Rabbits for food

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BadgeBunny

Sharpshooter
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I started getting into this last year, I wanted something easy to maintain. I welded a frame so my cages hang (2 levels) with coroplast to redirect waste from lower level rabbits. It has been super easy to clean, just hose it off every now and then.
I built an automatic watering system using an old ice chest, in summer I just dump in some ice, and for winter a submersible heater & livewell pump circulating it so its freeze proof.

If that makes sense.

Oh man ... I need pics of that watering system ... Actually would you mind if I came and "toured your facility"?? I'll bring bread ... and cookies ... and whatever else I need to bring to bribe you! :D That sounds like a GREAT set-up ...
 

BadgeBunny

Sharpshooter
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OK, 120 ... sorry, I fell asleep on the sofa ... :disappoin

But here I am again ... and here are my links I was gonna post ...

http://www.homesteadingtoday.com/ These guys have a dedicated forum for rabbits. I'm not sure if I ever registered there. I just read ...

http://www.raisingrabbitsformeat.com/#

And, of course, MEN has a TON of info. Just search their site.

http://www.rudolphsrabbitranch.com/rrr.htm (I really like this one.)



BTW, seems like Mitch and the others answered all your questions. Got any more??

Oh, and one more thing -- although after our discussion yesterday it might seem kinda obvious :teehee: -- when you get ready to breed take the doe to the buck's pen. Never leave them unsupervised (it won't take long ... :teehee:) because the doe doesn't want the buck for some reason she will try to kill him if he "insists" ... You can increase your litter size by putting the doe back in with the buck 24 or 48 hours later as she will ovulate after copulation. I don't suggest you do this with a first time mother, but does who have shown that they are good moms and handle kits without wigging out on you are good candidates for this method of breeding.
 

BadgeBunny

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Great info. Thanks everyone.

BB, how do you know a doe is ready to be swooned by a buck?

You can tell by her ... uhmmm ... lady parts ... Gosh ... Man ... :lookaroun I sure hope no one gets offended. Here's my official warning. If the natural course of life (and how to make sure it happens effectively and efficiently in rabbits, in particular) upsets your delicate nature DO NOT LOOK AT the rest of my post ... One way to tell is to tap the doe on the butt and around her tail (if she is tame enough for you to mess with her). If she raises her butt up, she's ready. Another way is to actually pick her up, turn her over and take a look at her vulva. Ideally, you will need to do with with rabbits who are not ovulating so you will be able to tell the difference. If she's ready, it will be somewhat swollen and a bit brighter pink than normal ...

I had a guy tell me one time that he sexed his rabbits by "manually getting them excited" ... :shocked: Obviously the rabbits were not impressed because of the 4 does and 2 bucks he sold me, only 2 were actually does. :rolleyes2 Dumbass still owes me 2 does ... Funny, I don't really see him posting here much anymore ... :D

A couple more things: Do NOT breed your does until they are at least 6 months old. I'm like my dad ... I think that's a tad bit young myself -- especially if her birthday falls in the heat of summer or the dead of winter -- so my does usually get their first breeding around 7 to 8 months, depending on what season we are gonna be in when her litter is due ... Once a doe has a litter or two under her belt, weather is not so much of an issue but I have had to butcher does whose first litters were "busts" because they never figured out how to be good moms.

I think I mentioned above that you can cause a doe to ovulate by breeding her, so if you want a doe on a particular breeding schedule, just breed her, then 24 hours later breed her again. You can do another breeding 24 hours after that, especially if you are sure she was not ovulating on the first breeding, but I wouldn't do any more than breedings with the same doe outside a 72 hour time frame. It is possible for a rabbit to carry two sets of pregnancies ... one that is viable and one that will not be, when she goes into labor with the kits conceived from the first ovulation and breeding. So ... Breed 3 times in 72 hours at the most ... No more than that.

Finally, once you have your breeding does "up and running" so to speak, you need to keep them on a schedule. Sometimes I'll break if the weather is looking particularly harsh (especially in July, August and September) but no more than that.


Here are some YouTube posters that you really need to subscribe to:



[video]http://www.youtube.com/user/100rabbitdays/videos?sort=da&view=0&live_view=500&flow=list[/video]





is this because they are domesticated? and what are scours? :blush:

Runs ...

Here is a good article about introducing green grass to rabbits slowly to prevent the runs. (Diarrhea)

Where's your link?? :scratch:
 
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