Separate names with a comma.
Welcome to Oklahoma Shooters Association! Join today, registration is easy!
Discussion in 'Gearheads' started by SlugSlinger, Mar 23, 2020.
temp or final install for the solenoid and regulator setup?
Those hubs look slick.
The solenoid setup should be final. I ran the air line from the front locker inside the boxed frame to the rear. I think the solenoid and air chuck is tucked up out of the way and it should be easy access if I need to use the air hose for emergency air. I have the CO2 tank roll bar mount coming tomorrow. We'll see how the 2.5 lbs of CO2 works. I had a 20 lb CO2 tank in the K5 and never ran out of air.
Slight change of plans to the air locker switch. I'm going to delete the solenoid wireless remote and wire directly into the existing hardtop rear defroster circuit and use that as the switch.
The wiring harness is installed for the hardtop, but I do not have a hardtop and don't plan to get one.
I like it.
I sold the hardtop to my LJ earlier this year. I've been asked by several people if I would sell the wiring harness for the hardtop. So far no offer has been high enough for me to go through the headache of separating it out. It has two seperate toggle switches. I'll have to keep this in mind in the future. Having a switched 12v source could come in handy.
The circuit for the defroster is made to handle some high amperage if you need it. It would be plenty for a compressor or the like.
Air locker now has power!
These Warn hubs are sweet!
Had to cover up the Found On Road Dead emblem!
Not much going on now. Got the front 1350 flange and cv driveshaft installed. I’ve adjusted the front and rear pinion angles and believe it’s set good to decrease and or eliminate any driveline vibration.
Tested the front air locker and assembly and it seems to be working like it should.
I’ve been messing with the lighting lately. I like a lot of light shining on the road without irritating on coming drivers. I installed some E Code Hellas with some led bulbs, but the led just doesn’t produce the lumens that HIDs make. And without spending hundreds of dollars, I haven’t found an off the shelf solution.
So I’m going to modify the factory headlight assemblies and install some projectors and HIDs.
There’s lots of videos on how to install projectors, but the Jeep headlight is a lot different than any of the videos I’ve watched, so I’m gonna improvise.
This is where I’m at now. I’ve got the Morimoto HID kit on order. The projectors were cheap amazon items but had good reviews for what that is worth these days with all the fake reviews.
I’ve tested the high beam refractors about 100 times and the assembly seems to work without a failure while testing. I’ve also check the light pattern with a halogen bulb and that seems to good.
To make the assembly fit, I machined an oblong hole on the back of the lense. This lets the assembly fit with the factory lense that is not yet installed.
For those unfamiliar with the projector headlight pattern, it looks like this. The provide a ton of light on the road and none in the eyes of oncoming traffic.
I miss the projector headlights that I had im my 2013 F150. Those were awesome. I swapped out the factory bulbs in my LJ for the Hella assemblies with the H4 bulb.
How much time do you have in massaging the housings for the projectors to fit and aim properly?
I probably have an hour in the lights so far. I used a Couple different size hole saws and drill press to cut the back of the housing. I had to find some additional oem headlights on eBay cause I used too much oven heat to melt the butyl tape to remove one my lenses. I also had to clearance the headlight opening a little due to the cover I’m using for the back housing. It’s a pvc 3” cap.
I probably have another hour at least to finish. I’ve used the Morimoto HID kits in my wife’s 4Runner and the low beams of my truck. Knock on wood, but they have worked well for a couple years in both. The ballast are guaranteed for 5 years on the 35 watt ballast.
I’m going with the 55 watt ballast on the Jeep. They are guaranteed for 3 years.
I will need to wire in the new ballast and controller for the HIDs. That will take most of the time to complete.
Well, I’ve been busy with the Jeep. A couple weeks ago I heard a knocking noise just off idle. I drove the Jeep to my buddies shop to find out that the noise was a bearing knock.
I drove it home and began removing the engine.
I took the pulled motor to the shop and we pulled it apart to find the number 5 & 6 rod bearings had spun. We believe the spun bearings are related to the cracked heads because number 5 was the hole throwing the misfire code and had coolant leaking into the cylinder at night or whenever it sat for some time.
The crank cleaned up with a .10/.10 cut. The two rods were replaced and new lifters and pistons were purchased.
The cylinders looked good and the factory cross hatching was still visible.
He ran everything through the parts washer a few times. He honed all the cylinders to clean things up.
I disassembled the heads, that we just worked, to clean any contamination out. I also cleaned up the castings on the exhaust ports.
He started getting things back together today. Tomorrow he’s cutting the cam gear to index the cam.