dryfiring

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Harp13

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This is a good idea of a tool. I am certain the refacing seat on the tool is flat, but it the picture it does not look flat. Does anyone have one of these that can confirm - I would figure it'd need to be flat and true.

yes, there is a flat spot on the taper. As noted earlier, it does not address the dimple, but does smooth the burrs in the chamber that will cause feeding issues.

I bought a similar one from Brownell's years ago that had a metal handle that would just fit in a Chiappa .22lr upper that I had. Worked very well.

The issue arose from magazines that would not hold the bolt open and there would be a dry fire every time the magazine emptied.

I ended up buying some wall anchors that fit the chamber and would prevent the firing pin from hitting the face. I just loaded one of these in the magazine before any ammunition.

The ones I ordered in 2016 fit better than my order last year.

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Catt57

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yes, there is a flat spot on the taper. As noted earlier, it does not address the dimple, but does smooth the burrs in the chamber that will cause feeding issues.

I bought a similar one from Brownell's years ago that had a metal handle that would just fit in a Chiappa .22lr upper that I had. Worked very well.

The issue arose from magazines that would not hold the bolt open and there would be a dry fire every time the magazine emptied.

I ended up buying some wall anchors that fit the chamber and would prevent the firing pin from hitting the face. I just loaded one of these in the magazine before any ammunition.

The ones I ordered in 2016 fit better than my order last year.

View attachment 534229


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The guy above mentioning a Ruger revolver did not mention type/age....generally Rugers are safe to dryfire and manuals say so, as the firing pin is SUPPOSED to be too short to hit cylinder or edge of chamber, but now and again one sneaks through, so any sign of empty impact means cease and desist, and send it back for repair or install new pin own self or file pin.
Many guns not safe to dry fire, too many to list. Always go with what manufacturer says, then double check. Snap caps are not always a fix except to protect chamber, while many type firearms have a retaining crosspin for firing pin which is damaged by excess firing pin fwd movement, and snap caps do not have the firm stop to firing pin travel which real ammo provides.
My revolver is a Ruger Wrangler.
 

turkeyrun

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Yes it might be better if you had one.
The only part my round file touched was the tiny dent that protruded into the chamber.
Yes it would have been nice if I had a swage and in theory the metal should go right back where it was.

I have never heard of that little tool or used one but it looks interesting for sure.

The Ruger I fixed 2 years ago is still in use and is just as reliable and accurate as it was the day I fixed it and a few thousand rounds have been shot through it since then.

That Ruger Wrangler is much more accurate than the Heritage 22 revolver I had and that one was never dry fired. Props to Ruger.

You could not hit a rabbit with the Heritage at 40 feet with any ammo.
Maybe I got a lemon.


Through various trades and deals, I have had 6 Heritage .22s. ALL 6 were incapable of hitting a 5 gal bucket lid consistently at 40 yards. All are long gone, replaced with 3 Ruger.

For snap caps, plastic drywall anchors are the perfect solution.
 

Letfreedomring

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This is my biggest complaint about my savage 64 precision rifle in that it doesn't have lrbho. So after emptying the mag you get the annoying click of fp falling on an empty chamber. I guess I could always load snap caps as first round in each mag or count shots, but for the price I paid for rifle, I'll just run it as is and either reform chamber when needed or replace fp if I start getting light strikes. Not going to lose sleep over it.
 

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