Choosing a knife for a B.O.B or survival type situation.

[ez bake]

Here's Benchmade's page on Steels:

http://www.benchmade.com/about_knives/our_blades.asp



Here's Spyderco's Steel chart:

http://www.spyderco.com/edge-u-cation/steelchart.html


Here's some terms and info on the anatomy of a knife:

http://www.jayfisher.com/Knife_Anatomy_Parts_Names_Definitions.htm

 

[JD8]

EZ, thanks for posting all the helpful information, but what do you recommend? Rather what brands have that full tang construction that won't break the bank?

 

[ez bake]

EZ, thanks for posting all the helpful information, but what do you recommend? Rather what brands have that full tang construction that won't break the bank?

Well, for carbon steel knives that I plan on maintaining (or smothering in grease when stored), ESEE or Becker make several in 1095 that are hard to beat. I personally like a small slicer, a mid-sized knife the size of an ESEE 3/4 and a machete, but lots of folks go for bigger chopper-sized knives and seem to do just fine (the ESEE 5 is a massive knife).

TOPS makes some good knives (also in 1095), but most models are way too thick for me personally. Once you get above 1095, it's all about preference in my opinion (you're choices are also limited - more into the higher-production models or customs).

I like the higher-end steels, but the price goes up with the cost of materials. ZDP-189 is a good choice (Spyderco makes a few fixed-blades in ZDP-189). D2 steel is one of my favorites. It's a tool-steel and it's not as stain-able as 1095, plus it holds it's edge for a looooong time and you can rough-sharpen to a toothy edge and it smooths out without dulling under quite a bit of use. You've got quite a few choices for fixed-blades in D2.

Benchmade's Bone Collector series (fixed-blades), and their Adamas knives are good D2 full-tang designs for not too much cash.

Steels like CPM-M4 and Super-Blue are kick-ass, but don't really make good "survival" or stored BOB knives as they're really rust-prone (and man they're beautiful before they start to rust/patina - I hate to see them spot up ).

For stainless / semi-stainless knives... There's a ton of choices out there, but the Busse-kin knives in INFI are nice (again, a little on the thick side for me). You've got the venerable S-30V and it's newer cousin, S35VN (both tool-steels). Spyderco made a few fixed-blades in this steel, Benchmade makes several fixed-blades in this and ATS-34 (154CM's overseas cousin). You've got 154CM (Bill Coye does things with this steel that a lot of other folks can't achieve - it's a very high-performance steel once it's heat-treated and tempered correctly and his tempering process is elaborate to say the least).

I personally love VG-10. It doesn't have the greatest edge-retention, but it's extremely easy to sharpen to a razor-edge. It's a Japanese steel, and I don't think any production knife companies make knives in VG-10 domestically (they're all made in Japan that I know of). Spyderco, and Al Mar are favorites in this steel.

Your less-expensive stainless options are knives made from AUS8, Sandvic steels (like 14C28N), Chinese 8CR steels (like 8CR13MOV - which despite being Chinese are very good steels if tempered/heat-treated correctly). I don't consider these to be better than 1095 overall, but that's my opinion. The Sky is the limit when it comes to these. I personally stick with manufacturers like Kershaw, Boker, and Spyderco.

At the end of the day, you want to choose based on how it fits your needs (and your hand), as well as how easy it is to maintain, as well as the quality of construction and quality/performance of the materials and then put that up against what you can/want-to spend.

Here's Jim Ankerson's edge-retention test:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...based-on-Edge-Retention-cutting-5-8-quot-rope

What I have done is rank the steels in Categories based on edge retention cutting 5/8" manila rope. We are looking for big differences here, not ranking the steels in order such as 1,2,3,4,5. The categories or groups mean that one can expect those steels in that category to have close to the same performance as the other steels in the same category. The categories are ranked in order by edge retention, category 1 will have better performance than category 2 etc.

The Custom Phil Wilson knives in M390 (62) and ELMAX (62) are not added to the data, they wouldn't fit into any of the Categories due to the Optimal HT and cutting ability, the difference is off the scale percentage wise so it wasn't added.

The Testing Process is as follows:

Cutting 5/8" Manila rope on a Scale with wood to cut on. The scale was calibrated for the weight of the wood. Making 3 to 4 slicing cuts from back to tip using the least amount of down force needed to get the starting down force. Once that was established 20 cuts were made then down force was tested again and that continued until 20 LBS was reached.

All the knives started at 14 ~ 15 LBS of down force except for M390 because it cuts so aggressively.

Accuracy is to + or - 10 Cuts and + or - 1 LB of down force or 6%. This was verified doing a blind test of blades of unknown hardness until they were tested after. 2 blades of the same hardness and steel, sharpened the same and same model of knife.

RC hardness is + or - 1 RC on the steels that were tested as the standard of RC testing.

All edges were at 30 degrees inclusive and polished to 6000 grit on the Edge Pro, sharpness was tested by slicing TP clean.

The following data is the results that I got based on the above method, while not conclusive or the end all beat all data it is very accurate.

More steels will be added as they are tested.

Category 1

CPM-S90V (Military and Para 2) (60)
CTS-20CP (Para 2) (60)
M390 (Mule) (60.5)

Category 2

M390 (60)
CPM M4 (62.5)
CPM-S90V (59) (Manix 2 with 30 Degree Micro Bevel)
CPM-S60V
VANAX 75 (Kershaw Tilt)

Category 3

Vanax 35 (59.5)


Category 4

ZDP-189 (65)
CPM-154 (62)
ELMAX (60)
CTS-XHP (Military) (60+)
Super Blue (61.5)


Category 5

S30V (60)
VG-1
CPM - D2 (62)
N690
ATS-34 (59)
CPM-S35VN (59)
N680

Category 6

INFI
154CM (61)
14C28N

Category 7

VG-10
S30V (58.5)
AUS-8A
SG-2
5160 (55)
13C26N
X-15

Category 8

H-1

Category 9

CTS-BD1
Last edited by Ankerson; 10-23-2011 at 08:46 AM.

 

[kennedy]

i combined the use of the lmf-II and I also have one of the gerber gator Jr. machettes on my pack as well. Bases covered.

 

[Kid Glock]

I'm not a knife or knife steel expert but I bought 10 Cetme bayonets with issue sheaths for $2 a piece and so far they work ok for my use, which isn't a true test of anything.
I don't know about taking or holding an edge as I do more chopping than slicing so have never tried to get them razor sharp. Have not measured them but size wise they remind me of the Glock knives, which don't seem to take an edge very well and was what I was looking for when I found the cetmes. The 10 cetmes cost less than one glock knife. After each use I wipe them clean then apply some paste wax and have never had any rust issues. Dunno what steel they are, they're just spanish bayos. But for the price I can't complain.

 

[shotty]

Swiss Army camper, or a leatherman. A set of tweezers, a awl or saw may come in handy.

 

[SoonerTactical]

Anza Boddington, without question

http://www.anzaknives.com/

http://www.themartialist.com/pecom/anzaduneslayerboddingtonreview.pdf (pimping my own published review of my very own Boddington, given to me by Charlie Davis)

 

[septic_shock]

+1 Spec Ops Grunt and SuperDave. I have a Mora on para order in a Kydex sheath that goes around my neck and a Cold Steel Bushman. One for heavy work and one for everything else. Both tough as nails, and both will strike fire steel if need be.

 

[whiskeysnoot]

Are you serious about utility/survival or just want your BOB to look cool? I always have one of these with me and sometimes all four. If limited to two it would be the Leatherman and machete. If one, the Leatherman. Unless in Zombieland. Then it's machete all the way. If you're really talking BOB/survival then we are not concerned with concealed carry or law enforcement. In addition, I personally think that serrated blades are for those who cannot sharpen a blade BUT for BOB/survival you may not have your sharpening kit with you and a serrated will continue to hack through after the smooth edge is done.

 

[Werewolf]

For simple short term bug out the shorter blade knives being recommended here would fit the bill perfectly.

But for a survival knife (depending I suppose on how one defines survival) a fixed blade knife that can double as a hatchet in a pinch can't be beat. Gotta have some heft to it, made of good steel and hold an edge. This one would fit that bill perfectly:

Cold Steel Natchez

2.2 lbs of VG-1 San Mai III steel and a synth handle that you don't have to worry about wearing out, banging up, leather and/or wood rot etc.

Sucker runs $350+ depending on where you buy it. The San Mai steel is top of the line which is why the cost. Cold Steel makes the same model in a less expensive steel if price is an issue.