I've been looking at getting into reloading for the last year or so, but think I'm going to jump in pretty quick. In my research hive come across a number of people who reload surplus steel! Which I didn't realize was possible. It gave me hope bc I just automatically counted my surplus steel cased ammo as one and done. Anybody on here have any experience with this? If so any good or bad things to look out for?
I would not start with reloading steel. You have enough to learn using jacketed bullets and brass cases.
For several reasons, I choose not to reload steel, as the only possible motivation would be to save money, and it might cost more in die wear. Your choice after learning the basics of loading. I have no problem getting all the brass I need.
For several reasons, I choose not to reload steel, as the only possible motivation would be to save money, and it might cost more in die wear. Your choice after learning the basics of loading. I have no problem getting all the brass I need.
I agree there is a lot to learn without throwing that in there. It isn't my primary reason for getting into reloading. I'm mostly wanting to reload 7mm mag and 9mm all brass. I just have a decent amount of 7.62x39 I wouldn't mind knowing how and having the ability to reload if I needed to! Wouldn't carbide dies wear well even with use on steel cases?
When you are reading the technical part of your loading manual(s), which it is vital you do BEFORE you start loading, look at the various types of dies and the difference between reloading straight-walled pistol cases and bottlenecked rifle cases. Carbide rifle dies are very expensive, somewhat fragile, and not available in all calibers. Even if you can get one in 7.62 X 39, break one carbide ring and there goes all the savings from reusing steel cases. Steel work hardens quickly, and puts more stress on the dies.
Like I said, your choice. But similar to many other things, reloading steel sounds really good on the surface: the devil is in the details.
I am the odd guy out.
I reload steel 45acp cases and aluminum..
I use lee carbide dies and the steel cases slick through the dies easier than the brass ones.
I keep everything spotless clean ..This means no dust on the cases from tumbling.
I have both steel and aluminum that have been fired 3 times and still no issues.
I do not overwork my cases,,this means minimal flare and i do not crimp..I use lead bullets also.
Just because i am cheap and like to cast and make my own stuff.
I reload steel 45acp cases and aluminum..
I use lee carbide dies and the steel cases slick through the dies easier than the brass ones.
I keep everything spotless clean ..This means no dust on the cases from tumbling.
I have both steel and aluminum that have been fired 3 times and still no issues.
I do not overwork my cases,,this means minimal flare and i do not crimp..I use lead bullets also.
Just because i am cheap and like to cast and make my own stuff.
The significant issue for you with loading the steel cased 7.62X39 rifle ammo is whether it is boxer or berdan primed. All of the steel cased ammo I have seen in that caliber is berdan primed. You can certainly reload it and can get the primers several places on line, but for me its not worth it. I have reloaded many steel cased straight walled pistol cases with no problem. A good friend reworks his steel cased ammo by drilling into the berdan primer, making a flash hole where the anvil resides in the case and inserting a boxer primer in the center of the old primer. Works for him and he uses that for some of the really hard to get stuff like 8mm lebel etc. Large rifle primer pockets are deeper than large pistol pockets. Berdan primers are normally shorter than their equivalent boxer primer. That said, it is difficult to get a large rifle boxer primer into the opening cut into a berdan primer and have it seated to the correct depth. (Think high primers being dangerous when you slam a bolt closed.) The web area is thinner on the berdan primed cases I have checked as well making it harder to drill the pocket deeply enough for the boxer large rifle primer. David has experimented with both large and small rifle primers in those modifications. His work in that area is fascinating to me, and he is continually coming up with new ways to recycle difficult to find brass. If you approach this reloading hobby with the correct attitude and with safety in mind, it can be very rewarding. Don't be afraid to look into different ways of doing things, I don't know how many things I wouldn't be doing today if I had only known at the time that it couldn't be done...
I am actually planning on getting the lee carbide dies and would cast my own bullets as well.
Do you have burdan primers? If so how did you remove them?
I do not do berdaned stuff.
Blitzfike has many great points..
And i do not reload steel rifle cases.. i do not even own a 7.62x39 any more.
due to the fact that mine shot like crap and i did not want to wast time and money on a 3 MOA rifle.
If i can't get at least 1.75" groups at 100 yards i will sell the rifle.
I hope yours shoots better than the one i had..
Or maybe it is just me and my expectations of a good rifle.
You can usually find it for 20 bucks a 100.
Heck get the dies and some imperial sizing die wax or hornady one shot sizing wax.
Lube inside and out...then size..
The primers are another issue that has been addressed.
Blitzfike has many great points..
And i do not reload steel rifle cases.. i do not even own a 7.62x39 any more.
due to the fact that mine shot like crap and i did not want to wast time and money on a 3 MOA rifle.
If i can't get at least 1.75" groups at 100 yards i will sell the rifle.
I hope yours shoots better than the one i had..
Or maybe it is just me and my expectations of a good rifle.
You can usually find it for 20 bucks a 100.
Heck get the dies and some imperial sizing die wax or hornady one shot sizing wax.
Lube inside and out...then size..
The primers are another issue that has been addressed.
From what I'm told, Berdan de-priming is done with the use of hydraulics. I vaguely recall being told that some one was using a fitted dowel and some oil; you pour the oil into the case, then drive the dowel into the oil, which forces the spent primer out of the primer pocket.
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