Little screws with loctite

[Sanford]

Soldering iron with tip pressed to the screw is what I do.

No workie on this one. Screw is through the front part of a receiver and bottomed out on the barrel extension, making for a big honkin' heat sink. Electric irons never got the surrounding metal beyond slightly warm to the touch.

I have had great success with using a nail heated to glowing red. I have even ground down the tip of the nail to make it flat then heated it glowing red hot and hold on the screw. I have only one time had to heat the nail more than once. It simply works.

I think I'm going to find a nail and file it to fit the socket head, then torch the opposite end of the nail for a bit - seems like the best possibility for getting enough heat transfer where I want it and not too much too far beyond.

 

[Profreedomokie]

I gotta go with Dennis on this one. I use all grades of Loctite at work and never need heat to break loose blue.

 

[Mr.Glock]

Unless a guy can see color on little screws that don't budge, it is best to err on the side of heat. There are gooses out there that will put stuff together with red on everything.

 

[dennishoddy]

Unless a guy can see color on little screws that don't budge, it is best to err on the side of heat. There are gooses out there that will put stuff together with red on everything.

And 99% of the people applying any Loctite product put on too much causing a lot of the issues.

On a 5-40 gun screw thread, a spot at the tip of the screw, the size of a pin head is all needed to secure the screw. Anymore is asking for trouble down the road.

When I worked at a company that built vibrasize trucks for oil exploration that vibrated hard enough to shake the ground, a 2" bolt only needed a spot of the blue about the size of a nickel on one side. Two years later that truck would come in for a refurb, and all the fasteners were still secure.

 

[Buzzdraw]

Soldering iron with tip pressed to the screw is what I do.

I don't remember the last time I had to use anything other than a properly fitting tool to deal with blue Lok-Tite. Usually the same properly fitting tool works with red, if a judiciously greater amount of force (NOT too much) is applied. If the fitting doesn't move next I go to a sharp pointed electric soldiering iron. Has done the trick every time.

If I do not know if Loc-Tite is present and I encounter a bit of resistance I will drip in a bit of Kroil. Tap-tap-tap, let it sit and often even rusty fittings turn loose.

"Properly fitting tool" does NOT mean a cabinet screwdriver or the like. Hard to beat the precision screwdriver tip sets under the Brownell label. Chapman is good stuff too. Even a worn-tip Allen can get you in trouble; check the tip on it periodically.

 

[Super Dave]

Shouldn't need it for blue, but if you do...

 

[Chard]

This is all I use on firearms and never needed heat to remove anything. Suspect it is overuse of the amount of Loctite.