You'll get no shortage of help here. There are lots of other threads, including my own from years ago, of users seeking help and advice in reloading. My first piece of advice would be to buy a good solid press. This doesn't have to mean expensive, but means well made. Even if you go full progressive, you'll find yourself needing a good single stage from time to time, at least I do. Buy a quality press, dies, and tools, otherwise as you grow you will find that as you get deeper into the hobby, you'll be investing in the same items again but in a better quality. If you will be reloading rifle cartridges, do yourself a favor and spend a little money on brass prep equipment, like a good case prep station. It'll save you tons of time, frustration, and hand cramps.
Triple check everything, verify your load data before starting and spot check during loading. I don't fire a single round that doesn't pass through a case gauge, and I also plunk test several handgun loads, especially when loading a new projectile.
Speaking of case gauges, I learned the expensive way the difference between minimum chamber and max cartridge sized gauges. I've had pistol reloads that easily pass a min. chamber gauge, but fail the plunk test in the barrel. The case head could have the slightest bulge that is barely visible and only fixable through a bulge buster or roll sizer, and the minimum chamber gauge would pass it. It would still fail to fully drop in a plunk test though. I then switched all of my gauges to max cartridge which are a little smaller than minimum chamber, and have never looked back (Wilson gauges are among the best IMO).
Triple check everything, verify your load data before starting and spot check during loading. I don't fire a single round that doesn't pass through a case gauge, and I also plunk test several handgun loads, especially when loading a new projectile.
Speaking of case gauges, I learned the expensive way the difference between minimum chamber and max cartridge sized gauges. I've had pistol reloads that easily pass a min. chamber gauge, but fail the plunk test in the barrel. The case head could have the slightest bulge that is barely visible and only fixable through a bulge buster or roll sizer, and the minimum chamber gauge would pass it. It would still fail to fully drop in a plunk test though. I then switched all of my gauges to max cartridge which are a little smaller than minimum chamber, and have never looked back (Wilson gauges are among the best IMO).
Last edited: