I've been blasting and painting parts off my old car but, I haven't found a spray paint that stays on very well. What has anyone had good luck with? I don't have the funds to have it all powder coated.
A good starting point...
https://m.youtube.com/@ProjectFarm/search?query=Spray paint
I don't have the answer, but this popped in my head. Good luck.
https://m.youtube.com/@ProjectFarm/search?query=Spray paint
I don't have the answer, but this popped in my head. Good luck.
I have been spray painting cars for over 40 years and you need a rough surface to allow the paint to stick well.
220 grit is the finest and it better not be 220 with a DA sander as that is too fine.
Hand sand only and you know as you sand the paper wears out.. you can feel it does not bite well but still looks good.
TOO bad toss that piece and get a fresh one.
I will agree with @O4L Rustoleum is good stuff.
But if your prep is poor nothing will stay on.
Sand then mineral spirit or Lacquer thinner or Rubbing alcohol rub down then paint.
If you can't get into a place to sand there is a product called Liquid No Sand.
But that only works well when used over old paint that is stuck chuck.
Not a substitute on bare steel.
I used walmart brand Black gloss on an engine and heads back in the 1990's and it stayed on for decades.
Excellent prep on those cast iron parts was the key.
No high heat paint needed as most paints are good for temps that an engine will never see.
If you see 300° F on the outside of your engine is is surely a goner.
220 grit is the finest and it better not be 220 with a DA sander as that is too fine.
Hand sand only and you know as you sand the paper wears out.. you can feel it does not bite well but still looks good.
TOO bad toss that piece and get a fresh one.
I will agree with @O4L Rustoleum is good stuff.
But if your prep is poor nothing will stay on.
Sand then mineral spirit or Lacquer thinner or Rubbing alcohol rub down then paint.
If you can't get into a place to sand there is a product called Liquid No Sand.
But that only works well when used over old paint that is stuck chuck.
Not a substitute on bare steel.
I used walmart brand Black gloss on an engine and heads back in the 1990's and it stayed on for decades.
Excellent prep on those cast iron parts was the key.
No high heat paint needed as most paints are good for temps that an engine will never see.
If you see 300° F on the outside of your engine is is surely a goner.
Back when powder coating was coming out 1985 or so we had 2 go cart frames powder coated.
Paint was always getting chipped off.
These were racing carts with methanol /caster oil burning 2 stroke engines and went 140 mph on a straight.
Anyway the powder coating after 1 night at black widow speedway on dirt at speeds way less than 140 was all flaking off and looked worse than the paint we had been spraying on them.
I have a riding mower that has a painted deck from 1980 and it is not rusted out at all No rust.
I also was given a fairly new less than 12 years old Simplicity Riding mower that had huge holes all through the deck and so thin where the blade housing attaches that the blades tilted.
JUNK.
Why?
The deck was Powder Coated.
That formed a hard plastic layer on the deck and flexing and tiny holes resulted in moisture getting between the powder coat and the steel frame.
Rusted out quickly like that.
Double wall steel sandwiched together around fenders where moisture and dirt and road salts can get between them results in rusted out fenders.
Think really hard about Powder Coating anything on a vehicle.
If it is a show only deal probably does not matter.
If you drive your stuff.... think hard about it.
1989 Ford Escort wrapped the rear coil spring with what looked like water hose.
Just on the lower coil where it sat in the strut.
Moisture/water got in that hose and rusted out that coil and it completely broke the lower coil off.
They did not think that through.
Paint was always getting chipped off.
These were racing carts with methanol /caster oil burning 2 stroke engines and went 140 mph on a straight.
Anyway the powder coating after 1 night at black widow speedway on dirt at speeds way less than 140 was all flaking off and looked worse than the paint we had been spraying on them.
I have a riding mower that has a painted deck from 1980 and it is not rusted out at all No rust.
I also was given a fairly new less than 12 years old Simplicity Riding mower that had huge holes all through the deck and so thin where the blade housing attaches that the blades tilted.
JUNK.
Why?
The deck was Powder Coated.
That formed a hard plastic layer on the deck and flexing and tiny holes resulted in moisture getting between the powder coat and the steel frame.
Rusted out quickly like that.
Double wall steel sandwiched together around fenders where moisture and dirt and road salts can get between them results in rusted out fenders.
Think really hard about Powder Coating anything on a vehicle.
If it is a show only deal probably does not matter.
If you drive your stuff.... think hard about it.
1989 Ford Escort wrapped the rear coil spring with what looked like water hose.
Just on the lower coil where it sat in the strut.
Moisture/water got in that hose and rusted out that coil and it completely broke the lower coil off.
They did not think that through.
This is my go to paint. Haven’t found anything that compares to the durability.
I buy it at Atwoods.
I buy it at Atwoods.
Powder Coating has came along ways since 1985.
But agree above with good prep is the key to paint!
But agree above with good prep is the key to paint!
Get factory paint from your dealer.
Back when I was racing stock cars, there was an Anchor Paint store here. The paint was made specifically for macinery and big equipment.
Painted several cars with that and it wore like iron. Mix it with a little lacquer thinner and it had a decent shine to it.
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