Another old car thread

[swampratt]

To seat rings well stick the car in first gear and also do second gear.
Drive down a long not so used road and accelerate to like 5000 rpm and let off the gas coast to 2000 rpm or so,,this creates a lot of vacuum in the engine and really helps seat rings.
Rev it coast down.. keep doing that the rings should seat.. maybe 20 times or so.

Another thing on molly rings is that anything coarser than 420 grit will wear the molly faced coating off the rings.

I noticed what looked like a cheap hone job on the cylinders.
The old 3 shoe hone..most were 240grit and very fine was 400 if you can even find them.

I have my molly ring cylinders finished at 620 if you are going to do it on the cheap side a little backyard know how assembly then take 1500 grit wet sandpaper and sand in a circular motion in the cylinders by hand to knock the coarseness off of thoe 3 shoe hones.

Years many years ago my uncle wrote sealed power corp. When they came out with the molly faced rings which GM and others had in their production vehicles.
He asked what the best surface was to seat the moly rings.
they wrote back and stated --You know that 100,000 mile polish in a cylinder wall that has a golden sheen to it. That is the best surface to seat our molly rings.

Some Of my roundy round friends want to see their thumb nail reflection in a finished cylinder wall and then use the molly rings.part # we used was E251K for the 4"+ bore stuff ford ,chevy, olds..etc.

But do know they changed a lot on that same part number.. the rings are not what they used to be.
The melling M55 went to crap also,,word has it they redid it to fix the issue.
The old regular cast flat tops are not what they used to be either # 345NP
I would scream those to 8000+ in 350" engines and no issues. .0035-.0045" piston to wall clearances.
Now the things have less meat around the pins and sloppy looking machine and casting work along with shorter skirts.

I hate when they change a good thing.
I actually tried some Hypereutectics..lasted 6 months and grenaded one..Nothing left in that hole but a rod that was bent and a wrist pin.

 

[gfercaks33]

I may have to pick your brain some haha, I'm fixing this on the cheap in my garage. I m going to try the oil trick and see if it fixes it any, if not I'm going to re ring it I bought the rings I just will need some rod bearings and to acquire the specialty tools (ring filer, ring compressor, ect)

 

[swampratt]

Also do the drive and decell thing and see what you get..it sucks oil up onto the rings and may work.

Whatever you do ..do not make the cylinders rough again..they look rough .
I would bet after running it they are slicked down and ready for some rings.

My current 350 is on it's 4th set of rings and pistons..and never been bored and crank never turned..No ring ridge either..kept the oil glazed cylinders and No hone taken to it after the 100,000 miles it had on it doing duty in a 1969 station wagon.
Buddy said i needed to deglaze it..BS i said.
I bet him 45 bucks the rings would seat instantly.
I broke the cam in and then removed all plugs and did a cranking pressure test 245 on all holes.
Yes 245psi..I did it with throttle closed also..makes about 10-15 psi difference.

12.02 compression with a flat top with 5.5cc valve releif's .028" piston to head ,,that includes the gasket and a 54cc chamber.
Comp flat tappet 270H..Got my first 12 second pass with it ran it with ported cast iron ex manifolds and ported iron Qjet intake with a single point firing it all off with solid core wires and champion plugs.
OLD school.

 

[gfercaks33]

Yeah defiantly pick your brain when I get around to doing stuff haha. I like the old school way of doing things they just work. When I ran my compression test they were all in the 185-195 range but this on was struggling to get 160 (carb wot). When I broke it in we did it in the garage and brought it up to 2k for about 20 min. I think my issue is with the carb I put Holley metering block gaskets in it instead of the quick fuel gasket, the qf gaskets don't have the hole for the timed spark so I wound up dumping fuel into the intake, I had the pump running to adjust the fuel pressure and filled a cylinder and got gas in some of the others washing the rings.

 

[Larry Morgan]

Did you have that block bored or honed before you assembled it? If you are using a modern ring package with moly faces, then it should be plateau honed first. Initial honing is too rough, and needs to be finished out with either a flex hone (colloquially called a "dingleberry" or "dingleball" hone) or an ultra hone (basically a big abrasive brush) to knock the peaks down and give you a plateau finish. If you imagine the bore face as having a lot of sharp peaks and valleys after the initial rough hone, this second step is done to smooth the peaks down to plateaus, leaving only valleys. You want the ring to ride on the nice flat plateaus for a good bearing surface, and you want the valleys to trap oil for lubrication.

In ye olde days, cylinders were left more rough for cast iron rings. This would allow them to wear into the bore and seat. Those days are gone, though.

 

[swampratt]

You would think those days are gone.
Not so.. There is a machine shop very close to the Mustang orielly that still leaves them rough.
I picked their brains as i do with most machine shops and there are a few that build like that.

Save a buck i suppose.

 

[gfercaks33]

So I did a thing.


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[beastep]

What motor is that?

 

[gfercaks33]

It's a 400 punched out .030 to a 406.

 

[beastep]

What 400? Ford? I cant tell from the pics.