Need a carbine buffer locally

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tul9033

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It was nearly impossible finding a stripped barrel that was drilled, guess that's why the call em stripped!.
I couldn't pass up the DD Carbine barrel, got mine for $145. Used the DD clamp on gas block, I hope it holds up. It's as tight as I could get it and lock tighted in place.

I'll bet that cures it! If it were me, once I had it function tested to ensure reliability, I'd have the block and barrel drilled and pinned so you never have to worry about it moving on you.
 
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It was nearly impossible finding a stripped barrel that was drilled, guess that's why the call em stripped!.
I couldn't pass up the DD Carbine barrel, got mine for $145. Used the DD clamp on gas block, I hope it holds up. It's as tight as I could get it and lock tighted in place.

From what I've been reading lately it's best to drill and pin each block and barrel together as one unit, as opposed to drilling and pinning a block to a pre-drilled barrel. Lots of guys are using a single pin for clamp or set screw blocks as opposed to the double pinned FSB types.

If you decide not to pin it, I'd at least stake those screws as opposed ot relying strictly on torque and thread locker in consideration of barrel heat and vibration.
 

tul9033

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Wanted to follow this up. Took the rifle to the range today and ran 100 rds through it flawlessly with the H buffer. Looks like the gas block hole misalignment was the culprit.
Thanks guys
 

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