And powder coating!! Starting in the 90's we did a lot of ATV frames, never an issue, and they were absolutely abused, MX racing and big jumps, to big jumps at the dunes. Running drags at the dunes is like sand blasting, still no issues.
Good stuff indeed
I wonder if the frames were sanded at all before they got coated on the go carts.
With your results vs mine I would say the prep before PC was not good on our stuff.
Great prep, will help cheap paint. Part of prep of PRIMER.Clean, sand, clean, degrease, prime, sand, paint.
Bad prep, the best paint available won't last.
Doesn't matter what kind of paint, primer, prep or project.
Rattle can on metal, Rustoleum is good stuff
The Atwoods machinery paint is good, too.
Bad prep, the best paint available won't last.
Doesn't matter what kind of paint, primer, prep or project.
Rattle can on metal, Rustoleum is good stuff
The Atwoods machinery paint is good, too.
For big box store paint it's just hard to beat Rustoleum Hammered.
The prep is more important than the paint. Even if you are blasting them. They need to be cleaned with alcohol, or acetone, of brake clean or something to get all the oils off and then primer then before paint. Or use a direct to metal enamel.
Thanks everyone for the help. I have been bead blasting small parts and washing them off with alcohol, priming them, and then painting them. The Walmart paint I was using just didn't stick really well.
If you have spray equip. you'll find Dupont Imron hard to beat for your use.
You want a complete degrease, use acetone before spraying and if metal I use a propane torch to "sweat" the moisture out before spraying.
If you are using beads, you may want to switch to a grit. That will help provide a more angular surface for the coating to stick to.
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