Thats what I buy.This is the best "wax" I've ever used. So quick and easy it's a no brainer.
Thats what I buy.This is the best "wax" I've ever used. So quick and easy it's a no brainer.
I pay $125 in mustang for same. It always looks showroom new in and out. If you have a show car, they will detail the undercarriage and engine bay, for a price of course.Sent my pickup to get detailed.
Inside and out, washed buffed and waxed, headlamps polished, carpet and upholstery cleaned, all the interior vinyl dressed.
$180.
Whatever was they used was the best choice.
Why? 'Cuz I didn't have to do it.
Where's your detail shop in Mustang?I pay $125 in mustang for same. It always looks showroom new in and out. If you have a show car, they will detail the undercarriage and engine bay, for a price of course.
152 and Chech hall road, west end of town. Cant miss it, always lots of expensive boats, RVs and cars out front.Where's your detail shop in Mustang?
I used to do professional detailing and paint correction. You have infinite options - and most are better than nothing.
One recommendation I make for a lot of people (stands the test of time in detailing forums like Autopia, keeps a following of fans as other trends come and go - but again, MANY options are great): Collinite No. 845 Insulator Wax.
The reason I recommend this to many people, is that it is very durable and sheds dirt and water very well - the durability is a big plus for people who don't want to wax any more than they HAVE to. It's a liquid/gel, and you want to apply it as *thin as possible* - it spreads a long way after you've done a couple panels. Spread it thin - depending on your paint color, you may have to tilt your head just right to confirm you see a thin "glaze" on the surface. Usually by the time you've done every panel, you can go back to where you started and begin buffing it off with a microfiber.
One bottle will last a long time if only used for your personal vehicles. I recommend dumping some of it into a dispenser bottle with a nozzle, so you don't accidentally dump a bunch on your applicator pad.
The other thing I do... is use "Aquawax" by Duragloss. It's a spray wax - you simply mist a panel and then wipe it around with a microfiber and it quickly seems to "evaporate". You can even mist the panel as you dry the panel. I like this for an extra layer of protection and to extend the life of the underlying Collinite (or other base wax).
My car is outdoors 24/7 these days. So, I'll put on Collinite every 2-3 months, and any time I wash it during that time, I'll take 3 minutes to put Aquawax on (I don't use Aquawax at the same time I apply Collinite/other-wax, just the in-between washes).
LASTLY (IMPORTANT): I've seen people use dish soap to wash their cars. DO NOT. Detailers will occasionally use dish soap *specifically to strip away old wax*. I've seen people complain about terrible wax durability, only to find out they apply it one weekend, only to then (unknowingly) strip it off the next weekend with dish soap!
I have owned two Ram crew cab, one ton. duel's, Kinda like waxing a school bus! The Jeep/Dodge dealer sold Mopar brand car wax. It was over priced but worked great, it did a good job, and was easy to get off. They quit selling this, so I ask the parts guy where I could get it. He said, like all house brands, Mopar just had someone else make this wax and package it in their container. This car wax is actually Meguires, sold at WalMart and everywhere else, much cheaper!!What is a good wax for my 2011 Ram that has never been waxed by me. Its starting to look dirty after washing , spot like crazy.
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