Sell the S&W 625JM? Or No?

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Keep the Wheel gun? Or sell for a 1911?

  • Sell it and get a Les Baer.

    Votes: 1 3.3%
  • Sell it and get a Wilson Combat.

    Votes: 4 13.3%
  • Sell it and get a Bobtailed Commander.

    Votes: 1 3.3%
  • Sell it and have a tricked USPSA Ltd. gun custom built.

    Votes: 8 26.7%
  • Keep it! What the heck were you thinking?

    Votes: 16 53.3%

  • Total voters
    30

Buzzdraw

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S&W K and L frames can have a much nicer action than any N frame; it is just simple mass. The N frame is big and the cylinder is big. The N frame has a certain charm, but maybe lacks practicality.

Back in the old days, a trick for the .45 ACP to reduce the cylinder mass was to cut back the front end of the cylinder and re-set the barrel backwards.

Some games, like IDPA ESR, virtually require a 625. For those it must be a 4" barrel or less.

Give me an L frame over an N frame for most purposes!

If you want to play the ESR IDPA game or just enjoy N-frames, then keep it. 625's are scarce at times, so consider that. If you want a new 1911, you could peddle it. Then, before or after, talk to olyeller or USPSA guns about building you a "banger" exactly to suit your needs.
 

ldp4570

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Never could get used to N-frames with underlugs. Now if its got a tapered barrel in a large bore non-magnum caliber i.e. 44spl, 45lc, then they tend to be very comfortable to carry and shoot. My advice would be to get rid of her and get the 1911A1 you want.
 

NikatKimber

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If you shoot the 1911 better, and enjoy it more. Then sell it.

I just did the reverse. Sold my only 1911 even though I shot it very well, I didn't shoot it much. Too much money tied up in a gun I rarely used.
 

Shadowrider

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Wow. Some good opinions here.

Actually I did buy this for IDPA. But since there are almost no IDPA comps and USPSA is going on almost EVERY weekend somewhere in the OKC/Tulsa area, I'll probably let this moon gun go and concentrate on the auto for awhile. I think that with a whole bunch of time, practice and work I might be able to make it into B class. And I have K & L frames and a GP100 (or two :lookaroun) that will work when I get into revolver. :rubhands: Heck, I could always trade off a GP for another L frame and convert that to moonclips. The N frame just doesn't feel like the smaller platform and I don't think I'll be able to progress that far with it. It's pretty smooth but it's just massive like has been said.
 

carleb

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Nothing like a new 1911, but you should keep the 625! If you sell it, you will regret it later. Figure out another way to fund the 1911.

I did this very same dumb thing and I regretted it right away. That 625 is a really nice firearm. Moon clips right? That alone puts it in a whole different category from most revolvers.
 

Glocktogo

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Nothing like a new 1911, but you should keep the 625! If you sell it, you will regret it later. Figure out another way to fund the 1911.

I did this very same dumb thing and I regretted it right away. That 625 is a really nice firearm. Moon clips right? That alone puts it in a whole different category from most revolvers.


Yes, a revolver with headspace and ignition issues. :(
 

carleb

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I meant the "different catagory" as a positive, of course. Never had anything but perfect operation, but I never tried it without moon clips. With moon clips, was there an issue I'm not aware of? Wasn't the design for moon clips or 45 auto rim?
 

Glocktogo

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I meant the "different catagory" as a positive, of course. Never had anything but perfect operation, but I never tried it without moon clips. With moon clips, was there an issue I'm not aware of? Wasn't the design for moon clips or 45 auto rim?

The gun headspaces off the moon clip, not the rim or the case mouth. Moon clips can be an issue, particularly if they're dirty or bent and varying rim thicknesses can play hobknob with the ignition and cylinder rotation. The effect of the hammer hitting the cartridge, which then hits the moon clip, which then hits the cylinder face can set up a dead hammer effect that reduces the overall ability of the firing pin to ignite the cartridge.

That's why so many 625 competition shooters do a lot of work on their guns. I probably had about 25 hours of gunsmithing and testing to get mine to reliably work through a 300 round practice session. When I first got it, it was lucky to make it through 60 before the cylinder started dragging and ignition problems arose.

Couple that with the need to come up with a load that doesn't beat up the shooter for those 300 round sessions while maintaining consistency and accuracy and it was more trouble than it was worth.

I guess for the guy that goes and shoots a box every now and then they're ok. It was the most miserable gun I've ever run in competition though.
 

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