It blows my mind at what paints cost now. Imron is what I liked to spray back in the day and it was kinda pricey, but now it's all so high it's hard to believe. It's enough to make you look at rustoleum!
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It blows my mind at what paints cost now. Imron is what I liked to spray back in the day and it was kinda pricey, but now it's all so high it's hard to believe. It's enough to make you look at rustoleum!
Looking for a painter myself.
Matte black will get you back when chrome can't take you home.
Now you know why there are so many rattle can painted cars.
It can actually do a decent job, IF you prep and know how to apply spray.
Some good advice in this thread.
Stay away from this guy-
Stay away from this guy-
Talk to @swampratt
He'll help you rattle can that car lol
He'll help you rattle can that car lol
Believe it or not spray can paint jobs are easy to pull off.
When I want a nice one that looks factory i go to Palace auto supply in Norman.
I think they are out of business now.
But they mixed real auto paint into cans.
I am sure other places can do the same.
Garaged and cool temps and great prep and wipe down with tack cloth and ground the chassis and you can have a really nice paint job.
Now Crown paint in OKC has supplied me with many gallons of industrial enamel and it was cheap years ago 15 a gallon.
I painted many cars trucks and trailers and yard furniture with it.
For cheap rattle can paint jobs you need to rough the surface with 220 grit hand sandpaper.
Then blow it off and wipe down with mineral spirits.
Tack cloth it and then take a paper towel and wet it with mineral spirits.
Squeeze it out.
Wipe down a fender only with it .
Paint the fender while it is slightly damp with the mineral spirits.
Usually 3 cans of paint shake them before you start the wipe down.
4-5 coats of paint and then let it dry all the way for a day and then do another fender or hood.
Cover the entire car that is not to be painted to keep overspray off the panels.
The wet mineral spirits on the panel will act like thinner and keep the rattle can paint from drying so fast and no streaks will be seen.
When it is all dry for a day or 3 you can wet hand sand with 2000 grit.
Then take a terry cloth towel and some Meguiars machine glaze .
Add to the towel and hand rub the paint and it will shine like a new penny.
I do the same after shooting a car with industrial enamel.
You can go 2500-3000 if you wish but I found 2000 works fine enough.
That machine glaze will remove swirl marks from paint, even black.
If they are really bad use the fine cut cleaner then the machine glaze.
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Doesn’t common paper towels leave lint? I know that they do when my wife insists on using them on mirrors…
Anyone know of a sandblasting place to go? I have a blackstone type griddle that needs the rust removed.
Mid-70s, I worked for Benjamin Moore paint. Friday afternoon, a high school guy walks in, says he needs some purple paint, shiny, for metal. We had an industrial enamel in OSHA safety colors. One of which was radiation purple.
He buys a gallon, along with a $0.49, 4", nylon brush.
Sunday afternoon, I see a purple glow down the road, coming up behind me. A few seconds, we catch a light and Leroy pulls along side, in a '64 Falcon, painted solid, radiation purple; body, trim, chrome, bumpers, mirrors, door handles, wheels, wipers. He glances over, sees me and waves, "looking sharp, thanks man."
The brush strokes really set it off and added to the job.
He buys a gallon, along with a $0.49, 4", nylon brush.
Sunday afternoon, I see a purple glow down the road, coming up behind me. A few seconds, we catch a light and Leroy pulls along side, in a '64 Falcon, painted solid, radiation purple; body, trim, chrome, bumpers, mirrors, door handles, wheels, wipers. He glances over, sees me and waves, "looking sharp, thanks man."
The brush strokes really set it off and added to the job.
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