Real Black Powder in Oklahoma?

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rmark

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'Sub's don't work for Flintlocks, that flashpan needs 4f. '

flashpan can be 2 or 3f, will work fine. Back in the musket era it was musket grade (about 1f) in a paper cartridge used in both pan and barrel.
 

ruger461

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Update: H&H in OKC has (had) Graff and Sons in stock when I went down the other day. 2f was running 16/Lb. I tried your method Pulp but cant seem to get a consistent weight. Ill use the dowel rod to get the column height in the casing right, then weigh and sometimes just putting that same load back in changes the height again. I made a drop tube (make shift out of lee powder funnel and an old 28" alum. arrow shaft). Any ideas on how to make a more consistent weight and powder column?
 

Pulp

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Once you find your volume, then weigh and use that volume. Do use your drop tube, that will help produce more even levels in the cartridge. For my .45-70 with Goex FFg, I do use 65 grains off the scale. But then I really have to put the scrunch on it to get my long bullets to fully seat. I'm using the Lee .459-500-3R bullet and I have to seat it all the way to the crimp ring or they won't chamber in my H&R Buff Classic. It has a very short throat. So I really have to compress the powder. I've kinda southern engineered a compression tool. After pouring the powder and putting in an overpowder card, I lower the ram, insert a short piece of dowel rod, and then raise the ram up against the belling die to really drive the powder down. I have the dowel rod marked with the depth I need to seat the bullet to.

You said you'd get the volume right, then weigh it, then try to throw that weight again and it would be a different volume. That's OK. It's just the powder not settlilng on one throw or settling too much on the next throw. Using a drop tube should help with that. As long as your throwing the same weight each time it won't matter if one load settles a little more or less than the next.

Do not use my method of compression with any of the subs, only with real BP. The subs do not require or recommend compression. Just no air gap 'twixt powder and bullet.

Also I hope you're using bullets with LOTS of BP compatible lube. Bullets lubed for smokeless powder will work with the subs, but will not work with BP or Pyrodex. BTW, Pyrodex is sulfur, KNO3, and charcoal based blackpowder. It has an extra chemical added so it can be classified as a flammable solid, as opposed to an explosive. That's why you can buy Pyrodex off the shelf, and you can't do the same with BP. That extra ingredient also makes Pryodex fouling a bit more corrosive.

Either way, clean your brass and your rifle ASAP after shooting. Then check it carefully a couple of days later, and clean it again if needed. I clean with a bit of Murphy's Oil Soap in water, using really wet patches. When the patches come out clean, then I use dry patches to dry it, then patches soaked with Ballistol. I've (knock on wood) never had any problems with rust or corrosion. Believe it or not, BP is actually easier to clean than smokeless. It's just a bit messier, and some folks complain about the smell.
 

ruger461

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Hay pulp, that's the same bullet I'm loading. I'm getting fairly consistent shots, with shooting stick I'm getting 1.5" groups at 100 yards. I think as I get more consistent with my reloading I can bring those groups closer. I've been basically using makeshift tools and such but I am going to be making them better now that I kind of have a proof of concept. I'll put together a better drop tube that is more stable and make a better dowel rod that you suggested. I'm going to try and post a pick of my first loads you helped me make as we'll.
 

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