Hobby Lobby sells a little kit with a punch, anvil, and an assortment of rivets.
Hobby Lobby sells a little kit with a punch, anvil, and an assortment of rivets.
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2007
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Tandy leather is about the most common source for leather supplies.
If you are in the tulsa area Midcontinent in Coweta is darn hard to beat.
For the rivets, the jiffy rivets are OK but I prefer the double cap rivets as they give a better finshed look.
On the edges of things like holsters or knife sheaths and such I smooth them up with a belt sander or a sanding drum on a Dremel to give them a smooth edge then burnish with a tool I made from a peice of deer antler. after it is smooth I rub on beeswax and polish the edges.
This a mototcycle tool bag I made a while back. The edges are burnished and rubbed with beeswax after dyeing. On the left you can see the back of tthe double cap rivets on the strap.
I'll dig out a couple of my holsters and post a few pic this weekend.
If you are in the tulsa area Midcontinent in Coweta is darn hard to beat.
For the rivets, the jiffy rivets are OK but I prefer the double cap rivets as they give a better finshed look.
On the edges of things like holsters or knife sheaths and such I smooth them up with a belt sander or a sanding drum on a Dremel to give them a smooth edge then burnish with a tool I made from a peice of deer antler. after it is smooth I rub on beeswax and polish the edges.
This a mototcycle tool bag I made a while back. The edges are burnished and rubbed with beeswax after dyeing. On the left you can see the back of tthe double cap rivets on the strap.
I'll dig out a couple of my holsters and post a few pic this weekend.
Tandy leather is about the most common source for leather supplies.
If you are in the tulsa area Midcontinent in Coweta is darn hard to beat.
For the rivets, the jiffy rivets are OK but I prefer the double cap rivets as they give a better finshed look.
On the edges of things like holsters or knife sheaths and such I smooth them up with a belt sander or a sanding drum on a Dremel to give them a smooth edge then burnish with a tool I made from a peice of deer antler. after it is smooth I rub on beeswax and polish the edges.
This a mototcycle tool bag I made a while back. The edges are burnished and rubbed with beeswax after dyeing. On the left you can see the back of tthe double cap rivets on the strap.
I'll dig out a couple of my holsters and post a few pic this weekend.
I would like to see your burnishing tool if you don't mind.
Oh and we have the same Starrett ruler.
Iwant1 - nice work... i think i could pass along a couple tips that would make the kydex part work even better for you and look even better... as well as make the gun "click" into place instead of drag into place.
I like making money on holsters, but i like helping others too so... (and no my work isn't anywhere near perfect... but its better than it used to be)
I like making money on holsters, but i like helping others too so... (and no my work isn't anywhere near perfect... but its better than it used to be)
All my holsters click on place. This is done by making an impression in the the trigger area. The deeper you press the tighter it will click.
I would like to hear any tips you have, please share.
pull the gun out real slow and put it back in... that large indentation will drag down the trigger guard for as long as the indentation is.
see on the XD holster i posted how the trigger guard area is flat except for 1 small indentation? i use a small round object, sometimes the end of a 1/8" or even 1/4" drill bit and spot heat that area and put a small depression in it. This way, it only drags for a small amount as it moves past the small indentation. I do this on both sides.
Also, i wrap my guns in 1 layer of blue painters tape because i want a little extra clearance (less drag) when the holster is finished... less dragging on the sharp edges of the slide, etc.
i saw a holster above (someone elses) with the area over the ejection port sunken in... thats going to wear the sharp edges of the ejection port down, as well as wear badly on the slide the whole way up to the port from the nose of the gun. Will wear the finish right off if drawn much for practice. Will definitely begin to scratch the finish once it gets a little grit in the holster and is drawn a few times.
To make the belt clips look like they do, i use a pair of sheet-metal pliers (thin, wide). first i form the top half (round it over) then heat just the bottom and lock onto the kydex with the pliers and shove it down in towards the extra wide belt... then right before completely cool, i remove the belt, and roll the bottom in a little further so it kinda cuts back in towars the belt and helps keep from slipping off when worn.
you can see the small round depression in the trigger guard of this J-frame holster i made... I also wrap the revolvers in tape when i make them - nobody wants to wear the finish off their cylinder.
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see on the XD holster i posted how the trigger guard area is flat except for 1 small indentation? i use a small round object, sometimes the end of a 1/8" or even 1/4" drill bit and spot heat that area and put a small depression in it. This way, it only drags for a small amount as it moves past the small indentation. I do this on both sides.
Also, i wrap my guns in 1 layer of blue painters tape because i want a little extra clearance (less drag) when the holster is finished... less dragging on the sharp edges of the slide, etc.
i saw a holster above (someone elses) with the area over the ejection port sunken in... thats going to wear the sharp edges of the ejection port down, as well as wear badly on the slide the whole way up to the port from the nose of the gun. Will wear the finish right off if drawn much for practice. Will definitely begin to scratch the finish once it gets a little grit in the holster and is drawn a few times.
To make the belt clips look like they do, i use a pair of sheet-metal pliers (thin, wide). first i form the top half (round it over) then heat just the bottom and lock onto the kydex with the pliers and shove it down in towards the extra wide belt... then right before completely cool, i remove the belt, and roll the bottom in a little further so it kinda cuts back in towars the belt and helps keep from slipping off when worn.
you can see the small round depression in the trigger guard of this J-frame holster i made... I also wrap the revolvers in tape when i make them - nobody wants to wear the finish off their cylinder.
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Nano's Holsters Rock, I Have Been Sporting One For Almost 2 Years Now, I Have Never Had Any Issues With His Other Than Something I Did On My Own And He Fixed The Issue And Made It Even Better Than It Was Before.
I Cant Say The Same For The Other Local Big Name Guy That I Bought A Kydex Holster From For My Glock 27, He Wanted $90 To Repair It When I Only Paid $50ish For It Brand New.
I Cant Say The Same For The Other Local Big Name Guy That I Bought A Kydex Holster From For My Glock 27, He Wanted $90 To Repair It When I Only Paid $50ish For It Brand New.
I know a guy right here in OKC and shoots out at H&H who makes hosters. He goes by the handel of EvylRobot. If you want me to put you in touch with him PM me and I'll do it. 
