This sounds like a good idea.
Vac pack is going to only be partially effective.
Do this:
1. Clean lube gun normally
2. place in Vac pac bag with dessicant
3. Seal vac pack bag
4. Wrap vac pack tightly with aluminum foil (plastic allows air to pass at the molecular level - aluminum foil does not).
5. Vac pac the foil wrapped package
6. Store per preference.
The above is very very similar to the way electronic equipment was packaged when I served in the Navy. I remember one time while at sea we had to replace a radar repeater unit that was totally dead and not repairable. We did an underway transfer of a new unit off a replenishment ship in less than glassy seas. At one point we rolled to starboard and the replinishment ship rolled to port. The radar repeater on its pallet got dunked. Once it was aboard and moved to the space where it was to be installed we undid the packaging and it was dry as a bone. The way the thing was packaged it could have gone to the bottom of the sea and found a million years later by some archeologist and I bet it would be pristine.
Do this:
1. Clean lube gun normally
2. place in Vac pac bag with dessicant
3. Seal vac pack bag
4. Wrap vac pack tightly with aluminum foil (plastic allows air to pass at the molecular level - aluminum foil does not).
5. Vac pac the foil wrapped package
6. Store per preference.
The above is very very similar to the way electronic equipment was packaged when I served in the Navy. I remember one time while at sea we had to replace a radar repeater unit that was totally dead and not repairable. We did an underway transfer of a new unit off a replenishment ship in less than glassy seas. At one point we rolled to starboard and the replinishment ship rolled to port. The radar repeater on its pallet got dunked. Once it was aboard and moved to the space where it was to be installed we undid the packaging and it was dry as a bone. The way the thing was packaged it could have gone to the bottom of the sea and found a million years later by some archeologist and I bet it would be pristine.
I would suggest against packing the dessicant bag directly against the gun.
I did that to a handgun and it rusted the side of the frame, slide and end of the barrel and it was oiled before i put it into the bag.
I did that to a handgun and it rusted the side of the frame, slide and end of the barrel and it was oiled before i put it into the bag.
Cosmoline, plastic bag, big desiccant. Bang! Done.
Go to Harley World and ask (in the shop, not at the desk) if you can have one of the desiccants that ship with the bikes. They are the size of a whale tampon. Should be good for an extra special, long time.
Go to Harley World and ask (in the shop, not at the desk) if you can have one of the desiccants that ship with the bikes. They are the size of a whale tampon. Should be good for an extra special, long time.
Too much desicant in the package with dry out the stock so much it will crack. been there, done that.
The old breakfree lp was nice for long term storage as it would glaze over with a film(crust) after a week or so.
you could pick up the gun a year or two later, touch the metal and the crust would break and reveal the protective oil underneath.
Here is some information that may be of use to those interested in long term weapon storage.
1) Unload weapon. Double Tripple check the weapon is unloaded.
2) Clean weapon inside and out.
Do not just wipe down a "new" weapon and call it good. Lube it all, springs, internal parts, lower hammers and release springs from tension.
3) Lube weapon inside and out with a good oil and or marine grease. Marine grease is cheap and can be found at any auto parts store or Wal-Mart.
4) Vacuum seal weapon.
Place desiccant inside vacuum bag prior to sealing. It is best to use an oiled paper between the desiccant and weapon. You may want to place this desiccant along the stock or grip of the weapon. There are desiccants that come in the shape of small boxes the size of "D" batteries that you could place against the weapon. The box is made of plastic and will not allow moisture absorbed to touch the weapon. It is important to use a quality NEW or rejuvenated / reactivated desiccant. NOT just a few "Do Not Eat" packs you find in a shoe box. Quality desiccants will not release moisture unless exposed to a high heat, such as 200 deg. F. You may want to consider removing stocks, receiver covers, sights / optics prior to vacuum bagging, and vacuum bag these seperate but stored next to the other necessary parts. It is important to vacuum the weapon in a low humidity environment to enhance the effect of the desiccant.
5) Place vaccumed weapon into a MYLAR bag.
MYLAR is a polyester film that has aluminum foil laminated between its layers. This results in a oxygen barrier that is highly puncture resistant and strong. Buy quality MYLAR bags such as 7.5 mil heavy duty. Place Oxygen (O2) Absorbers inside the MYLAR bag. Buy quality O2 absorbers and be aware that once they are opened you have a limited time before their absorption has taken effect and they have been depleted. Ensure the O2 absorber is large enough for the package. I suggest using one that is designed to absorb O2 in an area three times what you are attempting to purge of O2. Meaning if your MYLAR pouch is 500 cc in size I would use an O2 absorber rated for 1500 cc. The O2 absorbers will get warm once activated. This will only last until they have absorbed all O2 or have depleted themseves if left in open air. O2 absorbers cannot be reactivated by heating them like some desiccant can. Do not use "clear" or "colored" MYLAR. Use the standard silver MYLAR as it is the least O2 penetrable.
6) Squeeze out all excessive air in the MYLAR bag and seal bag using a common clothing iron.
The O2 absorber will "shrink down" the MYLAR in a way that is simular to that of the vacuum sealer has. It is important to seal the MYLAR bag in a low humidity environment to enhance the effect of the O2 absorber and not allow moisture to be sealed between the MYLAR and the vacuum bag.
7) Use a sharpy marker to label outside of package.
8) Place in secure location.
9) Use same technique on weapon accessories such as magazines, optics, spare parts.
10) Storing ammunition. Use same guidlines, except do not lube or expose to oil / grease. Once sealed place in GI ammo cans and in a secure location. The GI ammo cans will help protect the packaging from any damage.
Here are a few links to quality MYLAR / O2 / Desiccant manufacturers.
http://sorbentsystems.com
http://sorbentsystems.com/mylar.html
http://sorbentsystems.com/o2absorbers.html
http://sorbentsystems.com/desiccants_dri-box_appl.html
http://www.uline.com/Grp_21/Desiccants?keywords=desiccants
1) Unload weapon. Double Tripple check the weapon is unloaded.
2) Clean weapon inside and out.
Do not just wipe down a "new" weapon and call it good. Lube it all, springs, internal parts, lower hammers and release springs from tension.
3) Lube weapon inside and out with a good oil and or marine grease. Marine grease is cheap and can be found at any auto parts store or Wal-Mart.
4) Vacuum seal weapon.
Place desiccant inside vacuum bag prior to sealing. It is best to use an oiled paper between the desiccant and weapon. You may want to place this desiccant along the stock or grip of the weapon. There are desiccants that come in the shape of small boxes the size of "D" batteries that you could place against the weapon. The box is made of plastic and will not allow moisture absorbed to touch the weapon. It is important to use a quality NEW or rejuvenated / reactivated desiccant. NOT just a few "Do Not Eat" packs you find in a shoe box. Quality desiccants will not release moisture unless exposed to a high heat, such as 200 deg. F. You may want to consider removing stocks, receiver covers, sights / optics prior to vacuum bagging, and vacuum bag these seperate but stored next to the other necessary parts. It is important to vacuum the weapon in a low humidity environment to enhance the effect of the desiccant.
5) Place vaccumed weapon into a MYLAR bag.
MYLAR is a polyester film that has aluminum foil laminated between its layers. This results in a oxygen barrier that is highly puncture resistant and strong. Buy quality MYLAR bags such as 7.5 mil heavy duty. Place Oxygen (O2) Absorbers inside the MYLAR bag. Buy quality O2 absorbers and be aware that once they are opened you have a limited time before their absorption has taken effect and they have been depleted. Ensure the O2 absorber is large enough for the package. I suggest using one that is designed to absorb O2 in an area three times what you are attempting to purge of O2. Meaning if your MYLAR pouch is 500 cc in size I would use an O2 absorber rated for 1500 cc. The O2 absorbers will get warm once activated. This will only last until they have absorbed all O2 or have depleted themseves if left in open air. O2 absorbers cannot be reactivated by heating them like some desiccant can. Do not use "clear" or "colored" MYLAR. Use the standard silver MYLAR as it is the least O2 penetrable.
6) Squeeze out all excessive air in the MYLAR bag and seal bag using a common clothing iron.
The O2 absorber will "shrink down" the MYLAR in a way that is simular to that of the vacuum sealer has. It is important to seal the MYLAR bag in a low humidity environment to enhance the effect of the O2 absorber and not allow moisture to be sealed between the MYLAR and the vacuum bag.
7) Use a sharpy marker to label outside of package.
8) Place in secure location.
9) Use same technique on weapon accessories such as magazines, optics, spare parts.
10) Storing ammunition. Use same guidlines, except do not lube or expose to oil / grease. Once sealed place in GI ammo cans and in a secure location. The GI ammo cans will help protect the packaging from any damage.
Here are a few links to quality MYLAR / O2 / Desiccant manufacturers.
http://sorbentsystems.com
http://sorbentsystems.com/mylar.html
http://sorbentsystems.com/o2absorbers.html
http://sorbentsystems.com/desiccants_dri-box_appl.html
http://www.uline.com/Grp_21/Desiccants?keywords=desiccants
A long time ago, I purchased a Chevy 283 engine for a future project car. Took it apart and slathered white lithium grease all over everything. Years later my father wanted it out of the garage, kept hitting it with the car door. So I sold it to a friend. Took him almost forever to get the grease off. Soaked it in a parts washer for what seemed like weeks. The grease turned into a solid mass, bonding with the engine parts. I'll never use white lithium for long term storage again. Either wheel bearing grease or cosmoline would be my best bet.
