I don't think it is different. I have heard there are specific instances where the breaker is supposed protect appliance wiring like a hard wired HVAC or hot tub but I don't think this applies.
So it's not important to match the load to the breaker so long as the breaker is big enough?
I won't do gfci, just used as an example of the type box I was envisioning - male plug to breaker to female. plug.
I won't do gfci, just used as an example of the type box I was envisioning - male plug to breaker to female. plug.
Right, sort of.
The load appliance will have a plug that must match the receptacle that is appropriate for the circuit including the wire and breaker (so you don't plug a 20A device into a 15A circuit.)
If I am not mistaken, by current code (NEC or local) you must have a GFCI device for every circuit in the garage for 120-250V receptacles 50A or less.
Code allows for a breaker suppling a welder to be oversized based on a percentage over the average amp draw for the welder. Which means the breaker could be already oversized for the wire. Just fyi.
Please verify wire size before continuing with whatever you do. If you didn’t put it in, people do some wonky stuff like 12 or 14 gauge wire on a 50 amp circuit
I vote for sub panel and designated breakers for each device. Verified with NEC inspector GFCI is NOT required in that application.
Please verify wire size before continuing with whatever you do. If you didn’t put it in, people do some wonky stuff like 12 or 14 gauge wire on a 50 amp circuit
I vote for sub panel and designated breakers for each device. Verified with NEC inspector GFCI is NOT required in that application.
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I am a retired journeyman electrician.
A breaker is sized not only to protect the wiring, but to handle amp inrush on startup without tripping.
While a welder or saw may say it requires a certain amount of amperage to operate correctly, that is the amount of amperage required to run the item with no load on it. On startup, or under a load, the amount of amperage need to run continuously will increase. That 17-amp saw will likely need a minimum of 25 amps to run under a load (you notice I said MINIMUM). Therefore, installing a 30-amp breaker is required.
A breaker is sized not only to protect the wiring, but to handle amp inrush on startup without tripping.
While a welder or saw may say it requires a certain amount of amperage to operate correctly, that is the amount of amperage required to run the item with no load on it. On startup, or under a load, the amount of amperage need to run continuously will increase. That 17-amp saw will likely need a minimum of 25 amps to run under a load (you notice I said MINIMUM). Therefore, installing a 30-amp breaker is required.
But that also means it's fine to run his saw on his 50amp plug right? Because that will more than handle the saws amp draw.
In my opinion, no it isn’t fine. The breaker is rated too high to trip at the appropriate time for the saw if something were to happen. For example if it sucks in a shirt and binds the amp draw will have to exceed 50 amps to trip the circuit. Twice the amount needed to run it normally. Thermal overload or internal motor protection ignored
I see. All of these years studying wiring and I've never heard of that being necessary. What happens when you plug in a blender or something that draws only a couple amps on a 20amp circuit?
I guess because I'm always making sure the circuit and wire are large enough, rarely having to worry about too large.
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I hear what you’re saying. The windings in the motor usually burn out first. The saw is on such a larger scale than a blender. That’s why I think it’s important to size the circuit no higher than necessary.
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