Safe Technician Recommendations in the OKC Area

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outlawfirearms

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Is it one of these? If so, do you have the manual for it?
The problem keypad is a Kaba Mas brand. The only difference in the keypads pictured in your post is on my lock, instead of an astrict symbol, it says CLEAR and instead of the pound symbol it says ENTER. I didn't receive a specific manual for the keypad when I bought the safe in 2003.
 

outlawfirearms

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Try this before spending big bucks on a smith, maybe it will work if it is the keypad that failed.

I watched that video and many others to try and find a way to get into my safe. I have another Cannon safe with the same keypad and lock as the one that has died. I tried several new Duracell and Energizer Max 9V alkaline batteries and I tried the identical Kaba Mas keypad from my other Cannon safe and it would not unlock the safe. I also called Cannon Customer Service and after trying a few of their scripted troubleshooting steps, they believed the lock inside the door was dead and would have to be replaced. They are sending me a new NL electronic keypad and lock; however, I don't plan on using an electronic lock again unless I have too. Calling a Safe Technician has been my last resort. What a frustrating ordeal!
 

outlawfirearms

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That’s why I bought an ArmorVault that is double keyed.

I have 3 sets of keys, all located in different places, and 1 of them is 90 miles away and one is in a safe deposit box.
I think you were very smart! Personally, I would not buy another safe with an electronic keypad and lock. I know mechanical dial locks can go bad, but I believe in the long run, they would be more dependable.
 

Bocephus123

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If you are going to cut the safe open, use a cut off wheel and go through the side. We had a crackhead open a safe at a pharmacy that way, peeled it like a sardine can. The steel is real thin there, probably 16GA or less. Plasma cutter will get too hot.
why i bought a explosion pruf industrial cabinet twice as thick as a gun safe . love it its about 4 1/2 ft wide 6' tall 1 1/2 deep made my own racks.!!
 

isuolympic

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I would recommend replacing it with a S&G dial combination lock. I have a Fort Knox I bought around 1988 and have never had a problem with the lock. Smooth as silk.
On the other hand, I have two smaller Cannon safes that I bought around 1998. Lost the combination to one, called Cannon and they were zero help. Said they only keep combination numbers for a short time.
 

KOPBET

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I would recommend replacing it with a S&G dial combination lock. I have a Fort Knox I bought around 1988 and have never had a problem with the lock. Smooth as silk.
On the other hand, I have two smaller Cannon safes that I bought around 1998. Lost the combination to one, called Cannon and they were zero help. Said they only keep combination numbers for a short time.

Cheaper combo locks can be manually manipulated fairly easily if you have the time (as in own it). Lots of info on how to do it out there if you choose to learn.
 

Letfreedomring

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Just out of curiosity, did your digital lock have a "default" combo from which you changed to your current combo?
It sounds like the keypad is not the problem but the electric motor that retracts the door pins that is the problem. At least that is how I'm reading the ops posts. My keypad has the skeleton key backup which was mandatory in my safe shopping.
 

KOPBET

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It sounds like the keypad is not the problem but the electric motor that retracts the door pins that is the problem. At least that is how I'm reading the ops posts. My keypad has the skeleton key backup which was mandatory in my safe shopping.

Perhaps, But all we KNOW is that two keypads don't work with a given combo.

BTW - Electric motors don't retrack the door pins. It just retracts the blocking bolt in the lock body.

IMG_0934[5621].jpg
 

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