Seating primers

[okietom]

I want the free reloading setup.

I have deprimed live primers and never had one go off. That does not say it won't happen. You should always wear safety glasses when reloading.

Try firing the primers and you will see if there is a problem with them. You should not try and use them after you punch them out so you won't be wasting anything by snapping them. It would also reduce the risk of setting one off.

 

[okietom]

Uniforming your primer pockets would be good. I have uniformed flash holes. Doing both would be better.

 

[criticalbass]

Yes there is, all of the loading tool companys have one. Primer pocket cleaner, large on one end small on the other. Hand opreated or I use a cordless drill.

Me too, and a heavy leather glove to hold the brass. Too easy to make a blood donation otherwise. The major companies make brushes which will screw into a handle for hand cleaning of pockets. These chuck nicely in a cordless drill.

I strongly suspect the gun. Factory ammo usually uses softer primers than primers intended for the reloader.

If using Federal primers (I think they are about the softest) solves the problem, I recommend just doing that since this particular gun is probably never going to be in a self defense situation.

The instructions for my Lee primer seating tool go to great lengths to stress not using Federal primers. I still do, but only ten at a time and with personal protective equipment in a non domestic setting (back patio with wife and dogs in the house). I presume the softness of the Federals has resulted in some of them going off when seated. Primers are unlikely to set off their neighbors when lying in the same plane. Stacked in a tube, as some systems do, is a whole different deal. Think tiny frag grenade.

 

[SoonerCowboy]

It should never take any force to seat a primer
It should be all most effortles.

Coming from a 18 yr reloader

 

[Wheel Gun]

Update: Well, through trial and error, I've not solved the problem, but I may be zeroing in on it. I've become an expert on primer pocket cleaning, which is something that I've not really done before. I was back at the range this morning with a batch of 18 rounds. About a third of them took a second hammer strike to go off, but they all did go off this time.

I think my problem may be the gun. I had a trigger job done on it back in April and since then I've only shot rimfire (in IHMSA small bore competition). The trigger was really improved and never missed a beat--on rimfire. This is the first time that I've shot centerfire since I've had the trigger pull smoothed and lightened. I wonder if I'm now just not striking the primer as hard as I did pre-trigger job.

I loaded up a half-dozen rounds for a hog hunt this weekend and am confident that each would go off with two trigger pulls--probably with only one. With this batch, I've also changed from Winchester primers to CCI (couldn't hurt). But, when I get back, I'm going to take it back to the gunsmith and ask about hammer spring options.

 

[Rod Snell]

I've also changed from Winchester primers to CCI (couldn't hurt).

Yes it can hurt if your hammer force is marginal.
Federal primers are the softest, CCI are the hardest. Win is in between.
Every competition revolver shooter with a lightened mainspring knows to use Federal primers only.

 

[Wheel Gun]

CCI are the hardest.

Good info there. I think I'll hunt around for some Federal primers that are in stock.

Okay. I called all over OKC and can't find anyone with Federals. No H&H, no Bass Pro, no Heartland. Not even my gun guy down the street. I guess I'll load a new batch with the Winchesters.

 

[okietom]

I put a bullseye spring kit in my Contender in the early eighties. I love my trigger pull and have had no problems since.

I think that I put three springs in it.

If you could go back to the factory hammer spring it might help. Your smith may know.

 

[dennishoddy]

I've been watching this thread.
Most folks that go to custom triggers and lighter springs bob the hammer to make it close faster. You can do it your self with a hacksaw, or buy the JP speed hammer. I recommend doing it your self if your confident getting into the trigger group.
I've got the JP triggers in 4 lowers, with bobbed hammers, run CCI or Federal primers, and have never cleaned a primer pocket since I started reloading in 1982. Never seen the need to. The new primer will seat right down to where the older one was removed. If I were shooting F class or 1K yard, I'd probable make the flash holes uniform, and that's it.

http://www.jprifles.com/1.4.8.4_sh.php

 

[okietom]

I am having memory lapses but I think that some people have used pistol primers in Contender loads that use rifle cases.

I am not sure about this and some research might be in order. Pistol primers are softer than rifle primers but I think there are some dimension differences in the large primers.

If you could get your loads to work with the gun like it is that would be great.

It might help. I hope that some other members can comment on this.