I spoiled myself and bought a new polaris xp 1000 sport and want to hear your theories on the best break in procedure. TIA
I am sure there is instructions with it. but here ya go off the web.
| 1. Fill the fuel tank with gasoline. |
| 2. Check the oil level, add recommended oil as needed to maintain safe operating range. |
| 3. Read/study the owners manual’s new operator safe driving procedures. |
| 4. Perform the entire recommended Pre-Ride inspection. |
| 5. Avoid aggressive use of the brakes. See Brake System break-in. |
| 6. Constantly vary throttle position, do not operate at sustained idle. |
| 7. Only carry light loads. |
| 8. Perform first initial “break-in” oil & filter change at first 25 hours or one month. See “Engine oil & filter change procedure” in maintenance section. |
| 9. Check fluid levels of transmission and all gearcases after the first 25 hours and 100 hours thereafter. Now I would research what oil and I would bet they have an oil for it where you purchased it. and filters. For me a new auto engine gets 45 minutes of run time max on the first oil and filter and then It gets the same great oil and filter as I do not cheap out on oil. Then I drive it 100- 300 miles and change it all again. My motorcycles got oil changed at 1500 miles most times but if I beat on them it may only be in for a day or 2. But I am off my rocker on maintenance and know about oil shear. |
Yes , Yes, Yes swampratt!!! Earlier is better. On any new equipment I've purchased, be it large or small engine, I've always changed the oil at the quarter and half point of the first recommended change interval.
Example, If recommended change is every 3000, then I change at 750, 1500, 3000, 3000, etc. I do this for my own piece of mind, and because oil is cheap compared to a motor. My theory is to remove any harmful, suspended material from the flow sooner. A new engine can have small, machined, flakes of fury looking to scar your cylinder walls or more. I had a new truck once that spun the main bearings at 4500 miles and required a new short block. What a bummer! After that I couldn't help but envision this start to unfold. I could see in my mind this bearing, slightly shifting, moving about ever so slightly as it was seating in with all those other components trying to snuggle into their spots. The smallest of particles from shaved, worn in new components and any small debris missed on the build best be removed sooner. This won't stop a catastrophic failure like mine had but it could make your Monday Manufactured Motor a Wednesday Wonder years down the road.
Example, If recommended change is every 3000, then I change at 750, 1500, 3000, 3000, etc. I do this for my own piece of mind, and because oil is cheap compared to a motor. My theory is to remove any harmful, suspended material from the flow sooner. A new engine can have small, machined, flakes of fury looking to scar your cylinder walls or more. I had a new truck once that spun the main bearings at 4500 miles and required a new short block. What a bummer! After that I couldn't help but envision this start to unfold. I could see in my mind this bearing, slightly shifting, moving about ever so slightly as it was seating in with all those other components trying to snuggle into their spots. The smallest of particles from shaved, worn in new components and any small debris missed on the build best be removed sooner. This won't stop a catastrophic failure like mine had but it could make your Monday Manufactured Motor a Wednesday Wonder years down the road.
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Just what the two previous posters said. What you should be getting from this is, it is critical that you get the first three oil changes at or before recommended intervals. Be sure and make service schedule the first year for linkage adjustment and such.
Drive it like you stole it.
Don't slam on the breaks for a while.
Change the oil when you should.
Best follow Polaris recommendations to the T to fulfill your Warranty. You service it yourself, keep receipts and such for proof. After your warranty has expired, reach out and I can show you what to use instead of Polaris Fluids. Will cut that expense by over half. They are easy to service. One bit of advice, you should go over every Bolt /Nut you can reach and make sure tight. And if removing a Bolt/Nut in the future, use anti seize going back. I serviced Polaris products at my shop for years and I have owned 9 RZRs and forgot how many ATVs. I rebuilt the motors for warranty work as well. Have fun. Extended warranty helps on such toys, the off road beats the hell out of them. And most don’t do the check out maintenance needed after every ride. They will just wash them and go the next time. Maintenance and car checks after beating on them are your friend.
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Thank you, are you really going to make me wait for your recommendation until after warranty? Lol
I bought one of the first RZR 800s that was released in 08. I voided the warranty the first day, stripped it and built a custom cage that was worthy of saving a life. Then I started in on the engine. I did some research and found the front drive system was made by a Hilliard Mfg. Same company that builds the elect engagement sprague on Vermeer Hay Swathers we use on the farms. I was not falling for the colored fluids that Polaris stated to only use. I called Hilliard Mfg and spoke to a service engineer. Asked him what they put in the elect engagement units they built. He said they are shipped with Mobil 424 and Polaris drains it and puts in the colored version. Mobile 424 can be bought at Tractor Supply, it is a hydraulic/gear oil. $21 for a 2 gallon jug.. Beat Polaris price of $35 a qt.
Then on to the other fluids in the transmission and transfer case. Same fluids. Engine oil and rear final drive take different fluids. I was also along that time finishing up the US on Goldwings. Long story short, I used Rotella 15w40 in all the wings I used, all the ATV’s and UTVs and in all my Dodge diesel powered trucks. As well as Walmart Supertech Filters who by the way are mfg by Champion. I put over 200k miles on each of the 6 Goldwings I used, used the same Rotella Oil in every ATV and UTV as well. It will stand up to the high revving oil shear that small engines has. It simply does not break down.
But till your warranty is gone, so as they ask to fulfill warranty.
Here are the first few RZRs we ran. The second and third ones were the two we raced with for 7 years.
That second photo of a 09 800s I had at 130 HP at the wheel, I built a full Trinity Engine in it, factory was 56hp.
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The bad news is that I didn’t know it is a new model and I haven’t been able to find aftermarket accessories. Sure, I can get oem but they are high. 
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