Want to start bow hunting but I've never shot a bow..

[stroker-c10]

For your first bow, I would go with used (and no, I don't say that just because I have one for sale). I have known quite a few people that have bought new bows and decided they really weren't into it and were out a good chunk of change. As far as recommending a particular bow, I will not bother recommend a certain one because I think the best bow is the one that feels most comfortable to you. I have a lot of friends that shoot PSE's and Parker's, personally they have never felt comfortable to me. If you do insist on buying new, there are plenty of companies that offer great midrange bows that would probably fit your budget. Last time I was at great outdoors in Stillwater, they were talking alot about the Bears being a great beginner - intermediate bow, but I have never personally owned one so I cant vouch for that.

 

[Dr. Tad Hussein Winslow]

In OKC, H&H gun range or Oklahoma Archery are good places to start for a pro shop. Or, if you think you want to hunt with a traditional bow, then King's Pawn & Archery in Del City.

I recommend a compound for game hunting, and a recurve for bowfishing, Although you could use either for either/both. But the arrow rest is different, and other things, so you really want to get two different setups for these two uses. The letoff of a recurve is very helpful when hunting - the more the better.

Get one that fits you and is not too heavy of a draw - very important. A 40-50 lb pull compound bow is more than enough to kill a deer, so no need to go past that if you don't have the strength for a heavier one. But if you do, then grab a 50-60 or 60-70. I went from a 60-70 down to a 50-60 after shoulder injuries. I like it best towards the lower end of the scale, near 50 lb pull.

Do NOT get suckered in to expensive doodads, like high-dollar sights and stabilizers. In fact, you don't even need ANY stabilizer on a hunting bow, let alone one that costs more than the $3.99 Allen brand one from Academy. High-dollar stabilizers are gimmicks/scams on a hunting bow. On sights, some high-dollar ones are arguably worth it, but most are not. But a used sight off of Ebay is a much much better deal. On rests, these are usually worth the money, and I like 'capture' or 'TCRs' (total containment rests), such as the whisker biscuit - but there are others too.

As for bows, I like the little bitty ones best, like the Liberty and the 26.75" PSEs. They're not as stable in wind, but they are small and light - you can shoot the Liberty while sitting on your butt on the ground, with a little incline. I guess you need to decide first whether you want to go traditional (recurve or longbow with no sights), or use any/all available technology that is legal to help you - compound with all the bells & whistles.

If you go used on a bow, you can find some deals, but be very careful and take an experienced archer to check it out before buying. Make sure it has an adjustable draw length, *OR* fits you perfectly.

On arrows, you MUST get arrows that fit the bow - that have the right length for your draw and most importantly, the right flex/length ratio for the power of your bow. I like most any modern carbon fiber brand. I've used arrows from Easton & Beman with success, as well as Carbon Express and BassPro Redheads (which are also rebranded Carbon Express).

On accessories generally - do NOT buy PLASTIC-constructed stuff (rests, sights, etc.) - the WILL break on you (eventually) when it's cold outside. Make sure accessories are aluminum or steel except I guess plastic is acceptable on the smallest of non-essential parts, if you must. Stay away from Impact Archery stuff - work fine in the summer while practicing, but break when that plastic gets cold and you toss it in the pickup on a cold morning.

On releases, any old $14.99 Academy release will work, but make sure it's adjustable to allow a precise fit for you. Don't get hyper-sensitive target releases for hunting. Just any plain/standard one. However, a nice thick leather one like a TRU-Ball is a good investment, as it will last years on end.

On sights, get a one pin or a 3 pin. I like the one-pin for simplicity, but 3-pins are fine. Set for 20, 30, and 40 yards (or 20, 25, and 30). These 5-pinners are unnecessarily-complicated, not to mention that crazy 7-pinner I saw.

Get some straw bales for backstop and a stuffed target and practice, practice, practice. Stay back 20-25 yards or more if you don't want to robin hood.

That's just the tip of the iceberg...

 

[RedTape]

The first thing to decide is if you want to shoot traditional bows or a compound. Recurves and longbows are typically quieter than compounds and can be shot very quickly (one reason they are popular for bowfishing), however they aren't as fast. They also have no let-off, making them more difficult to shoot for long periods of time.

Don't go overboard with your first bow. You should be able to get set up for around $400 give or take. As you learn, you figure out what you like and then you can buy the exact set-up you want. I've had good luck with PSE and Hoyt compounds, but there are a lot of good brands out there. For entry level traditional bows Martin and Bear are good choices.

The two main pieces of advice I would give are:

1) Get to a good archery shop, they will spend the time to help you get started and get equipment that will fit you. They will also be there to help you after the sale. I've dealt with Pat's Archery in Okmulgee since I was 11 and have never had a bad experience with them. Dean is a great guy.

2)Don't over-bow yourself! I run into a lot of people shooting 70lbs + bows and it's just not needed. I shot my first deer when I was 13 with a 40 lbs. PSE. Complete pass through. I shot a 400lbs P&Y black bear with a 50 lbs PSE...complete pass through. Form is important in archery, and if you over-bow yourself you might pick up some bad habits. Start with something around 50 lbs...you can move up from there if you want more speed.

 

[NeverGiveUp]

I've decided to go with a compound bow after doing a little research because I can buy a kit to do my bowfishing that is removable.

As far as brands, and price range I'm really still having a hard time deciding. I guess my greatest concern now is their one particular company over another that has a low maintenance bow? Maybe some sealed bearings that I don't have to worry about or a company that wont require me to tune it as often. I just want a good bow that I will not out grow once i learn to shoot. I guess if I could stay under the $500 range or close to it i would be happy. Thanks for the help

 

[imhntn]

Single cam Mathews bows are great. Easy to tune and last forever. I would recommend buying a whole set up bow on ebay. You can usually find one with a case, some arrows, sights, arrow rest, release and stabilizer for $300-400. It is hard to go wrong with a Mathews. Just get one in your correct draw length and a weight you can handle. Good luck.

 

[Edgehead918]

Ive had good lucks with PSE products (btw Browning bows are PSE rebrands). Matthews are good as well. I agree with imhntn except that when you buy a set up on ebay you will still have to go to shop to set up the bow with regard to draw length and arrow length. Usually, customers of shops have this done at no additional charge. I bought a bow last year on ebay because it was a good enough deal that I saved money on the off the shelf price at BPS or Pats even after having it set up with a peep sight etc.

 

[imhntn]

It is pretty cheap to have your peep sight set and the rest adjusted and if you buy it for your correct draw, the arrows that come with it should fit fine.

 

[Mr. E]

Go to a shop first somewhere and figure out your draw length is before you ebay. The old guy from sportsmans now works at basspro, he's pretty good. Oh and by the way don't go bowhunting it's very addicting!