were to buy some tin

[Dumpstick]

I've got some solder I would sell.

I have a 10lb roll if plumbing solder, 45% Sn (tin). I won't split it up.

I also have some reclaimed radiator solder, 36%Sn, 62% Pb ,1%Sb.
I think I have 15 is so pounds of that. I'm willing to split that up if you don't want all of it.

 

[swampratt]

Pewter from garage sales or thrift stores is mostly Tin.
Keep an eye out for the stuff.. learn what it looks and feels like. A little will go a long ways.

Tin also helps fill out the bullet molds.
In other words all the grooves fill in very nicely with some Tin added.
A lot of Tin and the bullet becomes lighter.

 

[Aries]

What is the mix ratio

It can vary, but linotype is kind of the old standard for cast bullets, and the mix for linotype is about:

4% tin
12% antimony
84 % lead

 

[Dumpstick]

What is the mix ratio

generally, I use tin (Sn) at a rate of about 1-2% by weight, and then only to help fill out the mould. The tin helps 'wet' the lead, allowing it to flow better.
The Linotype mixture is very hard, roughly 22 Brinell Hardness (Brinell is a standard measurement), and many people these days (myself included) don't subscribe to the notion that it takes a very hard bullet to shoot lead well. That being said, if one wished to shoot at jacketed velocities with lead projectiles, a straight Lino bullet helps.
The problem is that all the Sb (Antimony) in the Lino makes the bullet brittle, and when impacting bone in a hunting situation, the bullet will often shatter. Many people hunting with lead will go with a softer bullet and a lower velocity to allow the bullet to stay together and penetrate. In this situation, the Sn (tin) allows the bullet to expand to an extent (mushroom, if you will), but needs a somewhat higher ratio to really make a difference.
In black powder days, bullets would be anywhere from 1-30 (Sn to Pb) to 1-10. Most used a 5% Sn mixture, called "20 to 1", it's actually 19 parts Pb and 1 part Sn. That 5% would somewhat harden the lead, but still allow the bullet to obdurate (swell up) in the bore to seal it.

I use a fairly soft bullet in my 7.62x54r shooting, just straight Clip On Wheel weights, + 1% Sn. this gives me a Brinell Hardness of about 12-13. It's fine for the relatively low velocity I shoot, about 1700fps.
If you are worried about effectiveness, that 7.62x54r bullet - 215 grains at 1700 fps - will probably travel thru a deer end to end.

 

[swampratt]

Very well said Dumpstick.

 

[Dumpstick]

Very well said Dumpstick.

Why, thank you Sir.

 

[soonerfan66]

Thanks guys . Started reloading my own few years back and the person I bought it from had melter ,lots of lead , tin and all . Got some solder from Lowes . I usually load 100% lead for my 58 cal. mini balls , 45-70s , 450-577s ect .but bought another Springfield Trapdoor , this one didn't shoot my Lee .459/405gr very good . Tried tin to bulk up bullets , did but not enough to help . Before buying another larger mold someone said try beagling method . It helped greatly to increase diameter and the accuracy to .

 

[EKing]

Pewter from garage sales or thrift stores is mostly Tin.
Keep an eye out for the stuff.. learn what it looks and feels like. A little will go a long ways.

Tin also helps fill out the bullet molds.
In other words all the grooves fill in very nicely with some Tin added.
A lot of Tin and the bullet becomes lighter.

I bought 4 different bread trays at a thrift store that I'm hoping are Tin, they aren't labeled or marked as to content, how do I check?

 

[Dumpstick]

I bought 4 different bread trays at a thrift store that I'm hoping are Tin, they aren't labeled or marked as to content, how do I check?

are they the "Our daily bread" trays ?

 

[EKing]

are they the "Our daily bread" trays ?

Not sure what those are, here is a picture.
Top one is silver plated, non-magnetic.
Left one is magnetic, not sure of plating, lightweight.
Middle one is probably chrome plated, magnetic, very sturdy.
Right one is silver plated and magnetic.