50 Cent AR Trigger Job by Junk Yard Genius

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NightShade

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Have my rifle that is completed and a built lower and tried this. Agree that 1/4 X 28 is the right thread size for the three lowers I have. Also picked up an extra screw for the grip so I didn't have to worry about the cutting if the original was just slightly too long.

Compared one without to the one with and the reduced takeup is very nice. My wife was even able to tell the difference and liked the "adjusted" one much better.

One thing I did notice is that the Anderson stripped lower is not threaded the whole way through so you may want to check that as well and pick up a 1/4 X 28 tap as well instead of making a second trip. The hole is drilled all the way through but the threads stop a bit short on the ones I have so to do a trigger job they will have to be tapped all the way through.

IMG_0919.jpg
 

zghorner

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Just did this along with cutting the hammer spring and bending the trigger springs and a light polish job...I couldnt ask for anything else out of an ar trigger. I tried 4 different types of ammo including surplus steel case and didn't have any light primer strikes. I have a rock river lower and it is also 1/4 28 thread. Bought a 2 pack of set screws from lowes for cheap.
 

Super Dave

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I removed my trigger, and put a small weld at the back, underside of my trigger with a TIG. I then put it in, took it out and filed (many, many times) until there was no trigger play with the safety on. This made for a very short pull, and a very short reset. No screw needed. It took longer, but worked great. I was inspired by this:

www.jprifles.com_photos_new_jpfc_1.jpg


but too cheap to spend $100. I may put a little weld under the front to adjust over travel, but it is SO minimal right now, and I am SO lazy....
 

gfercaks33

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I had a set screw in the garage and tried this and it's noticeably better. per the instructions it says back it out 1/2 a turn, I had to go 1 1/2 so I could reinstall the safety.


And super Dave I regret to say I did not use lock tight but I need to pull the grip screw and get a shorter one.
 

NightShade

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I had a set screw in the garage and tried this and it's noticeably better. per the instructions it says back it out 1/2 a turn, I had to go 1 1/2 so I could reinstall the safety.


And super Dave I regret to say I did not use lock tight but I need to pull the grip screw and get a shorter one.


Once you get the trigger where it will reliably catch the hammer you back out the set screw. After that you file the rear of the trigger so that the safety will fit in place.
 

Super Dave

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I had a set screw in the garage and tried this and it's noticeably better. per the instructions it says back it out 1/2 a turn, I had to go 1 1/2 so I could reinstall the safety.


And super Dave I regret to say I did not use lock tight but I need to pull the grip screw and get a shorter one.

You know where I keep it! On one of the tables.... somewhere.....
 

gfercaks33

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All right got my Jp springs in so I decided to tackle this and do the grinding on the back end of the trigger. Let me tell you this, be careful too much and the safety will no longer function that being send I need a new trigger haha.
 

CoyoteStalker

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The grip screw trigger adjuster does the same thing, and can be adjusted without removing anything.

http://www.ar15triggeradjusters.com/

Also carried by JoeBob's

http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/JoeBob_s_Trigger_Adjuster_p/jb-triggeradjuster.htm

I have one on my AR, setup with an ALG QMS trigger and JP yellow springs. Makes for a very nice trigger for not much $$$.

Thanks for posting! I just did this exact thing, and I'm very pleased with the results. Can't wait for a range day!
 

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