Ford 5.4l 3v Triton timing set replacement

[turkeyrun]

My '06 needed phasers and timing belt at 228k. No long block needed. Those "small" oil passages are such a problem. Haven't run ANYTHING but Mobil1 10w30, since new. Changed oil and filter every 15k. Pulled 30' RV, boat, hay trailers, car trailer, cattle trailer and horse trailer. Awesome engine, EXCEPT for those 2 piece plugs ('04-'08). Would love to throat punch that idiot.

My brother had a '99 5.4L- 2V, not as much power, but good motor with normal plugs.

Grandson got the '06. I have the 5.0 Coyote, now. Less HP, less torque, less gas milage than the Triton. Only 80k miles, so far. Longevity to be determined. It will pull the RV, but takes a bunch of gasoline and don't be in a hurry.

Wish I had my '89 F-250 460cid back, that thing would pull.

 

[HiredHand]

I’m going to dig into it and do a bit of my own diagnosing before we go the route of timing and/or long block replacement. Watching the videos by FordTechMakuloco has giving me a few ideas and questions before diving in and just replacing expensive parts.

 

[TANSTAAFL]

That is what I despise about instant oil change places, they feel they are oil consultants. I do not know how many time they have suggested a lower quality oil with different specifications than listed on the old 710 Cap (Rotate it around it says OIL.)

Oil "Tech": "Sir, we at Sir Lube's A Lot recommend you use Quaker State Q 60 weight because it's summer."

Me: "No thank you, I'll take the Motorcraft Synthetic 5W20 please."

Pil "Tech": "That'll be $30 extra..."

Actually have found oil changes most of the time are cheaper at the dealership.

 

[Shadowrider]

Actually have found oil changes most of the time are cheaper at the dealership.

Absolutely. When I bought the ex (but then current) a Subaru Crosstrek, they had some crazy bypass pressure spec on the oil filter. The only aftermarket filter that met it was a Wix part number. The car came due a change before I found that out, so I took it into the dealer. I noticed that they charged $12.95 in labor for the change.

From that point on I took them that Wix filter and 5 quarts of Amsoil synthetic. They charged me $1.something for the oil plug gasket that "had to be replaced at every change". So I got all my oil changes done for about $15 from there on out with me bringing my own stuff. I ain't messing with changing it or disposing of the old oil for 15 bucks...

 

[trekrok]

I always change my own oil, but it's because of lack of trust, not money. I know that the drain plug won't be put on with a breaker bar. Filter won't be gorillaed on. Won't pay for a certain oil and then get their bulk. And so on.

 

[SoonerP226]

I have the 5.0 Coyote, now. Less HP, less torque, less gas milage than the Triton.

Unless you’re running E85 in the Triton, the Coyote has more HP and more torque than the 5.4.

The ‘13 F-150 Coyote is 360hp/380lb-ft, and the ‘10 Triton 3V is 310hp/365ft-lbs on regular gas. They both up the output on E85, but I couldn’t find the E85 numbers for the Coyote in a quick search.

 

[TANSTAAFL]

Absolutely. When I bought the ex (but then current) a Subaru Crosstrek, they had some crazy bypass pressure spec on the oil filter. The only aftermarket filter that met it was a Wix part number. The car came due a change before I found that out, so I took it into the dealer. I noticed that they charged $12.95 in labor for the change.

From that point on I took them that Wix filter and 5 quarts of Amsoil synthetic. They charged me $1.something for the oil plug gasket that "had to be replaced at every change". So I got all my oil changes done for about $15 from there on out with me bringing my own stuff. I ain't messing with changing it or disposing of the old oil for 15 bucks...

Another Pet Peeve of Instant Oil Change Places, tire pressure. The "techs" read the maximum pressure on the tire, then fill it to that. I have had that happen 3 X in the past. I always have a tire pressure gauge with me and always check after. 45 lbs/sq inch in a Mustang's rear tires is not good. Dealership I have learned to tell them 33 lbs/sq inch all around. They do it. If I don't I end up with 30 or 31. I really don't care about ride difference. If I'll be racing I just drain 'em down to 26 or 28 in back.

I know this is a bit off topic, but the 5.4 Cam phaser deal is an expensive or a pain to fix and or and preventable. Modern engines can last a long time, provided proper maintenance. Ford mod motors are pretty good, they just need to be taken care of properly.

 

[turkeyrun]

That is what I despise about instant oil change places, they feel they are oil consultants. I do not know how many time they have suggested a lower quality oil with different specifications than listed on the old 710 Cap (Rotate it around it says OIL.)

Oil "Tech": "Sir, we at Sir Lube's A Lot recommend you use Quaker State Q 60 weight because it's summer."

Me: "No thank you, I'll take the Motorcraft Synthetic 5W20 please."

Pil "Tech": "That'll be $30 extra..."

Actually have found oil changes most of the time are cheaper at the dealership.

They "recommend" what they have in the 55 gal drum, not the qts.

Wif's Lincoln goes to dealership. It is cheaper and ANYTHING they can do, that is under warranty, DO IT. They rotate tires and check brakes, along with 50 other things. Pretty good deal, IMO.

 

[HiredHand]

Update… 08 Ford F-150 5.4L

The original issue with the truck was poor idle/dying when coming to a stop. It would otherwise run down the road without any issue. There was a particular lack lack of maintenance that I also noted. The truck has approximately 198,000 miles on it.

More recently, the truck was pushing coolant out the pressure cap and is why the BIL parked. He was convinced that it would take $$$ to get the truck drivable.

I pulled the OBDII codes and got P0012, P0022, P0303, P0305, P0316, P0345, and P0349. I also got a code that indicated the engine temps had gotten high due the the cooling system issues.

A diagnosed the radiator cap was bad and replaced it. That stopped the rapid loss of coolant (water at this point), but the system was still building enough pressure to try and push coolant out, just not very quickly. Next pulled the thermostat and found it was also bad. Noted some corrosion inside the cooling system while changing the thermostat, too. New thermostat installed, refilled the cooling system and test drove it. The system performed exactly as it was supposed to and there was no loss of coolant or excessive pressure signs. Drained cooling system and refilled with water and added cooling system cleaner. There was a lot of crud in the radiator. It’s probably going to take several cleanings to get this one back it good shape. One potential big issue resolved.

After watching several of FordTechMakuloco’s videos on the 5.4L Triton motors and recognizing the symptoms the truck exhibited are fairly typical in vehicles that haven’t been well maintained, I performed the get you home test and disconnected the VCT solenoids which means the phasers don’t operate once the vehicle gets above idle. Essentially, the error codes were telling me that the VCT Solenoids were stuck and the timing was over retarded which causes stumbling issue when coming back to idle like when you come to a stop. Disconnecting the solenoids resolved the drivability issue immediately. The truck does lack some power now, but is drivable.

So far the rest of the error codes have not come back after clearing the codes. I’m going to have the BIL continue to drive the truck and see if we get any further codes to pop up.

The truck will definitely need to have the complete timing serviced as that is part of regular proper maintenance, including new VCT solenoids. I’ll recommend we do the plugs as well.

I mentioned that several people told him that he would need a new engine. At this point, I’m not convinced that will be necessary. I checked the crankshaft endplay and I couldn’t detect any movement. The harmonic balancer is sitting close to the timing cover as it should be. I’ll preform an oil pressure test in a few days to see if the motor still has good oil pressure. If we pull the valve covers to install new VCT solenoids, we will really be able to see more of the engine condition.

So far the truck is running better than it’s run in over a year and I’m into for less than $100 in parts and materials.

To be continued…