Chevy Torsion Bar Adjustment

[dlbleak]

Ok, so we put 285's on 8 inch rims on my sons 93 yukon. its always sat an inch or so cock-eyed low on the driver side. i have not got under it to inspect the torsion keys to see if they are broken or not. what do need to look for?

I need to make some clearance quick as the tires are rubbing a bit. i already trimmed a tiny bit off the bumper edge to keep from tearing up the tires.

how can i tell if the key is broken or worse if the bar is twisted? all my research on the net tells me to leave the torsion bars alone and find clearance elsewhere.

any help or suggestions will be much appreciated.

 

[WhiteyMacD]

Ok, so we put 285's on 8 inch rims on my sons 93 yukon. its always sat an inch or so cock-eyed low on the driver side. i have not got under it to inspect the torsion keys to see if they are broken or not. what do need to look for?

I need to make some clearance quick as the tires are rubbing a bit. i already trimmed a tiny bit off the bumper edge to keep from tearing up the tires.

how can i tell if the key is broken or worse if the bar is twisted? all my research on the net tells me to leave the torsion bars alone and find clearance elsewhere.

any help or suggestions will be much appreciated.

Cranking your torsion bars isnt a good idea. I definitely wouldnt do it. If you are willing to hunt, you can put a heavy duty torsion bar in there. Rancho use to sell some, but instead of spending all that money on some pretty red torsion bars, I went to pull a part and pulled some stock ones from a 3.4 ton. Took them to CORE and had them installed.
Or, you can look for some reindexing keys.

These are the only 2 ways I recommend. Crankin them yourself your just asking for front end problems, alignment, toe-in, et al.

As far as the droop: might also want to check the factory body mounts/bushings. I know I had to replace several on my 93 Sierra (again, 8 years ago)

 

[dyabolical]

That is what is typically referred to as chevy lean. The gas tank is on the driver side frame rail and over the course of several years the uneven weight causes the leafs to sag. You can pick up some zero rate spring packs to fix it in the rear. The front is a different story. You will want to keep the spring tension on the torsion bars equal between the sides. Cranking them a little is not an issue if you do not mind sacrificing a little stiffer ride. Just be sure that no more than 2 of the ribs touch on the half shaft boots.

You can do a quick search on fullsizechevy.com for chevy lean and get a load of info on how to fix it.

 

[dlbleak]

Cranking your torsion bars isnt a good idea. I definitely wouldnt do it. If you are willing to hunt, you can put a heavy duty torsion bar in there. Rancho use to sell some, but instead of spending all that money on some pretty red torsion bars, I went to pull a part and pulled some stock ones from a 3.4 ton. Took them to CORE and had them installed.
Or, you can look for some reindexing keys.

These are the only 2 ways I recommend. Crankin them yourself your just asking for front end problems, alignment, toe-in, et al.

As far as the droop: might also want to check the factory body mounts/bushings. I know I had to replace several on my 93 Sierra (again, 8 years ago)

i found some 1-3 inch lift index keys on ebay. however, if this is just "chevy lean" can i lift the front with a simple leveling kit? and can the kit be adjusted from side to side? i'm sure this thing needs at least shocks and maybe springs. just looking for the fastest way to get some clearance without spending a bunch of cash right now.

 

[WhiteyMacD]

i found some 1-3 inch lift index keys on ebay. however, if this is just "chevy lean" can i lift the front with a simple leveling kit? and can the kit be adjusted from side to side? i'm sure this thing needs at least shocks and maybe springs. just looking for the fastest way to get some clearance without spending a bunch of cash right now.

My issue wasnt chevy lean. If that is the case, one side is more worn than the other. I know you dont want to spend a bunch of bucks, but I would hate to go with a quick fix that will possible cost more bucks down the road.

I would definitely check the body mounts/bushings (like I said, this was an issue on mine. My cab had a lean to the driver side, turned out to be a deteriorated bushing.) If that aint it, and its worn out torsion bar or spring on one side,... call CORE tomorrow. They are here in town. Talk to Jerry and see what he would recommend as the "least expensive fix" or even hobble-a-long. He'll steer ya straight.

 

[338Shooter]

Cranking the bars is fine. Lots of people do it. Ford torsion keys are popular but they really do the same thing and you can bottom out the stoxk keys if you want. You're just adding preload to the springs (the bars are the springs). The issue you have is likely worn out bars. You can crank but you shuld probably replace the bars. It isn't hard to do. Cranking for leveling is hard on the split shafts if you have 4wd and hard on the ball joints on either 2 or 4wd. If you raise the truck more than an inch or so it is a good idea to have an alignment done. Your camber will be off. You'll also need to think about new shocks if you go over an inch. Cranking also wears harder on the front end like the pitman and idler arms, all four tie rod ends and the steering box. Front end work is expensive.

But if you want, there is no danger in cranking them. People do it all the time. With good torsion bars you can get almost 3" lift in the front. If you go over 2" you're asking for trouble IMO. Also, if your bars are worn you're asking for trouble with cranking. Especially if you go with one of the unnecessary key replacements. These just allow more cranking and with worn bars it takes more cranking to get to the same spot as good bars. This overloads the worn bars and they can break. You don't want to be under the truck when they decide to go.

I would get new bars and stick with the factory keys. Then crank until you get the level you want. That isn't much and should be perfectly acceptable if you don't have anything but stock in the rear. I have 2" blocks in back and can level the truck without issues other than a rough ride. Yeah the ride goes to hell if you do it.

Check out the full size chevy forum. They have a sticky about this in the offroad section.

Linkz fo free holla. http://www.fullsizechevy.com/showth...s-amp-Torsion-Bar-Cranking-Replacing-**TECH**


There isn't much on this body style chevy truck that you need a mechanic for. If you've got the time and are willing to learn they are easy to work on and there is a metric TON of info on forums. Very popular platform for people to modify.

I just swapped a 2002 Express Van PCM into my 1997 and I have a 383 stroker sitting in the garage and a 14 bolt SF rear end to drop under it after I rebuild. If you can dream it you can do it.

If you decide to do the bars, bring it on over and I'll help.

 

[WhiteyMacD]

Cranking the bars is fine. Lots of people do it. Ford torsion keys are popular but they really do the same thing and you can bottom out the stoxk keys if you want. You're just adding preload to the springs (the bars are the springs). The issue you have is likely worn out bars. You can crank but you shuld probably replace the bars. It isn't hard to do. Cranking for leveling is hard on the split shafts if you have 4wd and hard on the ball joints on either 2 or 4wd. If you raise the truck more than an inch or so it is a good idea to have an alignment done. Your camber will be off. You'll also need to think about new shocks if you go over an inch. Cranking also wears harder on the front end like the pitman and idler arms, all four tie rod ends and the steering box. Front end work is expensive.

But if you want, there is no danger in cranking them. People do it all the time. With good torsion bars you can get almost 3" lift in the front. If you go over 2" you're asking for trouble IMO. Also, if your bars are worn you're asking for trouble with cranking. Especially if you go with one of the unnecessary key replacements. These just allow more cranking and with worn bars it takes more cranking to get to the same spot as good bars. This overloads the worn bars and they can break. You don't want to be under the truck when they decide to go.

I would get new bars and stick with the factory keys. Then crank until you get the level you want. That isn't much and should be perfectly acceptable if you don't have anything but stock in the rear. I have 2" blocks in back and can level the truck without issues other than a rough ride. Yeah the ride goes to hell if you do it.

Check out the full size chevy forum. They have a sticky about this in the offroad section.

Linkz fo free holla. http://www.fullsizechevy.com/showth...s-amp-Torsion-Bar-Cranking-Replacing-**TECH**

I heavily disagree with this. Anything more than 1.5-2" and you are creating bad CV angles. Maybe this isnt an issue for 98s and up, but it is a issue with 88-98s. Beyond that, you need to really make sure your mark your bars so you can tell you have cranked each side equally.

And I would vehemently disagree with buying new ones then cranking them. If you are going to buy new ones, just get heavy duty bars. That alone will give you at least 2" of lift (Look at a 88-98 3/4ton vs 1/2 ton 2wd)...

 

[338Shooter]

It's ok for you to be wrong Derrick. Just check the 50+ page sticky in that link.

 

[WhiteyMacD]

It's ok for you to be wrong Derrick.

Dustin, I was lifting this body style almost a decade before you could drive. And the IFS front end, I am very familiar with. Up to and including a snapped cv axle while going 70 on an off ramp.

A.) He never mentions a maximum height he adjusted to.
B.) He never mentions CV angles.

I dont put much stock into anonymous users forum posts.

I can easily say that I am a Dr, and you could gain extra length on your wang by tieing it off to the bumper of a dump truck. Sure, it will get you length, but the side-effects you might not like. Should I make a sticky of that on a forum so it is accepted as gospel?

 

[338Shooter]

Cool, I can appreciate your opinion, but it is just that. There is a lot of info on this topic.

We don't even know if the 93 Yukon is even 4x4 do we? CV shafts may not even be a concern.