Best way to introduce zoysia grass?

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I am not an expert, but have been learning. I didn't want to use a bunch of chemicals, but the dandelions were taking over. Sand burrs make my blood pressure rise just thinking about them. Clover which I don't mind as much was also starting to make life hard for the grass I like. The house next me was the big dandelion problem. I can't bend over and weed without more back pain. I finally got some Scotts Turf Builder Weed & Feed on sale at Walmart. I put some on the front yard next me as well since nobody currently lives there and it was the worst source of dandelions. It really helped and I plan on using some sort of pre-emergent next season.
 

bigb159

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I am not an expert, but have been learning. I didn't want to use a bunch of chemicals, but the dandelions were taking over. Sand burrs make my blood pressure rise just thinking about them. Clover which I don't mind as much was also starting to make life hard for the grass I like. The house next me was the big dandelion problem. I can't bend over and weed without more back pain. I finally got some Scotts Turf Builder Weed & Feed on sale at Walmart. I put some on the front yard next me as well since nobody currently lives there and it was the worst source of dandelions. It really helped and I plan on using some sort of pre-emergent next season.
Pre-emergents are difficult because you need to time the application of the pesticide to the specific germination soil temperature of the weed you are trying to prevent. Usually we are talking late-September, early-October, but the weather will dictate the time. Most people are looking to thicken up their Fescue at that times as well, so you want to do the pre- at least two weeks before Fescue overseeding.

That said, it's night and day if you can get the pre-emergent just right in the fall - your bermuda and zoysia grasses will start thin in Spring, with the absence of all the targeted weeds, and will spread more quickly into the gaps with the right amount of water and fertilizer.

For dandelions, I missed the pre- window this year, so I spot sprayed them with 2,4-d post-emergent and it worked wonders.
 
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Pre-emergents are difficult because you need to time the application of the pesticide to the specific germination soil temperature of the weed you are trying to prevent. Usually we are talking late-September, early-October, but the weather will dictate the time. Most people are looking to thicken up their Fescue at that times as well, so you want to do the pre- at least two weeks before Fescue overseeding.

That said, it's night and day if you can get the pre-emergent just right in the fall - your bermuda and zoysia grasses will start thin in Spring, with the absence of all the targeted weeds, and will spread more quickly into the gaps with the right amount of water and fertilizer.

For dandelions, I missed the pre- window this year, so I spot sprayed them with 2,4-d post-emergent and it worked wonders.
Thanks for the tips! It's amazing how much there is to know about lawncare.
 

Lakenut

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Depending on what part of the state you live in, generally if you don’t have your first fall application of pre-emergent down by the opening of dove season, you’re too late you will have Poa through the winter and spring

Back when I was using traditional pre-emergents (most provide 90 days of coverage)it was prior to Sept 1 then late February then June 1. Now with resilion it’s one application the 3rd -4th week of August and done till the next Aug. this stuff is expensive, but it balances out with one application versus three and the need to spray post emergent for your broad leaves.
 

Waynehead05

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Currently, my yard is mostly Bermuda grass, with various species of weeds, clover, etc. mixed in. The yard is too big for spraying of pesticides, and I don’t want to do that either. The soil is silt loam, and it drains well. Mostly open to the sun all day. My neighbor on one side has an area covered with zoysia grass, and it’s spreading into my yard slowly but surely. I really like the stuff - it’s dense and soft to walk and sit on, and best yet, it crowds out most / all of the weeds in my yard where it’s established itself. I’d love for it to grow on both sides of my driveway, as that’s where the worst of the worst of the weeds grows - sand burrs (a pox on that species now and for all time!) Again, I have no wish to use pesticides except in a few spot applications, and the sand burrs cover far too much of an area for that. I figure if the zoysia was present in the same area, the sand burrs would be crowded out - however, it’ll take years before the present coverage spreads across the yard to the driveway, and there’s still the other side of the driveway to deal with.

What’s the best way to get zoysia established in a current lawn? Spread the seed into the grass / weeds and water? Use a box blade to remove the current vegetation and spread the zoysia seed in the bare dirt? Plugs of zoysia grass planted at intervals in cleared divots? Of course, this would all happen in the mid fall or in the spring when it’s cooler and there would be more precipitation. Just wanted to get your comments on how to go about with this quest. Thanks!
Speak to your neighbor, and find out the strand of Zoysia. Then start reading up on “how to sprig.” Your target time will be mid to late spring of next year so gather info over the next 6 months.

You can either harvest the sprigs from the portion that is growing into your yard or you can harvest them from sod if it’s the same strand.
 
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Speak to your neighbor, and find out the strand of Zoysia. Then start reading up on “how to sprig.” Your target time will be mid to late spring of next year so gather info over the next 6 months.

You can either harvest the sprigs from the portion that is growing into your yard or you can harvest them from sod if it’s the same strand.

Unfortunately, the person who planted the zoysia is no longer of this world, and the current owner doesn’t know what strain was used. And I’m reluctant to remove any of the zoysia now in my yard - I want the stuff to thrive!! ;)
 

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