Built 9 new meals for the 6.5cm this evening. My pencil is sharp, I've got plenty o targets and fresh batteries for the chronograph. Bring on the good chootin weather!
You've been busy, and those are pretty loads. I know that means nothing, but some shiny brass and fancy bullets just look good. Appear to be bergers?
I've got some nickel brass that shines up nicely topped with some nosler purple tipped bullets that make a pretty load.
Waiting on your range results.
I've got some nickel brass that shines up nicely topped with some nosler purple tipped bullets that make a pretty load.
Waiting on your range results.
I hope you share all your data. It would be a great help and appreciated. Jump and stabilization info welcomed as well as any info you're willing to share.
I agree on pretty not helping much on accuracy but if ya can make em pretty in a timely fashion, I figure, why not.
Two rows on left in blue tray are 140gr Match Monsters built by Nosler exclusively for Mid-South shooters supply. Those are the last 10 I have of the 20 bullet sample I got from them. They will only let you have 1 sample then you gotta buy 500. They are one of the cheapest bullets I've found and the 9 I shot last weekend grouped very well over three powders. 3 rows on right in blue tray are 140gr Barnes Match Burners. It's their maiden voyage. Bullets in red tray are Hornady 140 ELD Match. It's their maiden voyage also.
Match Monsters are taking a 10 thou jump. Match Burners are takin a 52 thou jump. Hornady ELD-M are jumpin 30 thou. I measured each bullet to my rifle and I'm starting as close to the lands as possible while still feeding reliably.
Thanks. I just starting and getting all the info I can prior to determining load/drop/etc. Powder and primer preferences and evals would be great. Sorry for all the questions but are you going to test the difference in cold temps vs warmer temps and the results?
This is way too much to ask but great full for any feedback.
My current gun likes the 140 grain. I'll be picking up the ruger precision 6.5 in a few days and it will be my long range gun going forward. Will have to do the workup on that guns ammo preference and performance but cutting some corners help.
I will keep notes on temperature.
I've been running CCI 200 LR primers so far. Here's how the Match monsters shot last weekend. I shot 3rounds of a specific load and had 3 different loads. This is 100yds. And not much of a cool down between these 9 shots. I was shooting from a bench with rifle laid in my homemade leather bull bag.
EDIT: I also should note, this is brass that has been fired as factory ammo once in my gun then FL resized. No factory crimp on these and been measuring 2 thou neck tension. If I can get great results with FL sizing and no crimp, I'll probably stay that route.
# FPS FT-LBS PF Powder
9 2441 0.00 0.00 Hunter
8 2466 0.00 0.00 Hunter
7 2451 0.00 0.00 Hunter
6 2622 0.00 0.00 H100v
5 2594 0.00 0.00 H100v
4 2618 0.00 0.00 H100v
3 2382 0.00 0.00 8208xbr
2 ERROR 2 8208xbr
1 ERROR 3 8208xbr
Had a couple errors lining up chronograph as you can tell. The 10 shot group mid/upper left was a ladder of 130gr Sierras.
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"Ready to collect mo data"
See if ya can get Larry and Curly to help. They're probably members here too...
See if ya can get Larry and Curly to help. They're probably members here too...
Looks like you are on track I only feel that you need not waste the shots at 100 yards.
You do all that work and limit a gun not meant for 100 yard shooting.
200 yards minimum.. 300 and you get into a deal where human error plays a big role.
Like holding right on target the heart beat the breathing the hold all plays huge parts when you reach out.
But 200 yards those still play a role but not to as much extreme. Not to mention Parallax or wind.
My great grouping loads do about .75" at 100 yards but I have shot my great grouping loads under 1" at 300.
They just do not shine at 100.
Maybe you feel fine shooting at 100 yards.. to me I feel like I am wasting my time and my ammo.
100 is good for initial testing to get scope on the mark or if you never plan on shooting past 100 then all is good.
You say you measured the jump to the lands.
In my guns there is a point where the lands start marking the bullets but that is NOT the point where the bullet will stop moving forward with light pressure.
That point of no more forward movement with light pressure can be .020-.030" deeper into the lands.
I see this when I smoke a bullet or color it with permanent marker and check seating depths.
Just wondering if your measurements are no more forward movement with light pressure or checked to where you just begin to touch the lands with a slight witness mark on the bullet.
You do all that work and limit a gun not meant for 100 yard shooting.
200 yards minimum.. 300 and you get into a deal where human error plays a big role.
Like holding right on target the heart beat the breathing the hold all plays huge parts when you reach out.
But 200 yards those still play a role but not to as much extreme. Not to mention Parallax or wind.
My great grouping loads do about .75" at 100 yards but I have shot my great grouping loads under 1" at 300.
They just do not shine at 100.
Maybe you feel fine shooting at 100 yards.. to me I feel like I am wasting my time and my ammo.
100 is good for initial testing to get scope on the mark or if you never plan on shooting past 100 then all is good.
You say you measured the jump to the lands.
In my guns there is a point where the lands start marking the bullets but that is NOT the point where the bullet will stop moving forward with light pressure.
That point of no more forward movement with light pressure can be .020-.030" deeper into the lands.
I see this when I smoke a bullet or color it with permanent marker and check seating depths.
Just wondering if your measurements are no more forward movement with light pressure or checked to where you just begin to touch the lands with a slight witness mark on the bullet.
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