Load development for the individual firearm, 6.5 Creedmoor

[thor447]

My bad, it is a Ruger American. 22" barrel, threaded for a can. I took it apart today, cleaned up everything and got it lubed. Nice adjustable trigger.
Been scouring the web for brass and bullets. Found Lapua 108 grain HPBT bullets. That was it. No brass to be found.
I did notice there was large primer pockets and small primer pockets when looking for brass. I'm well into the thousands of small rifle primers, as well as decent stock of large.
Anyone notice any difference in the ignition or performance between the two? I'll probably be using H4350 or Varget powder.

I've read some of the bench rest / PRS shooters tend to lean towards the SRP's in 6.5CM. I've tried large and small, and with my limited ability, I've seen zero difference between the two. I'm not running a full blown PRS rig though, so I suppose when fractions of an inch matter at a thousand yards, those SRP's may make it worth it. My setup will ring steel all day at 1300 yards if I can do my part. I've been running Lapua brass with LRP's. Started out and had good results with Hornady brass, but the Lapua really tightened up the numbers so I've transitioned all my 6.5CM brass. I saw some LRP Lapua brass available somewhere the other day, but I can't find it now. Powder Valley and Midway both show SRP 6.5CM Lapua brass in stock currently. It's expensive, probably $25 per box higher than when I bought mine, but it is out there. Best of luck.

 

[dlbleak]

A buddy actually picked up some brass the other day at cabelas. Our academy has had 130 and 140 projos in stock regularly also.

 

[Prairie Traveler]

Hey Schoonoe: Basic question here; what is your goal for these two rifles? Are you interested in Looong range accuracy, as in targets, gongs, or are you going to hunt game with them? Although both require "good" MOA, putting meat on the table, or dispatching prairie dogs, at 300yds, is a little different. Also, time between shots can make a difference. I've shot a 6mm Rem. on a '96 Mauser for years, mostly at varmints. Basic reloading techniques are about the same. For my use, factory brass has been a luxury, many of my rounds started out as mil 30-06 LC brass. Careful forming and prep work are a must, with either. As for annealing, I've always done it "old school", in a pan of cold water, at least half way up the body, heat the necks to almost cheery red, and then dump them over in the water. Works for me. I never outside turn case necks. I've found better consistency inside reaming them. the case is fully supported by the die, and reaming is done by hand. (a very good machinist/gunsmith schooled me on technique) Solvent or soap and water cleaning follows. After all of this verbiage, there is one more [I believe] important step: DO THINGS THE BEST WAY YOU KNOW HOW, and PAY ATTENTION! Read as much as you can, and adjust as necessary. And don't forget to have a little fun while you're at it!

 

[cdschoonie]

Hey Schoonoe: Basic question here; what is your goal for these two rifles? Are you interested in Looong range accuracy, as in targets, gongs, or are you going to hunt game with them? Although both require "good" MOA, putting meat on the table, or dispatching prairie dogs, at 300yds, is a little different. Also, time between shots can make a difference. I've shot a 6mm Rem. on a '96 Mauser for years, mostly at varmints. Basic reloading techniques are about the same. For my use, factory brass has been a luxury, many of my rounds started out as mil 30-06 LC brass. Careful forming and prep work are a must, with either. As for annealing, I've always done it "old school", in a pan of cold water, at least half way up the body, heat the necks to almost cheery red, and then dump them over in the water. Works for me. I never outside turn case necks. I've found better consistency inside reaming them. the case is fully supported by the die, and reaming is done by hand. (a very good machinist/gunsmith schooled me on technique) Solvent or soap and water cleaning follows. After all of this verbiage, there is one more [I believe] important step: DO THINGS THE BEST WAY YOU KNOW HOW, and PAY ATTENTION! Read as much as you can, and adjust as necessary. And don't forget to have a little fun while you're at it!

The fun part is first and foremost. As for the purpose of them, if I were looking for competition accuracy, I would start with a precision rifle. Our purpose is to get the best accuracy out of them, as possible, but not worry about spending extra money on Lapua, etc., brass. Also I want to work on consistency by way of case length, shoulder bump, headspace, seating depth, etc.. In other words, play the game with what I have and get the most out of it.
We can currently shoot 3/4” groups at 100, 11/2” at 200 with factory ammo. There’s no doubt in my mind, I can dial that down tighter, so that’s my goal. I’m currently reading and studying as I always have, it’s just a matter of somehow saving enough cash to get a decent trimmer, as well as comparator tools to help me get more consistent cases, seating, and the like.

To me, although I can’t afford top notch tools, the challenge of getting the best and the most, out of every case and bullet fired, is the fun part. Since I don’t know anyone, and can’t afford a hunting lease, honestly I’m not a good enough hunter to find them in public lands. The real truth of our hunting trips will come around maybe once in 10 years. Case in point I have been deer hunting once since 1999, that was the 2020 season when we went to the Black Kettle WMA. Suffice to say, I really don’t expect to go hunting more than 1 or 2 more times in my life. So, I’m forced to do basically targets, but if the opportunity arises, I’d like to at least know I could drop one.

 

[dennishoddy]

I've read some of the bench rest / PRS shooters tend to lean towards the SRP's in 6.5CM. I've tried large and small, and with my limited ability, I've seen zero difference between the two. I'm not running a full blown PRS rig though, so I suppose when fractions of an inch matter at a thousand yards, those SRP's may make it worth it. My setup will ring steel all day at 1300 yards if I can do my part. I've been running Lapua brass with LRP's. Started out and had good results with Hornady brass, but the Lapua really tightened up the numbers so I've transitioned all my 6.5CM brass. I saw some LRP Lapua brass available somewhere the other day, but I can't find it now. Powder Valley and Midway both show SRP 6.5CM Lapua brass in stock currently. It's expensive, probably $25 per box higher than when I bought mine, but it is out there. Best of luck.

My Sig Saur brass came in today and it's LRP. I have a couple thousand of those so it's time to start working on a load.

 

[Prairie Traveler]

Sometimes you can find really "good" measuring tools, dial indicators ect. at local pawn shops. As a 'retired' aircraft mech. I have saved Mucho bucks by shopping them.

 

[cdschoonie]

Been a while since I’ve been active on-site. The past few months have been crazy (to say the least) the last few months at work. I want to keep my thread alive, so thought I’d to base. While I’ve had zero time on the range, heck I haven’t even been in the reloading room since the end of April, I was able to add to my powder and other component supplies. I was also able to get a Hornady Cam Lock Trimmer, a new powder measure, and added a Lyman 2500 Tumbler.
Since I had all my surgeries, in the last couple years, I was forced to find a new career path that didn’t require any type of physical labor. I am now working as the Asst Mgr at our local hotel. The pay isn’t great, but turns out you occasionally get some good tips. That has allowed me to get the extra reloading goodies.
So as soon as things slow down a bit, as well as the intense hot weather backs down, I’ll be able to get back at my load development research.