Reloading woes...

[Shooter00]

My first question is, Why did you put it back in the factory stock? And, yes, it can make that much difference. Then, like somebody said, back to basics. Is everything tight? Personally, I would put it back in the McMillan stock, be sure everything is tightened properly (bedding screws and scope rings and bases) and shoot it again. Not another two dozen rounds. Pick the load that shot best and put three to five more down the tube. That should tell you if you've gained anything. If not, I would probably be trying a different powder.

That's my plan. I put the wood stock on because it's pretty, wanted less of a tactical look. At this point I don't care how pretty it is, I just need it to shoot straight. I know it likes Varget, but case density is too low, and I think that was part of the problem in the hills (8500 ft). H1000 shoots well, but it's too much the other way, a compressed load with a regular BT, and with the TSX all copper bullets, too much powder. IMR 4831 is what Barnes said is most accurate in testing, case density is fine, running 73 grs max, so close to 80%, and I'm still cranking 3100 fps or so at muzzle. I need a big punch out over 500 yards for the elk with this 168gr bullet, so I want to stay on the hot side.

I've been reloading for more than ten years and this is the first time I've heard of annealing. So no, I pitch my cases when they crack. I don't sort by weight, never had to. I've always had loads shooting ragged holes at 100, under 2" at 200. If I need to do that stuff to get good results, I better hang it up. And I'm loading for hunting, I don't compete anymore - used to shoot silhouettes in Colorado - iron sights and off hand, if it fell over, I dun good. All I need to do is hit a pie plate sized target out to at least 500 yards. If I miss, I just send another one with a better hold.

Thanks for the helps, fellas.

 

[338Shooter]

You need to change bullets. IMO, 168gr bullets are crap in .30 cal. With a 300WM I'd be shooting 175gr minimum. You will get better ballistics at range. I run 4831sc in my 338 and have very good luck with it.

Annealing your cases will give you more consistent neck tension, but if you're just chasing MOA (not a bad goal especially for hunting) it probably isn't necessary.

Which redding dies are you using and how did you select the bushing? Did you remove the expander ball (not sure why the still include it with the dies)?

 

[JCW355]

Some bullets will be better and so will some powders. Is there places that touch the barrel that shouldn't? Try sliding a dollar bill between stock and barrel to confirm free float. I've been lucky enough that the powders I chose worked well with the guns I have but I had to try several different bullets to find the most accurate.

 

[Huckelberry75]

For the 300 WM, I have had excellent results with the 180gn Nosler Accubonds on elk. Using 71gn of IMR-4350 in RP nickel brass and CCI Mag primers, it usually runs about 3000 at the muzzle. Some of the guys in our elk hunitng group have been using Reloader 17 at the same weight/bullet mix and it seems to be a little less temp sensitive at 8500' in New Mexico than the 4350. I know it isnt the bullet or powder(s) that you have chosen, just mentioning what worked for me.

As for your gun, you might tinker with the tension on the action screws. Some guns like to have them tightened down to XX pounds.

Also might want to double check the wood stock to verify if it's floated.

Just some things to try.

Best of luck.

 

[358norma]

Sounds like a stock issue to me. From what you have said you changed the stock and everthing else is the same. Groups want bad after a stock change, change the stock back...Also watch how much pressure you use on your action screws when putting them back in. I have a rifle that picky about how much tension is put on the screws. Get a small torque wrench to check pressure on screws. Check all the scope mounting hardware, a loose screw will cause lots of problems. If all that fails, change your scope, they go bad from time to time, I've had good scpoes go bad too, not the just the cheapies. Last thing to look at is how you are cleaning the rifle, most rifle I have seen that are "shot out" or "won't shoot" have been a dirty barrel problem of some sort. If all that doesn't work, shoot me a PM and I'll see if I can help you.

 

[458 SOCOM]

I would change to the Hogdon 4831SC, it is what I run in my Ruger rifle.

Temp changes can affect most powders, however 4831SC will eliminate that problem.

 

[zcruse]

Sounds to me like you may have over torqued your stock or your gun just doesn't like that powder or bullet. First I would check the stock. I had this issue with a 270 that shot great until the wood stock was put back on after doing some maintenance. The next trip it shot like crap. When we got home we saw a hairline crack in the stock. Loosened the stock screws a half turn and it went back to shooting 3/4" groups. Also as others have mentioned check that it is free floated all the way down the barrel. If all that is in order then pick either a powder or a bullet that you want to use and vary the other. As always try to only change one thing at a time. If it's any consolation every 30 cal I've owned has been much more load finicky than my 27 and smaller cals. keep trying and you'll find a combination!