Inherited guns...know very little about them...please help

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dru

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So my great uncle passed away several years ago and he had several guns that went to his brother (my grandpa) who then gave them to me about a month ago. They are definitely older, and I am trying to get an idea for what they might be worth, what condition they are in (they look pretty beat up to me) and if it is worth restoring them. I don't think I am really looking to sell them right now but maybe someday. I like the connection I feel from them to my great uncle. So here's a blurb about each one, and a link with pictures. I also got what appears to be a Mauser bayonet and what I think is a Hitler Youth Knife (one of my other great uncles and my grandpa both fought in Europe during WWII which is how I'm assuming they got all this stuff) The password for each account is beefcake. I'm weird about the general population of the world seeing these...especially knives with swastikas embedded in the handle. my uncle, being the simple farmer her was, didn't really believe in gun maintenance so these have been cleaned probably zero times. My mother says she never saw him clean them in all the summers she spent with him as a little girl. Also, I should mention that in a contest between preserving collector value and making them functional & looking nice, I will go for the latter everytime with these which is why I'm asking about the re-blueing

Winchester Model 97 12-gauge shotgun
http://s1114.photobucket.com/albums/k533/Beefcake73099/Guns and knives/Winchester Model 97/

Serial number 837XXX - manufactured sometime around 1936. Shotgun looks "ok". The last time i fired it a few years ago it seemed to be functional. the action feels a little gummy though. I believe it is above my skill level to clean thoroughly. Probably will take to a gunsmith for a good cleaning and functionality/safety check. Should I attempt to have this one reblued? Value now? Value after re-blueing? There is some rust, but the bolt face is in good condition and the barrel is in shockingly good condition. At first I was worried when i looked down the barrel but it must have been dirt mostly because it now has a mirror shine and no pitting that I can see. The stock has taken a few dings as well but is otherwise OK

Winchester Model 42 .410 shotgun
http://s1114.photobucket.com/albums/k533/Beefcake73099/Guns and knives/Winchester Model 42/

Serial Number is #10XXX - manufactured around 1934. Shotgun looks ok. This one appears to be functional. The bolt face and what parts of the bolt/action that I can see don't appear to have any noticeable defects. The action on this one is not gummy and cycles smoothly. however, I think it would be wise totake to a competent gunsmith for a thorough cleaning. Any rust that is present on the gun appears to be only on the outside. i've not yet found any on the bolt, other parts of action, barrel, chamber, or other parts that make the gun "work". I believe that the rust, so far, is only cosmetic in nature but if I were certain, I wouldn't be asking here. Also wondering about re-blueing the gun. Curious as to how much it might be worth now vs. after re-blue. I saw some gunbroker auctions for this one and they seemed to be quite high in price. Not sure if there is something about those guns that mine is lacking. Can't imagine a pump action going for that much.

1898 Springfield .30-40 Krag
http://s1114.photobucket.com/albums/k533/Beefcake73099/Guns and knives/Springfield 1898 3040 Krag/

462XXX – this one is a real piece of work. Looks like it used to be a rifle and then based on the crown of the muzzle and a front sight looking like it was welded on by a drunken monkey, I’m going to guess that someone attempted to sporterize it and did a piss poor job of it as well. The action is nice and smooth, but I really think that’s about the end of the positive marks. The stock is cracked horribly, and it had like black electrical tape wrapped around about where the hand would go. The bolt, magazine, and other components have what looks like a lot of gunk, rust, or some combination of the two. Like I said, the action is still really smooth, and everything appears to feed reliably. From what I’ve heard it might be somewhat dangerous to shoot the rifle on account of the bolt having but one locking lug. I’m not sure this thing is worth trying to restore based on what it might be worth, cost of a replacement stock, and general cleaning.

G.33/40
http://s1114.photobucket.com/albums/k533/Beefcake73099/Guns and knives/G3340/

Serial # 2546. At first I thought this was a K98 but found out later it was a G.33/40 The marking on the top of the receiver is stamped with DOT 1942 which I’ve already researched. The bolt and all the components match each other but do not match the receiver. Oh well. I’ve already tried to clean it up somewhat. The blueing is gone on significant parts of the receiver, and the forward part of the barrel. It is also missing the front sight barrel shroud and cleaning rod so if anyone knows where I can find replacement parts I’d be grateful. Barrel in really nice condition, action is nice and smooth. No real rust on the internals of the gun. However, for some reason, my uncle found it necessary to GOUGE into the STOCK, “8 mm Mauser” on BOTH SIDES! I don’t know why he did this. Perhaps he was worried about mixing up the ammo with his 12 gauge shells, I don’t know. I would like to restore this if possible. I don’t want to do a complete number on the stock or replace it because it still has the proof marks on it. He also removed the butt plate because he didn’t like the kick so I have the rubber thing to deal with….hooray. Right now I’m definitely inclined to get it reblued and have someone work on the stock just so it will at least look good. Anywho…..

J.C. Higgins Model 28 .22lr
http://s1114.photobucket.com/albums/k533/Beefcake73099/Guns and knives/JC Higgins Model 28/

Serial # 583.XX Okay I confess I’m not even sure that this is the serial number, but it was the only thing I could find on the barrel (right below the model name/number). This one I’ve managed to take apart and the rusting visible on the outside is not present on the inside. Actually the inside was pretty well caked up with grease and grime but once cleaning all that goop off, it actually looked nice on the inside. Barrel was nice and bright. Didn’t look pitted but I am not sure about that. Seriously don’t know a lot about it other than the fact that gunbroker has them going for $150ish. The stock is in really nice condition for its age I think. Probably will just end up using this as a plinker and for me to work on my marksmanship skills.

Bayonet & Knife
http://s1114.photobucket.com/albums/k533/Beefcake73099/Guns and knives/bayonet and knife/

Bayonet appears to be some sort of German design. Similar pictures make it look like it was a Mauser or K98 bayonet. It does not fit on the G.33/40 though. The wood grips are a little sketchy but the blade is nice.

The knife looks like a Hitler Youth Knife. Found it at my great uncle’s estate sale but didn’t see the swastika until later on that night. I’m not sure if it is authentic or a repro. Most of the things I’ve read about it seem to indicate its original and it would make sense given my relative’s involvement over in Europe at the time. However, I would appreciate any insights into the knife. Values are nice but its mostly just a curiosity to me. I like the history behind it (assuming its authentic) and also because it might be an heirloom either my grandpa or other great uncle brought back from the war.

Anyway, that about does it for this year’s installment of “obscure weapons from deceased country farmers”

Would really appreciate knowing what else anyone here could tell me about them. Feel free to PM if you wish.
 

JB Books

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Those 97's are popular with Cowboy Action Shooters who cut them down a la the Wild Bunch.

The Model 42 commands a premium. My wife bought me one a few Christmas ago, and they are not cheap. Even in rough condition, it should bring a decent price.

The Hitler Youth Knives are pretty common. It depends on the maker and the condition. I didn't see the other side of the blade, does it say "Blut and Ehre?" There were tons of these made and there were lots of repros made in the 60's. Prices vary from $150-800, depending on maker, markings and condition. These are the biggest trap for beginning collectors of Nazi daggers. My best advice is to bring it to the Wannamacher show and show it to a few dealers and make it palin you don't want to sell it. You'll get a more accurate value.

I don't know much about the others.
 

SlammerG_89

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If you had the riot shotgun or trench variant of the model 97 it would be more but even the plane jane model like yours should be worth 300-500.

Here is some info on the mauser: The G33/40 was issued to Alpine ski troops. Fitted with a ZF41 scope it would have been issued to a marksman for short distance sniper duties. The G33/40 was only in production for 3 years, from 1940-1942. It was produced by Waffen Werke Brunn, Brunn. It fired the exact same 7.92mm round, and had the same Mauser 98 action. However, that is where the similarities end. The G33/40 had several different parts that were not matching with the K98. These included: the bolt, stock, cleaning rod, sight hood cover, upper hand guard, barrel bands, sling, and even the bayonet.

Too bad its not all matching as they are very rare and go for upwards of 3,000.
 

Sanjuro82

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Here's my thoughts on the shotguns and rifle.

Winchester Model 97
Current Value - $250-300
Authentically and Properly Restored (Completely Rust Blued or Case Hardened reciever) - $350-550 maybe higher if you find the right buyer

Winchester Model 42
Current value - $1000
Authentically and Properly Restored - Possibly significantly higher if you don't have to replace any parts. $1200-1800

G.33/40
Current Value - $800-1000
Authentically and Properly Restored - $1500

The others aren't really worth restoring IMO.
 

soup

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The bayonet is for an Italian Carcano M-38, it appears to be a fixed-folding bayonet.
Value would be approximately $125.00 to $150.00, if it hasn't been messed with.
This is the fixed blade, made with the full tang. Note the shape of the cross guard.
https://www.libertytreecollectors.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=1629&idcategory=10
This is the folder, note the cross guard is like yours. The Italians found the folders where not very strong and welded
the blade in the open position thus the " fixed folder " was born.
https://www.libertytreecollectors.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=1630&idcategory=10
While the fixed blade is on the lower end of the price scale the folders demand a premium and yours would fall
in the middle.
 
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dru

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OK so if I were going to restore the shotguns and Mauser, what would be involved here? i'm assuming that we're talking a good cleaning, re-blueing, and some improvement on the stock. So does anyone have recommendations on who could do good work? From what i've read, a good proper blue will have to be a hot dip process. I've found some websites that purport to do it but would prefer any recommendations you all would have.

Also, for the stock on the mauser, is it possible to get rid of the gouge marks and get it looking nice again or am I just screwed in that respect? I suppose the stock could be stripped, sanded and refinished but that would destroy those nice marks and I would like to preserve them if possible. What I guess I'm looking for here are recommendations on folks who can do this stuff well, not cheapest. Are there any other things that I am missing with respect to the restoration of these guns?

Thanks a ton
 

Sanjuro82

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I could refinish them if you want. I rust blue instead of hot dip. IMO rust blue is the finest blued finish you can get. Much more durable than hot dip. But also much more labor intensive. I can also refinish the wood. I'll send you a PM with my cell number.
 

soup

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Do not touch the Mauser. A little wipe down with some gun oil and a cleaning is all that needs to be done.
Collectors want it as original as possible. The others I can't tell you if a restore would hurt or help the value.
 

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