New project

[SlugSlinger]

Got the 14 bolt, now a 13 bolt installed. Found out I need an adjustable track bar, longer shocks, extend the sway bar links, new emergency brake cables, figure out the brake lines and a 45” rear driveshaft due to the 1410 size unjoint.

Here’s some pics for comparison. The factory Dana 44 with an 8.5” ring gear compared to a corporate 14 with a 10.5” ring gear.

 

[SlugSlinger]

I’m getting closer to wrapping up the easy axle installation. The new parking brake cables should be here Thursday.
I modified the brake lines to the new location. I cut and flared the lines and installed new brake hoses.

Also got the Core4x4 adjustable track bar installed and adjusted. And I lengthened the sway bar links.

After the new parking brake cables are installed, it’s time to get the driveshaft.

Any recommendations for a driveshaft manufacturer?

 

[SlugSlinger]

Just an update on the rear driveshaft. I talked to Harmon's 4x4 and asked who they used. They mentioned Drive Shaft's Inc and Powertrain.

I had already talked to Driveshaft's Inc. and the sales guy told me to bring in the Jeep. lol I told him I didn't have driveshafts and no trailer at the moment. He did help with some high level ideas, but sounded busy.

I called Powertrain this morning and explained the situation and asked about options. I want to run a 1350 CV and the transfer-case and a 1410 ujoint on axle side. He said no problem and to bring in the transfer-case flange so they could match it up with a 1350 compatible flange and they have the 1410 slip yoke and suggested to run that instead of a 1350 slip yoke and the conversion 1410 to 1350 ujoint that I was concerned I would need to run.

The Powertrain guys are very helpful, spent the time to talk about the options and to research an acceptable solution. I will be surprised if they can build this shaft for the estimate given on the phone, especially compared to the pricing Drive Shaft's Inc gave me and the other internet driveshaft shop's pricing I've been seeing.

They are building the shaft now. I will update the thread after I pick up the driveshaft tomorrow.

 

[PBramble]

Why would you want two different sized u-joints? That's just more stuff to have to add in the fix-it kit.

 

[SlugSlinger]

Why would you want two different sized u-joints? That's just more stuff to have to add in the fix-it kit.

Yeah, you're right. I reused the factory 1410 pinion yoke and didn't want to downsize to the 1350. The 1410 CV is way overkill, even more so than the 1350 CV.

I'll just have to carry a 1350 and 1410 joint, if I carry any at all.

If something is going to break, it will be the 1350 CV. If that breaks, there is really not a trail repair, unless I carry a second driveshaft.

The front shaft will have 1350 CV and a 1350 ujoint at the pinion.

 

[SlugSlinger]

I am planning to run factory Ford F-250 wheels. The wheels are hub centric, which means the hub centers the wheel as compared to lug centric that means the lug nut centers the wheel.

I am running 2” billet aluminum spacers to do 2 things. Widen the rear axle to the same width as the front and to change the bolt pattern from the Chevy 8x6.5 to the Ford 8x170 pattern.


The issue is GM uses a lug centric wheels, while Ford uses the hub centric wheels. So if I bolt up the ford wheels to the GM type hub, the wheel will likely be slightly off center. To fix this I am making these centering rings to center the wheel off the hub.

 

[DanB]

I guess I missed a few days of updates. Nice progress.

I'd say I have a car hauler you could use to get the Jeep to the driveshaft shop. But that trailer I bought from you years ago got stolen from the company's yard about 3-4 years back. I'm still irritated about that.

Looking forward to seeing that on the ground.

 

[SlugSlinger]

I can't stand thieves! That was a really nice trailer. I wish I had something similar today.

Got the driveshaft in and the pinion angle set to 1 degree below the driveshaft angle. The torque when driving should move the pinion up from 1 to 2 degrees from everything I read. We'll see if there is any vibration. I can't really drive it due to the ABS and traction control due to the different tone ring counts and axle ratios. The ABS or traction control goes crazy when I get over a couple miles per hour. That is not cool. I'm not sure how that is going to work in the snow, mud and ice. I would like to totally disable it if possible. I need to do some research on this issue.

Power Train used a 32 spline CV flange made for a NP205 or NP203. However, I needed to replace the output shaft seal with a different seal ID. It was a seal from a NP208 transfercase.

As I suspected, they missed the price of the setup by about $175. It wasn't a surprise doing the research before ordering.

Here's the parts list and prices if anyone is interested.

 

[DanB]

You're getting into a whole world I have never researched on the ABS and Traction Control issues. Axle swaps are common place in the Jeep world. I'm sure someone has figured this one out before.

 

[SlugSlinger]

I haven't tried this yet, but this is what the internet says about disabling the traction control stuff.

The first way is to simply push the ESC button on the center console once,
the second way is to push it for seven seconds or simply engage 4lo
and the third... well, let's just say that the third is for serious professionals who know what they're doing and want the electronic stability control system permanently off.
This is apparently called “The steering dance”:
1. Verify that the automatic transmission selector is in the “Park” position, and that a manual transmission is in neutral gear.
2. Shift the transfer case into the 4H range position and ensure parking brake is firmly set.
3. Turn the steering wheel until it is centered and the wheels are pointed straight ahead.
4. Turn ignition on (and optionally start engine to make turning the wheel easier – will work with or without engine running) and wait approximately five (5) seconds for the system bulb check to complete.
5. Turn the steering wheel one-half turn to the right (clockwise).
6. Press and hold the “ESP OFF” button for 7 seconds exactly then release and wait for chime.
7. Turn the steering wheel back to center, then continue turning the steering wheel one-half turn to the left (counter clockwise).
8. Press and hold the “ESP OFF” button for 7 seconds exactly, release and wait for chime.
9. Turn the steering wheel back to center.
10. Press and hold the “ESP OFF” button for 7 seconds, release and wait for chime.
11. Cycle the ignition switch to the “OFF” position.