And post target pics, right?
On annealing if you have not done it yet.
You can use a black sharpie brand permanent marker and make a line on the case from shoulder to case mouth.
As you spin it in the flame you can watch the line disappear. like Tempilaq.
After you do a couple you will get the hang of it.
I anneal then brush the inside of the case with bore brush and then resize the case.
This is a great time to feel the surface texture inside the case neck before and after brushing.
You can use a black sharpie brand permanent marker and make a line on the case from shoulder to case mouth.
As you spin it in the flame you can watch the line disappear. like Tempilaq.
After you do a couple you will get the hang of it.
I anneal then brush the inside of the case with bore brush and then resize the case.
This is a great time to feel the surface texture inside the case neck before and after brushing.
Something else I have thought about I will toss in the mix.
I have pulled bullets from cases and they are all scratched up.. deep scratches in the jackets.
This was factory ammo.
I pull bullets from my brushed cases and no scratches at all on the jackets.. they look like a new bullet.
I wonder how much copper fouling a scratched up bullet will make vs one that is smooth.
Bullet seating forces are very even with a brushed case neck vs a batch of cases that were not brushed.
One reason I brush all mine now.
Maybe if I had a die that did not pull a sizer through the neck I would not need to brush.
I polish my expanders with 1500 sandpaper and then 2000 grit and then a machine glaze polish.
Overkill.. maybe same steps i do for paint on a car.. make it shiny.
Cases size much easier.
Addicting hobby this hand loading of ammo.
I have pulled bullets from cases and they are all scratched up.. deep scratches in the jackets.
This was factory ammo.
I pull bullets from my brushed cases and no scratches at all on the jackets.. they look like a new bullet.
I wonder how much copper fouling a scratched up bullet will make vs one that is smooth.
Bullet seating forces are very even with a brushed case neck vs a batch of cases that were not brushed.
One reason I brush all mine now.
Maybe if I had a die that did not pull a sizer through the neck I would not need to brush.
I polish my expanders with 1500 sandpaper and then 2000 grit and then a machine glaze polish.
Overkill.. maybe same steps i do for paint on a car.. make it shiny.
Cases size much easier.
Addicting hobby this hand loading of ammo.
Here are the loads I made up. 10 rounds each.
All PPU cases. Cases for 1 and 2 were resized, primer removed, chamfered, neck smoothed with steel wool, weighed without primer and measured case length. I weighed each bullet and loaded exact weight only. Case 3 was the same except primer was not removed, bullets and cases not measured/weighed. Powder was Alliant 2400, 17.5 grains. Cases for 4 and 5 Resized only. Pulled bullet, reduced powder load and reassemble. Overall length of all rounds was 3.037
1. Sierra ProHunter 180 Spritzer, .308. Cases weighed from 150.3 – 152.1. Length was 2.1080 – 2.1105. Put 2 SR1 targets stacked out at 100yds. 6 O’clock hold on bottom target. Shot 1 and 2, nothing on paper, move hold to top target, shot 3, nothing on paper. Move target to 50 yds, hold on top target, shot 4, nothing on paper. WTH. I don’t suck that bad. I checked front site, thought I might have knocked it but it looked fine. Then I looked at the 2 barrel bands and decided to loosen them. Hold on top target and hit bottom target. Finally on paper sort of. Kept hold with no adjustments to get group. FPS avg 1511, SD 36.06, Spread 1.48 based on 6 shots.
Dont know why pics rotated.
#1
2. Sierra Matchking 168 HPBT .308. Cases weighed from 148.8 – 152.1. Length was 2.1105 – 2.1130. 50 yds, hold top target, 1st shot 7 O’clock 10 ring bottom target. Raise rear sight 1 notch. 2nd shot, 12 O’clock 8 ring bottom target. Raise rear sight 1 notch, 3rd shot, 6 O’clock 6 ring top target, finally! Raise rear sight 1 notch, 12 O’clock 7 ring. Finished rounds for group. FPS avg 1572, SD 35.39, group 1.34 based on 7 shots
#2
3. Used Matchline factory bullet, 182gn, and primer. Adjusted sight back just to see where it would hit. 2 shots bottom target. Put sight back to 4 notches. 8 shots 11 O’clockish 8 and 7 ring.
#3
4. Reduced load 10% to 44 grains. 2nd shot did not go off even though primer did and bullet was stuck in barrel. Not good. Pushed bullet out and shot 3 more. Let’s just say it sucked even at 50yds. Took 5 shots at 100 yd target. Rear sight back down, hold on bottom target. 4 out of five in black on top target but looked like a shotgun hit it. Recoil was less but not going to pursue this. FPS avg 2382, SD 75.01.
5. Reduced load 20% to 39.5 grains. 1st shot did just like number 2 on last set. Decided to stop.
I used RCBS case slick on a paper towel to lube cases 3, 4 and 5. I don’t know if any got in the case or not but some of the powder looked partially burnt and I had no issues with #3. Going to pull the other bullets, dump the powder and remove factory primers. Not willing to risk it. Anyway, I have a good group that I just need to fine tune to get where I want to hit at 100yds. Could be front sight, powder charge or both.
Well, I will keep on experimenting until I get it right. Thanks for all the tips.
All PPU cases. Cases for 1 and 2 were resized, primer removed, chamfered, neck smoothed with steel wool, weighed without primer and measured case length. I weighed each bullet and loaded exact weight only. Case 3 was the same except primer was not removed, bullets and cases not measured/weighed. Powder was Alliant 2400, 17.5 grains. Cases for 4 and 5 Resized only. Pulled bullet, reduced powder load and reassemble. Overall length of all rounds was 3.037
1. Sierra ProHunter 180 Spritzer, .308. Cases weighed from 150.3 – 152.1. Length was 2.1080 – 2.1105. Put 2 SR1 targets stacked out at 100yds. 6 O’clock hold on bottom target. Shot 1 and 2, nothing on paper, move hold to top target, shot 3, nothing on paper. Move target to 50 yds, hold on top target, shot 4, nothing on paper. WTH. I don’t suck that bad. I checked front site, thought I might have knocked it but it looked fine. Then I looked at the 2 barrel bands and decided to loosen them. Hold on top target and hit bottom target. Finally on paper sort of. Kept hold with no adjustments to get group. FPS avg 1511, SD 36.06, Spread 1.48 based on 6 shots.
Dont know why pics rotated.
#1
2. Sierra Matchking 168 HPBT .308. Cases weighed from 148.8 – 152.1. Length was 2.1105 – 2.1130. 50 yds, hold top target, 1st shot 7 O’clock 10 ring bottom target. Raise rear sight 1 notch. 2nd shot, 12 O’clock 8 ring bottom target. Raise rear sight 1 notch, 3rd shot, 6 O’clock 6 ring top target, finally! Raise rear sight 1 notch, 12 O’clock 7 ring. Finished rounds for group. FPS avg 1572, SD 35.39, group 1.34 based on 7 shots
#2
3. Used Matchline factory bullet, 182gn, and primer. Adjusted sight back just to see where it would hit. 2 shots bottom target. Put sight back to 4 notches. 8 shots 11 O’clockish 8 and 7 ring.
#3
4. Reduced load 10% to 44 grains. 2nd shot did not go off even though primer did and bullet was stuck in barrel. Not good. Pushed bullet out and shot 3 more. Let’s just say it sucked even at 50yds. Took 5 shots at 100 yd target. Rear sight back down, hold on bottom target. 4 out of five in black on top target but looked like a shotgun hit it. Recoil was less but not going to pursue this. FPS avg 2382, SD 75.01.
5. Reduced load 20% to 39.5 grains. 1st shot did just like number 2 on last set. Decided to stop.
I used RCBS case slick on a paper towel to lube cases 3, 4 and 5. I don’t know if any got in the case or not but some of the powder looked partially burnt and I had no issues with #3. Going to pull the other bullets, dump the powder and remove factory primers. Not willing to risk it. Anyway, I have a good group that I just need to fine tune to get where I want to hit at 100yds. Could be front sight, powder charge or both.
Well, I will keep on experimenting until I get it right. Thanks for all the tips.
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Well, it looks like you're getting some good groups with the 17.5/2400 load. If those groups are at 100 yds, you will definitely be in the running at the match (if it's not cancelled).
I don't understand the ignition problems with the reduced factory powder loads. I can't recall ever having that problem with the small reductions you report.
I wonder what's going on there ?
I don't understand the ignition problems with the reduced factory powder loads. I can't recall ever having that problem with the small reductions you report.
I wonder what's going on there ?
Dumpstick, The targets I posted are at 50. I think I need to move the front sight a little and then I will move to 100 yds. Hopefully the group wont open up much. Maybe the shots will also drop some. I don't want to lower the powder charge. If the shots do not drop then I will figure out what to do. Maybe even Kentucky wind it. Don't know about the ignition problem either. Shook the other rounds and the powder was loose. Not going to pursue the reduced loads. Will just pull bullets and remove primers and use the cases. Don't know if you can see the discolored powder. It looks like the primers were weak and just slightly burned some of it.
I think the mention of loosening the barrel bands is something to pursue.
I had a 1930 Izzy 91/30, since sold, with a similar problem. It was shooting so far right, that at 100 yds the front sight was adjusted so far as to be in danger of falling off the barrel.
I eventually figured out that the barrel was in a bind, and pulled the action from the stock. I could see marks on the barrel where it had been rubbing.
I took a dowel (actually a deepwell socket) of the correct diameter, wrapped sandpaper around it, and spent an hour doing some sanding.
Once I got the barrel where it wasn't being pushed around by the forearm or stock, the rifle started behaving better.
Something to look at, anyway.
I had a 1930 Izzy 91/30, since sold, with a similar problem. It was shooting so far right, that at 100 yds the front sight was adjusted so far as to be in danger of falling off the barrel.
I eventually figured out that the barrel was in a bind, and pulled the action from the stock. I could see marks on the barrel where it had been rubbing.
I took a dowel (actually a deepwell socket) of the correct diameter, wrapped sandpaper around it, and spent an hour doing some sanding.
Once I got the barrel where it wasn't being pushed around by the forearm or stock, the rifle started behaving better.
Something to look at, anyway.
