rifle brass if I have a neck ID or OD that is 1/2 a thousandths off it is put in the space for fliers because that is what it will be.

Basically junk and needs to be fixed.
I use the Taylor throat reamer. Cures the tight spot in the barrel.
 

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