Ford 5.4l 3v Triton timing set replacement

[HiredHand]

Anyone replaced the timing set on a 5.4l Triton themselves? I noticed there are some knockoffs of the OTC tools on Amazon that are much cheaper than the actual OTC Tools. Or have anyone done the job and still have the tools?

My BIL has an 08 F-150 with 190,000 miles on it and the local shops are recommending a long block over the timing set replacement. The timing set job doesn’t look particularly difficult, but definitely time intensive.

 

[Shadowrider]

Mine doesn't need it yet, knocks on wood....But why are they saying long block? These will easily last 300k miles if maintained. Have they actually diagnosed it? The cam phasers are quite oil pressure dependent and a long block is the easy button on that, but there are delete kits for them that can be done while doing the timing set. Have they ran oil pressure and compression tests or are they just trying to fix it with a new engine?

Here's a protip for you for when it's fixed. Run 10W30 oil in it. Full synthetic and good quality. That goes a long ways towards preventing these problems. These engines are spec'd at 5W20 oil here in the U.S. but in Australia they spec 10W30 for the same exact engine. I run 10W30 Amsoil in mine. No issues yet at 128k miles. Phasers are quiet and well behaved.

 

[madokie]

here's the best "tools" to "fix" a 5.4 3V,,, if u cant get a hold of them, u can always take your truck up to OFASTS in eastern OK, they will tow it out to the 200 yard line and after a couple of hours it will never need repair again..LOL.. the oil passages are way too small in a oem block,they get clogged up with sludge,, morons believe that 10,000 mile oil change nonsence,,,, thats why they want to do a long block,as it will have the oil passages drilled out to a larger size..i dont think u can do that with block in truck..

 

[Shadowrider]

here's the best "tools" to "fix" a 5.4 3V,,, if u cant get a hold of them, u can always take your truck up to OFASTS in eastern OK, they will tow it out to the 200 yard line and after a couple of hours it will never need repair again..LOL.. the oil passages are way too small in a oem block,they get clogged up with sludge,, morons believe that 10,000 mile oil change nonsence,,,, thats why they want to do a long block,as it will have the oil passages drilled out to a larger size..i dont think u can do that with block in truck..

How many miles did you get outta yours?

The "oil passages are too little and restrictive" mantra is not correct. Many of these engines are putting in long mileage, far too many to indicate an inherent design problem. The problem is people do what Ford tells them and unknowingly use the wrong oil. Add to that using the wrong oil thats cheap at the quick lube and also letting it go too far between changes and you end up with problems pretty quickly. Not the owner's fault really, it's just that Ford shoulda listened to their engineers instead of uncle Sugar with his CAFE standards, they'd have a lot less complaints with people having to mod their engines to make them last.

Now those 2 piece spark plugs.....Those are a completely different story!

 

[HiredHand]

Mine doesn't need it yet, knocks on wood....But why are they saying long block? These will easily last 300k miles if maintained. Have they actually diagnosed it? The cam phasers are quite oil pressure dependent and a long block is the easy button on that, but there are delete kits for them that can be done while doing the timing set. Have they ran oil pressure and compression tests or are they just trying to fix it with a new engine?

Here's a protip for you for when it's fixed. Run 10W30 oil in it. Full synthetic and good quality. That goes a long ways towards preventing these problems. These engines are spec'd at 5W20 oil here in the U.S. but in Australia they spec 10W30 for the same exact engine. I run 10W30 Amsoil in mine. No issues yet at 128k miles. Phasers are quiet and well behaved.

I plan on calling the shop to find out more detail on what they found when they looked at it. I appreciate all those suggestions. Like you said, a long block is the easy option and I’m sure most customers might take that road for the fact that it’s going to be a new engine with a warranty. This truck isn’t a beauty queen, but it is his daily transportation. The truck seems to run amazingly well even with the poor idle and misfires that it has.

He’s just really hesitant to put the money into it that a shop wants to repair the motor or install a long block.

The truck more recently started pushing coolant past the cap. He was afraid to take it to a shop because of what it might cost, and just parked it. I checked the cap and thermostat out, and both were bad. It only took a few bucks and couple minutes of labor to replace both. No more issues with the cooling system.

 

[Shadowrider]

Let us know how it shakes out. These Triton engines get a bad rap. That’s somewhat deserved because of Ford’s specifications and early problems but these later engines can be ran and worked hard. You just can’t put them up wet so to speak, you have to do the maintenance on them.

 

[SoonerP226]

I helped my brother do the timing set on his 5.4L F-150 (I can't recall if it was an '05 or '08, but it had the two-piece plugs). He got it dirt cheap because it needed the timing set done, so even with buying all the parts and tools, he still had like a grand less in it than it was worth.

It's not as easy as changing the plugs and coils on my Coyote, but it was far from the most difficult car repair I've ever done. Watch the FordTechMakuloco YouTube channel's videos on the job; they're pretty much spot-on, and the video description includes the parts and tools list.

Do yourself a favor and get the plug extraction tool if you have the two-piece plugs, and replace the oil pump while you're in there (my brother used a high-flow Melling pump that came highly recommended).

Here's the first video in FordTechMakuloco's series on doing the Triton timing set:

Like I said, make sure you go to the YouTube page so you can see the parts/tools list. I think he might even have torque specs listed on some of the videos.

 

[trekrok]

I did our 2011 expedition. I got the Ford kit and did the upgrade on the higher pressure oil pump. It may have been a melling but don't remember for sure.

I had to replace a bent valve and the passenger cam too, so it was a little bigger job. But, I don't remember it being terribly hard. I also don't remember many special tools. There was a 'cheese' wedge to tension the chain, but that was probably a couple dollars. If you'll let me know what other special tools are involved, I'll look and see what I have.

Personally, rather than replacing the cam phasers, I'd do the lockout kit and get rid of them altogether. It would be cheaper even after the programming, and it gets rid of the problem. Mine is sounding like they are going bad again. I'll either do the lockout this time, or drive it off in the canyon, which would be my preference.

That video that sooner linked is great. That guy knows his stuff.

 

[-Pjackso]

Between the cam phasers and the loosy-goosey timing chain (in an interference engine!) - I have no interest in the Triton engine.
I prefer Ford trucks, but no thank you.

To the OP, best of luck.

 

[madokie]

u can fix this on the cheap,or put it back together and drive it,and or sell it as is running in fair cond,,spend some $$$$$ and fix it,,or part it out,,if u really need a 5.4 get one thats a 2V or a 4.6 either one make sure it has maintence records...