You could use the small 6V lead acid battery and a solar trickle charger to keep it up.
This.
The solar cell can pe positioned several feet away if the game cam is in a shady area.
Are you building a robot, or a really low RPM corn shucker?
Older Chrysler products had voltage reducers from 12v to 6v. Go to NAPA and order an Echlin ICR13. Usually less than 15 bucks.
Hi,
This approach uses a resistor to convert from 12V to 6V and the problem is that the extra 6V is all wasted in the resistor as heat. You would only get half of the battery capacity this way. Then again, if you have a huge battery and don't care that might be workable.
A switching DC-DC converter will use the power in a much more efficient way. For example if the draw of the cameria is 1 amp @ 6 volts, the ICR13 is going to use 1 amp @ 12 volts with extra voltage being converted (wasted) to heat in the resistor. A DC-DC converter will only draw near 1/2 amp @ 12 volts and convert it to 1 amp @ 6 volts for example. In reality they are only 90% efficient, etc. Here is one:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=PT78ST106V-ND
You might also call interstate at this number 918-610-0007, tell them you are looking for a 6V sealed lead acid battery and ask what capacities they have and what prices.
Good luck,
Alan
This approach uses a resistor to convert from 12V to 6V and the problem is that the extra 6V is all wasted in the resistor as heat. You would only get half of the battery capacity this way. Then again, if you have a huge battery and don't care that might be workable.
A switching DC-DC converter will use the power in a much more efficient way. For example if the draw of the cameria is 1 amp @ 6 volts, the ICR13 is going to use 1 amp @ 12 volts with extra voltage being converted (wasted) to heat in the resistor. A DC-DC converter will only draw near 1/2 amp @ 12 volts and convert it to 1 amp @ 6 volts for example. In reality they are only 90% efficient, etc. Here is one:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=PT78ST106V-ND
You might also call interstate at this number 918-610-0007, tell them you are looking for a 6V sealed lead acid battery and ask what capacities they have and what prices.
Good luck,
Alan
Sorry to contradict ya on this one but DON'T do this. Just like alank2 said that part is just a resistor. its value was specifically calculated for an automotive ignition coil which draws between 10 and 12 amps. I HIGHLY doubt that your camera even comes close to 250ma or 0.25 amps ..... Use Ohms law to calculate the value of your resistor and then your output voltage when you apply your cameras load......
not knowing exact figures I guestimate a 1 ohm resistor is what napa is selling and if your camera did draw 250ma (which I think is high) would be a 25 ohm resistor Also, With all that said... thoes numbers would exponentially change in a circuit where the supply voltage will decrease as the battery is depleted. In a vehicle this is not an issue as is is constantly recharged by an alternator
Man Dustin, That is a super idea . Alank2's battery ( or one like it) and the solar charger and you shouldn't have to touch batteries for a long time. Here is one that is a little more expensive then just a standard panel but tailored to being game cameras and deer feeders. http://www.ebay.com/itm/6VOLT-DC-SO...aultDomain_0&hash=item256799c5fd#ht_784wt_907
I dug up the solid state voltage splitter I had and upon testing it exploded. [Broken External Image]
It's actually going to be a long range sniper target that self resets. I've got quite a bit of it put together but am at a standstill until I either get a lathe or con someone into turning the parts I need for me.
Hi,
I'm testing that 6V battery now and so far so good in case the OP is interested in it. Will know the capacity tomorrow morning. 6V solar charger would be ideal for sure.
Thanks,
Alan
I'm testing that 6V battery now and so far so good in case the OP is interested in it. Will know the capacity tomorrow morning. 6V solar charger would be ideal for sure.
Thanks,
Alan
Just to add a little, on a POL converter like that, you'll want to match it to the current draw of the camera. That one example throws out an efficiency of 85%, but this will not be the case at all load conditions. (That 85% was a marketing number, not a true specification. The value of the information of an electronic product is inversely proportional to how close to the top of the datasheet you find it). If you pull the datasheet, you'll see that efficiency was measured with a current draw of 1A. Furthermore, to stop the efficiency from dropping off, it needs to have a load approx >= 250mA. Also, I suspect the game camera is an intermittent load, which means it probably sits in standby drawing just enough power to run a motion sensor. When the sensor trips, it draws power and takes the picture. That converter says it can run down to essentially no load, but this is a non-specified operation condition, and they make mention that it runs this way with reduced performance. My hunch is that it will spend a majority of its time in this low power condition, so you may not see as big of a benefit from the switcher as you originally hoped. You would definitely have to characterize the camera as a load. Is it constant or intermittent? What current draw does it have in each case.
Annnyway...
Hi,
Yep, Larry you are spot on. Knowing the current draw and its pattern would certainly make a big difference in selecting the optimal converter.
BTW, the 6V battery I have tests at 7.478 AH drained to 11.4V. Manufacturers rate batteries drained to 10.5V, but I don't like to put that stress on a battery for testing so I only go to 11.4V and then add 20% to estimate what it would have output to 10.5V, so 7.478*1.2=8.974 AH, or nearly 9 AH. Interestingly, it test better now than it did when I first got it 2 years ago! Anyway, if the OP wants it, drop me a PM. This battery and a solar charger should be a good combo.
Good luck,
Alan
Yep, Larry you are spot on. Knowing the current draw and its pattern would certainly make a big difference in selecting the optimal converter.
BTW, the 6V battery I have tests at 7.478 AH drained to 11.4V. Manufacturers rate batteries drained to 10.5V, but I don't like to put that stress on a battery for testing so I only go to 11.4V and then add 20% to estimate what it would have output to 10.5V, so 7.478*1.2=8.974 AH, or nearly 9 AH. Interestingly, it test better now than it did when I first got it 2 years ago! Anyway, if the OP wants it, drop me a PM. This battery and a solar charger should be a good combo.
Good luck,
Alan
