A tragic mistake on my 1894 Octagon.

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I’ve wanted to get a Marlin and spend a few years and likely more money than I’d admit too to “make it mine.” Turkish walnut stocks, color case hardened receiver, lever, end cap, reblue the barrel, possibly some engraving, looks like I may have found the candidate.
Well then send it Turnbull Restorations with a blank check...Gun Restoration Services | Turnbull Restoration Company
Do you want Marlin shiney or Browning shiney?
 
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If you are not in a hurry I’ll fix it for you. What kind of finish do you want on it afterwards?

I live in Oologah. No cost have been repairing and re finishing them for 20+ years.
Don’t see any thing that seems a challenge but if I do I’ll call you and return it before starting
 

Rez Exelon

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I use Birchwood Casey Tru oil and the more layers you put on the shiner it gets
This. My rule is that I do 3 coats for anything casual, and up to 9 for the boom sticks I really like. This was a Sauer 90 that I popped on about 9 coats. It's purdy now after starting a very dull bit of wood with a personality like a wet pancake.

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Personally I would have left it, honest wear on wood furniture speaks of history…..
This gets truer the older I get.

I recently let my son re-do the stock on my old Marlin 22 bolt action (‘74 model). It looks great, but is almost too slick, and all of the “wear” is gone. Hopefully my grandsons will put more wear on that new slick stock, but @1shott makes a darn good point about old gun stocks.
 
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This is an amazing product. I’ve used it to revitalize cabinets, tie in new to existing cabinets, refinish gun stocks. The more layers you use, the shinier it gets. I take 4 00 steel wool and buff down to the sheen I want.
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I refinished a shotgun with Birchwood Casey that turned out impressive after about 15 coats. RIP Honeybee for turning me on to this process and advising to apply with the fingers only after several failures.
Working on a new project putting wood scales(handles) on a set of steak knives and a chef’s knife from wood this time vs stone I’ve posted in the past from a dark grainy South American wood. Thread to follow when done.
I’m not satisfied with the polyurethane clear I’ve applied to the scales. It’s clumpy somewhat. Not really as gun finish as I’d like. Applied with a very expensive camel hair paint brush.
I have a quart of the Dura Seal in my cart.
Is it anywhere near what finish the Birchwood Casey can produce?
 

dlbleak

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I refinished a shotgun with Birchwood Casey that turned out impressive after about 15 coats. RIP Honeybee for turning me on to this process and advising to apply with the fingers only after several failures.
Working on a new project putting wood scales(handles) on a set of steak knives and a chef’s knife from wood this time vs stone I’ve posted in the past from a dark grainy South American wood. Thread to follow when done.
I’m not satisfied with the polyurethane clear I’ve applied to the scales. It’s clumpy somewhat. Not really as gun finish as I’d like. Applied with a very expensive camel hair paint brush.
I have a quart of the Dura Seal in my cart.
Is it anywhere near what finish the Birchwood Casey can produce?
I would think so depending on the color you chose. I think there is only 6 or 7 color options. It’s made for hardwood floors so it’s pretty durable
 
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The first finish I picked up isn’t dark enough to match, so I’ll touch up the lighter side and get the dark walnut finish. I’ll even everything up then put a coat or two of the stain I have now over it as it gives a slightly glossy finish. I also have to do some inletting but I’m surprisingly comfortable doing that
 
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Inletting now after you trashed the stock? You just don’t know when to stop do you…. I used to make a lot of money after Bubba had worked their magic. Sir, put the stock down and back away from it until you get competent help.

Regards,
Offer up some advice vs trashing the OP's project. We all share on here our mistakes and learn from others that have been there and done that, finally finding the solution and coming out a winner.
 

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