Damn well spoken. I am a Chevy guy, buy give credit where credit is due. I would still go one light in my shorts for a Mach 1!
Damn well spoken. I am a Chevy guy, buy give credit where credit is due. I would still go one light in my shorts for a Mach 1!
I agree for the most part. Just keep this little tidbit in mind. When you start getting long crank times after initial startup, just pull the vacuum line on your fuel pressure regulator. No doubt it will have fuel in it, and no doubt be able to touch the end of the hose nipple and get fuel on your finger . They rupture and load the intake(kills mileage too). A $30 part, 5 minutes to replace, and your rockin again
When I was a kid my dad was a mechanic and body/paint shop owner and he was a total Ford guy- trucks and cars. My first car when I got my license in 85' was a Mustang and also drove around in a couple of my dads Ford pickups that I ran the total **** out of in the desert and on the beach in southern California partying. Senior year my dad let me drive around in his 85' full size Bronco,351W,souped up,on 33s. I loved that truck. After graduation in 88' my mom who lived in Oklahoma buys me a new Chevy S-10 Blazer 4x4. My dad took the Bronco and gave it to my lil brother. He still has it.
And I still have the Blazer. 205k,rebuilt the original 4.3l about 40k ago,original tranny,a few parts here and there like a new radiator and heatercore last winter,etc. Have a little rust at the bottom of one quarterpanel that was part of getting hit by someone and from winters in northern Cali and Iowa. Overall its super reliable,fun in the mud and snow, and just a badassed little truck that I drive back and forth regularly around town as well as to California and Iowa. I plan on driving it forever and since I know it so well by now it will be my SHTF go-to. 96' I bought a Cheyenne C-1500 extended cab and drove the **** out of it as a going down to my land,hunting and fishing,hauling,etc truck. It replaced a little Ranger that was a total POS. Recently sold it and the only problem with it was it looked like it had already been to Afghanistan on the front line and a SHTF truck on the exterior but was mechanically sound,and only had 135k on it. In 98' I bought a Toyota Supra twin turbo that Ive put about 330k on in 10 years- its been thru 2 engines,couple of turbo rebuilds,lots and lots of new parts,etcetc. Black tagged it and have it in storage now while I rebuild the entire fuel system. Rebuilt the entire cooling system 5 years ago. Planning on getting another 300k out of it when I get it on the road again. My ex MIL drove a little Toyota 4x4 truck back and forth from Des Moines,Iowa to her job at the Maytag factory for years and years and I heard it has over 700k on it and is still getting her around Des Moines. Cheapassed lil German lady but I guess she got her moneys worth with that one.
My wife commutes 60 miles round trip daily to work and back and buys a brand new car about every 3-5 years. She takes a few driving vacations a year of at least 2000 miles. She has no loyalty,buys whatever looks nice to her and has the amenities she enjoys,etc. And her cars are in the shop 2-3 times a year- the usuals are emissions sensors,transaxles,and some other repairs done to a few of them. Thats how they stick you at those dealerships I try to tell her on a new car buy- service and repairs,parts,etc. Her last 3 cars- Dodge Intrepid(transaxles replaced several times,heater problems,etc), Ford Taurus(2 engines), and now a 4 yr old Stratus. The Stratus actually has so far been a pretty decent car,so far,and she has kept it the longest with almost 80k on it now. But its getting close to that magical American manufacturer number of 100k where it will start to need all sorts of stuff.
And I still have the Blazer. 205k,rebuilt the original 4.3l about 40k ago,original tranny,a few parts here and there like a new radiator and heatercore last winter,etc. Have a little rust at the bottom of one quarterpanel that was part of getting hit by someone and from winters in northern Cali and Iowa. Overall its super reliable,fun in the mud and snow, and just a badassed little truck that I drive back and forth regularly around town as well as to California and Iowa. I plan on driving it forever and since I know it so well by now it will be my SHTF go-to. 96' I bought a Cheyenne C-1500 extended cab and drove the **** out of it as a going down to my land,hunting and fishing,hauling,etc truck. It replaced a little Ranger that was a total POS. Recently sold it and the only problem with it was it looked like it had already been to Afghanistan on the front line and a SHTF truck on the exterior but was mechanically sound,and only had 135k on it. In 98' I bought a Toyota Supra twin turbo that Ive put about 330k on in 10 years- its been thru 2 engines,couple of turbo rebuilds,lots and lots of new parts,etcetc. Black tagged it and have it in storage now while I rebuild the entire fuel system. Rebuilt the entire cooling system 5 years ago. Planning on getting another 300k out of it when I get it on the road again. My ex MIL drove a little Toyota 4x4 truck back and forth from Des Moines,Iowa to her job at the Maytag factory for years and years and I heard it has over 700k on it and is still getting her around Des Moines. Cheapassed lil German lady but I guess she got her moneys worth with that one.
My wife commutes 60 miles round trip daily to work and back and buys a brand new car about every 3-5 years. She takes a few driving vacations a year of at least 2000 miles. She has no loyalty,buys whatever looks nice to her and has the amenities she enjoys,etc. And her cars are in the shop 2-3 times a year- the usuals are emissions sensors,transaxles,and some other repairs done to a few of them. Thats how they stick you at those dealerships I try to tell her on a new car buy- service and repairs,parts,etc. Her last 3 cars- Dodge Intrepid(transaxles replaced several times,heater problems,etc), Ford Taurus(2 engines), and now a 4 yr old Stratus. The Stratus actually has so far been a pretty decent car,so far,and she has kept it the longest with almost 80k on it now. But its getting close to that magical American manufacturer number of 100k where it will start to need all sorts of stuff.
Mahindra will have the first diesel in a half ton pick up to market probably eary next year.
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That looks like some kind of jeep.
Back when I bought my first Toyota (1985 SR5 Xtracab 4x4), the gvt was penalizing the 4Runner, since it had a backseat. Toyota smiled politely and began shipping them in without the backseat and installing backseats after they were unloaded...
When I saw Mad Max, I asked the guys at work what the heck that car was. One guy, a MOPAR fan, said he thought it was an AMX. I didn't know what an AMX was, but that got me into the American underdog, AMC. He was wrong anyway. It was a FORD... http://www.madmaxmovies.com/cars/Replica/Black/index.html
Base Car
The original car is a white 1973 Ford Falcon XB GT Hardtop / Coupe. This was a standard production model available in Australia from 1973 to 1976. Being a GT, it automatically came with a 300bhp 351ci V8, 4V heads, top loader, 9 inch diff - pretty much all the standard XB GT coupe features.
For a replica, it is obviously easiest to start with an XB coupe. It doesn't have to be a GT, and is probably a cheaper project if it isn't (the only GT based replica I know of so far is LAST-V8). You can buy a GT bonnet, side flutes and so on, so your standard GS coupe will end up looking the goods anyway.
You could also use an XA or XC coupe, but to get the replica correct you would have to do a lot more body work - it's probably cheaper to start with an XB if you're aiming to be 100% correct at the end. Of course, if you're aiming for some individuality, you may wish to try something a bit different anyway. Some people are aiming to make their cars 100% correct to the film, and others have changed a few things to their own personal taste. Do what you prefer - don't let someone else tell you what to do. Maybe your first step should be to take a look at the fan cars page, to see what others have done.
Base Car
The original car is a white 1973 Ford Falcon XB GT Hardtop / Coupe. This was a standard production model available in Australia from 1973 to 1976. Being a GT, it automatically came with a 300bhp 351ci V8, 4V heads, top loader, 9 inch diff - pretty much all the standard XB GT coupe features.
For a replica, it is obviously easiest to start with an XB coupe. It doesn't have to be a GT, and is probably a cheaper project if it isn't (the only GT based replica I know of so far is LAST-V8). You can buy a GT bonnet, side flutes and so on, so your standard GS coupe will end up looking the goods anyway.
You could also use an XA or XC coupe, but to get the replica correct you would have to do a lot more body work - it's probably cheaper to start with an XB if you're aiming to be 100% correct at the end. Of course, if you're aiming for some individuality, you may wish to try something a bit different anyway. Some people are aiming to make their cars 100% correct to the film, and others have changed a few things to their own personal taste. Do what you prefer - don't let someone else tell you what to do. Maybe your first step should be to take a look at the fan cars page, to see what others have done.
The Blower
The supercharger is made by Weiand (pronounced "why and"). They make twisted-vane, roots-style superchargers for many after market applications. The system uses a GM 6-71 case as the base, and a Scott injector hat at the top.
On the movie car, this was all faked. The supercharger was empty and the carburettor sat inside. A small water pump was attached to the front of the supercharger to hold the drive wheel, this also moved the supercharger belt forward to clear the standard 351 water pump assembly, and the distributor has a 90 degree elbow to allow it to clear the supercharger. The supercharger belt is driven by an electric motor which is hidden by a yellow bucket in the garage scene in MM1. Weiand never had a supercharger that could be activated and deactivated. Even with huge compression it would be tough to generate 600bhp on a 351 in 1974 without rebuilding it once every couple of hundred miles.
Of course, most people building replicas have not duplicated the above convoluted setup, and have opted for a variety of different setups to duplicate the same basic effect. As long as the blower sits at the right height out of the bonnet, and the pulley spins, it doesn't matter too much what method you use to hook it all up.
Once again, if you want to know all there is to know about superchargers, and see a LOT of pictures, I will direct you to Steve Pilant's web site. He collected a lot of information and pictures, and could tell you more than I ever possibly could. Doug McQuillan has also collected together a good series of pages, and you should also take a look at his web site.
If an original Scott Injector hat is too expensive for you (and it is for most people), it is worth noting that as of September 2003, reproduction hats are now available. This has been primarily organised by Doug McQuillan at www.madmaxcar.com, with the parts themselves being manufactured by Dave Jensen in California. Basic reproduction units are available now, and true EFI units are expected to be available by November 2003. The replica part is available for purchase through either Doug's site at www.madmaxcar.com, or Rod Horner's site at www.madmaxparts.com. The pictures below (also from Doug's site) show an original hat along side a replica item.
Rumour #2
What engine modifications were made to the black on black?
There have been several different rumours floating around about the engine used in the car. I can guarantee you that the car has had exactly the same engine in it now that it had in it when it left the factory - a factory standard Cleveland 351 V8 engine (again, check the History for this info).
Base Car
The original car is a white 1973 Ford Falcon XB GT Hardtop / Coupe. This was a standard production model available in Australia from 1973 to 1976. Being a GT, it automatically came with a 300bhp 351ci V8, 4V heads, top loader, 9 inch diff - pretty much all the standard XB GT coupe features.
For a replica, it is obviously easiest to start with an XB coupe. It doesn't have to be a GT, and is probably a cheaper project if it isn't (the only GT based replica I know of so far is LAST-V8). You can buy a GT bonnet, side flutes and so on, so your standard GS coupe will end up looking the goods anyway.
You could also use an XA or XC coupe, but to get the replica correct you would have to do a lot more body work - it's probably cheaper to start with an XB if you're aiming to be 100% correct at the end. Of course, if you're aiming for some individuality, you may wish to try something a bit different anyway. Some people are aiming to make their cars 100% correct to the film, and others have changed a few things to their own personal taste. Do what you prefer - don't let someone else tell you what to do. Maybe your first step should be to take a look at the fan cars page, to see what others have done.
Base Car
The original car is a white 1973 Ford Falcon XB GT Hardtop / Coupe. This was a standard production model available in Australia from 1973 to 1976. Being a GT, it automatically came with a 300bhp 351ci V8, 4V heads, top loader, 9 inch diff - pretty much all the standard XB GT coupe features.
For a replica, it is obviously easiest to start with an XB coupe. It doesn't have to be a GT, and is probably a cheaper project if it isn't (the only GT based replica I know of so far is LAST-V8). You can buy a GT bonnet, side flutes and so on, so your standard GS coupe will end up looking the goods anyway.
You could also use an XA or XC coupe, but to get the replica correct you would have to do a lot more body work - it's probably cheaper to start with an XB if you're aiming to be 100% correct at the end. Of course, if you're aiming for some individuality, you may wish to try something a bit different anyway. Some people are aiming to make their cars 100% correct to the film, and others have changed a few things to their own personal taste. Do what you prefer - don't let someone else tell you what to do. Maybe your first step should be to take a look at the fan cars page, to see what others have done.
The Blower
The supercharger is made by Weiand (pronounced "why and"). They make twisted-vane, roots-style superchargers for many after market applications. The system uses a GM 6-71 case as the base, and a Scott injector hat at the top.
On the movie car, this was all faked. The supercharger was empty and the carburettor sat inside. A small water pump was attached to the front of the supercharger to hold the drive wheel, this also moved the supercharger belt forward to clear the standard 351 water pump assembly, and the distributor has a 90 degree elbow to allow it to clear the supercharger. The supercharger belt is driven by an electric motor which is hidden by a yellow bucket in the garage scene in MM1. Weiand never had a supercharger that could be activated and deactivated. Even with huge compression it would be tough to generate 600bhp on a 351 in 1974 without rebuilding it once every couple of hundred miles.
Of course, most people building replicas have not duplicated the above convoluted setup, and have opted for a variety of different setups to duplicate the same basic effect. As long as the blower sits at the right height out of the bonnet, and the pulley spins, it doesn't matter too much what method you use to hook it all up.
Once again, if you want to know all there is to know about superchargers, and see a LOT of pictures, I will direct you to Steve Pilant's web site. He collected a lot of information and pictures, and could tell you more than I ever possibly could. Doug McQuillan has also collected together a good series of pages, and you should also take a look at his web site.
If an original Scott Injector hat is too expensive for you (and it is for most people), it is worth noting that as of September 2003, reproduction hats are now available. This has been primarily organised by Doug McQuillan at www.madmaxcar.com, with the parts themselves being manufactured by Dave Jensen in California. Basic reproduction units are available now, and true EFI units are expected to be available by November 2003. The replica part is available for purchase through either Doug's site at www.madmaxcar.com, or Rod Horner's site at www.madmaxparts.com. The pictures below (also from Doug's site) show an original hat along side a replica item.
Rumour #2
What engine modifications were made to the black on black?
There have been several different rumours floating around about the engine used in the car. I can guarantee you that the car has had exactly the same engine in it now that it had in it when it left the factory - a factory standard Cleveland 351 V8 engine (again, check the History for this info).
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