It does have a 10 amp fuse and I’m using a very very good 30amp power supply instead of the battery . I have a digital volt/ohm meter also. Colors of the wires, ground is back, power up is red and continuous power is yellow
Yep.Red and Yellow to 12v+ and Black to 12v-.
Unit should power on, if it doesn't then you have other issues.
Check all connections if it doesn't power on, have you crimped any extensions on? Use the dvm to check continuity and voltage to the connections.
I had an inline fuse that acted similar. I used to put it in a slot machine back in the day when I trained technicians to do electrical troubleshooting. Sometimes in a button panel harness, sometimes I'd swap it out in a trim lighting harness, etc. It stumped just about everyone, but I do remember one guy who had a background in electronics who knew how to use an Ohm meter and tracked it down pretty quickly by checking not only the fuse, but also checking power in and out as you stated above.I have had fuses that look good but are not good.
I have also had a fuse that checked good with an Ohm meter but put power to it and no flow from it.
It would get flow for a nano second and then that heat would bend the strip which was inside the fuse and when it bent it would not make contact with the end cap.
I loved that fuse.
I would install it and make other people trouble shoot the vehicle and even 2 weeks later they could not figure it out.
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