Replacing Trailer Wood Deck...C Purlin Instead?

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MacFromOK

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NEVER use self tapping screws. Drill them all and use a carriage bolt and nut. Red locktight the nuts for permanent life.
I agree 100% on carriage head bolts & nuts, but I always used lock washers rather than loctite. They work just fine and will be a lot easier to remove when you (or the next guy) replaces the floor again. Also easier to tighten if/when the heads work down into the wood. ;)

:drunk2:
 

CHenry

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I agree 100% on carriage head bolts & nuts, but I always used lock washers rather than loctite. They work just fine and will be a lot easier to remove when you (or the next guy) replaces the floor again. Also easier to tighten if/when the heads work down into the wood. ;)

:drunk2:
Lock washers require pressure and as that new wood shrinks in a years time he;ll have to be sure and go under and re torque all of em. Red locktick isnt THAT difficult to get loose at all especially if he applys a propane torch to each one for 15 seconds. Spin em right off. Or use Blue for easier removal.
 

MacFromOK

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Lock washers require pressure and as that new wood shrinks in a years time he;ll have to be sure and go under and re torque all of em. Red locktick isnt THAT difficult to get loose at all especially if he applys a propane torch to each one for 15 seconds. Spin em right off. Or use Blue for easier removal.
I floored my 16ft tongue-pull in the early '90s (treated 2x12s) and never had to retighten 'em during the 7-8 years I used it before my ticker got so bad. Hauled a 65hp tractor with attached equipment on it quite a bit.

Needs re-flooring now, of course... but I can't even do enough to need a trailer anymore. :/
 

Perplexed

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Bear Roper

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Got a 16 foot tongue pull trailer with tandem 6,000 lb axles that I had 3" c perlins put in. Haul a J.D. 2555 cab tractor with frontend loader, not real often, but had no problems. You can get bed liner paint or just mix some sand in your paint for traction.
 

Uncle Meat

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What are yall's thoughts on this idea? I have a really nice 16'x6'5" trailer with tandem 5k axles that the wood is rotten on. I dont mind going back with treated lumber but my father n law suggested I look into C purlin instead and it sounds like it might work. I found this thread HERE where a guy did it and claims it has held up well. I will use this trailer to haul a 7,000# skid steer + 2,000# in attachments.

good idea or bad and why? anyone that deals in metal have an idea on the cost to go with c purlin and what gauge would be needed?

thanks.
Something else you might think about:

With 5.2k axles, your GVWR is 10.4K. That's what you can put on your axles.
Your trailer weighs around 1.7k? Maybe more?
That would mean your payload is around 8.7k.

If your equipment weighs combined 9k, you're kinda at your payload limit for 5.2k axles.
And I realize I'm guessing at your trailer's weight but that's what I've seen.
So please keep a good eye on tires and bearings!

I get to deal with this on a daily basis.

Also, I've had good luck with self tapping screws.
Really haven't had a back-out problem.
I really hate removing rusted nuts and bolts.
But nothing wrong with going that route either.

As I said, just something to think about.
 

TerryMiller

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Gotcha thanks I’ll use carriage bolts.

Maybe I'm missing something, but if one is using wood and carriage bolts, what is holding the square shoulder of the carriage bolt while one tightens the nut? Being wood, wouldn't that shoulder just turn in the wood, gouging it out and not letting one tighten the bolt?
 

Uncle Meat

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Maybe I'm missing something, but if one is using wood and carriage bolts, what is holding the square shoulder of the carriage bolt while one tightens the nut? Being wood, wouldn't that shoulder just turn in the wood, gouging it out and not letting one tighten the bolt?
I believe the square shoulder kinda seats itself as it tightens into the wood.
 

dennishoddy

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What are yall's thoughts on this idea? I have a really nice 16'x6'5" trailer with tandem 5k axles that the wood is rotten on. I dont mind going back with treated lumber but my father n law suggested I look into C purlin instead and it sounds like it might work. I found this thread HERE where a guy did it and claims it has held up well. I will use this trailer to haul a 7,000# skid steer + 2,000# in attachments.

good idea or bad and why? anyone that deals in metal have an idea on the cost to go with c purlin and what gauge would be needed?

thanks.
I used the 5/4 treated deck boards when I redecked my 16' tandem trailer. Once the old deck was removed, I did go in and weld some additional supports across the frame with some 1 1/2" angle iron.
I carry a tractor loaded with a full 100 gallon spray rig on it all the time and have never had an issue with the boards not being able to take the weight.
At one time I tried to justify the plastic 5/4 deck boards as they would last forever, but $40 each for a 16 footer x how many it would take to finish the job was more than I wanted to pay.
Used self tappers 5 years ago and never had to retighten, but I did let the treated wood sit for a month in the shop so air could circulate around it to dry out before installing the floor to get the shrinkage issue taken care of.
 
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MacFromOK

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Maybe I'm missing something, but if one is using wood and carriage bolts, what is holding the square shoulder of the carriage bolt while one tightens the nut? Being wood, wouldn't that shoulder just turn in the wood, gouging it out and not letting one tighten the bolt?
I believe the square shoulder kinda seats itself as it tightens into the wood.
This. You drill the holes in the wood for the threaded bolt size (from underneath the trailer though the frame holes, so they align), not the square shoulder size.
:drunk2:
 

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