... Seems I remember reading about sizing the case so that they headspace on the shoulder and belted rim. Apparently, that method will increase the life of the brass.
This. And anneal.
... Seems I remember reading about sizing the case so that they headspace on the shoulder and belted rim. Apparently, that method will increase the life of the brass.
I use a chopstick that fits tight in primer pocket - works well on belted and rimmed cartridges that tend to wobble in a socket. I've also noticed considerable accuracy improvement after annealing non-premium cases.For annealing I use a cordless drill with a socket in the chuck. Drop the case head first into the socket. Spin and hold the neck in the flame until the brass turns blue. Drop the case into a can of water.
Not really sure this applies to the case neck issue but I think there are a few tricks to resizing belted cases. Seems I remember reading about sizing the case so that they headspace on the shoulder and belted rim. Apparently, that method will increase the life of the brass.
Don't confuse gunsmithing and reloading. The purpose of the belt was early double rifle extraction, and purely esthetic nowadays. The gunsmith has to make sure that belt fits tight to avoid unneccessary case expansion above the belt, reloading has to be done off shoulder.
Meh... I don't take wiki to be the gospel on this. All you have to do is switch over to the .300 H&H wiki article and it says the opposite: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.300_H&H_Magnum
I have to disagree.FYI, The belted magnums were originally needed to prevent the firing pin from driving the cartridge forward. It started with the .300 H&H. They didn't have enough shoulder to prevent misfires. Had nothing to do with extraction, they have a rim for that.
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