I don't know how long. It is the AAC 45 Tirant . As far as the supersonic crack goes, there was none when shooting supersonic 9mm suppressed at 8 yards into the berm. At distances over 10 yards you could hear it.
Is it worth it? I don't know. I've always wondered how crappy it would be to have to give a report to a LEO about what happened with my ears hurting, ringing, not being able to hear well.. But, are the risks worth it? Reliability? I don't know if there is any merit to the legality risk, but with all the bleeding heart liberals out there, it wouldn't surprise me. Like someone said before though, put it away before they get there. You don't think it's important information that you had a suppressor on.. Why would you? There's a BG in your house. I doubt they would try to find out if you were running a suppressor - even if they were suspicious of it.. It's a toss up for me.
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Quick counterpoint though ... if you "put it away" and they somehow find out ... you're just setting yourself up for more grief because "you must've known you did something wrong because you tried to hide it".
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I'm not going to get neck deep into it on an open forum, not only because of TTP concerns, but because describing techniques without ftf instruction is problematic at best.
What I will say is that if you are working in the dark and have a valid target that you have verified as such with a light, you will be shooting at them with the light on. To do otherwise is wrong because you lose the ability to see your target and what is beyond/ between you and them.
That light is going to drown out any effect from a muzzle flash. Bottom line is, light stays on from PID till you stop shooting. Either the target goes down or out of view.
Speaking of lights, you cannot get too many lumens in a currently available hand held or weapon light. I consider 500 a minimum, but you can get away with less depending on spill and space. Claims of "too bright" or "reflections blinding me" are a result of improper use. Mainly from people concentrating their focus on the hot spot instead of where the spill and reflections illuminate the surroundings. The only time the hot spot should be where you are focusing is when it coincides with your target. The rest of the time the light is used obliquely; for lack of a better term, taking advantage of its spill and reflected light for observation.
What I will say is that if you are working in the dark and have a valid target that you have verified as such with a light, you will be shooting at them with the light on. To do otherwise is wrong because you lose the ability to see your target and what is beyond/ between you and them.
That light is going to drown out any effect from a muzzle flash. Bottom line is, light stays on from PID till you stop shooting. Either the target goes down or out of view.
Speaking of lights, you cannot get too many lumens in a currently available hand held or weapon light. I consider 500 a minimum, but you can get away with less depending on spill and space. Claims of "too bright" or "reflections blinding me" are a result of improper use. Mainly from people concentrating their focus on the hot spot instead of where the spill and reflections illuminate the surroundings. The only time the hot spot should be where you are focusing is when it coincides with your target. The rest of the time the light is used obliquely; for lack of a better term, taking advantage of its spill and reflected light for observation.
There ya go. Can't argue with that.
We have chosen to use motion activated lights through out the house as our bedroom is in the very back. No lights in there. As anybody works their way through the house they will be totally illuminated. Hopefully that will get them running out of the house. Those lights are positioned to cast shadows of anybody hiding behind the furniture. If they unplug them, they have just announced their position.
They are just the motion lights sold at any box store. Nothing special.
We have chosen to use motion activated lights through out the house as our bedroom is in the very back. No lights in there. As anybody works their way through the house they will be totally illuminated. Hopefully that will get them running out of the house. Those lights are positioned to cast shadows of anybody hiding behind the furniture. If they unplug them, they have just announced their position.
They are just the motion lights sold at any box store. Nothing special.
I just reread this with a lot more attention, and it brings back memory's of training that told us to never look at a target directly when flares were deployed, but to look obliquely because of the way the rods and cones in the eyes are made. I've used that information to this day and its true.
Try it, look at something in the distance that is illuminated with center focus. Then look slightly to the side of it, and it becomes brighter.
Worked great with 20 some year old eyes, but it still works somewhat with older eyes.
Thanks guys, I appreciate your willingness to help clarify concepts. Just cause I have 2 cents, I reciprocate the gesture. If you knew this, don't be offended. Dennis you pointed it out!
Since I was a kid I've known that if you want to see on something clearly in dim light, don't look directly at it, look beside it.
Ever wonder why that is?
Im not a MD or even in the health profession but I will try to apply my Intro Bio knowledge to explain this.
We have two main photoreceptors in our eye, rods and cones. Cones are responsible for our color vision, and rods for our black and white vision (night vision). when we focus on something in well lit conditions the image we are focusing on is projected on an area in the back of our eyes that has a very high concentration of cones, called the fovea. This area is basically responsible for our sharp day vision. If you try to focus on something in dim conditions (i.e., black, white, and many shades of grey) that image is again focused onto the fovea. BUT.... what is not there in great amounts? Rods!!! Which are responsible for our night vision. So, the areas surrounding the fovea have a higher concentration of rods. Therefore we see better, under dim light, if we do not focus on the object we wish to see.
How'd i do? Any experts here?
A couple of things here, most have already been hit by others.
The only reason I would ever use a suppressor is to attempt to minimize the damage to my hearing or those who I care about. For HD work, in my estimation, a rifle should really have a can. That becomes an absolute requirement for an SBR.. Nothing says 'manly' like having blown your own ear drums. For pistols, in my opinion, the juice is not anywhere near worth the squeeze.
Yes, a suppressor will most likely be seized with a gun as evidence even though there is absolutely no need for them to do so. It will likely be kept until a case and any criminal/civil trials that were spawned by it have concluded. If you're lucky it'll probably be tossed into an evidence locker as-is and not cleaned or cared for. If you aren't people will be finger-banging it or trying to 'disappear' it into their private collection. I don't even want to think about the **** that would roll downhill on to a person that attempted to conceal the fact that they had used one. Prosecutors are political animals who live and breathe for the opportunities to string people up; it's how they validate themselves to their bosses and to the system that employs them. Don't give them any additional ways to hook you up. They are just as much a threat to your freedom as a citizen as the dirtbags that might try to use violence against you.
As far as lowlight and muzzle flash is concerned it isn't even on the list of things that I think about with a pistol. As has been said actually having a light on (like you should!) makes it hard to even notice. Even without this, quality defensive ammunition from modern domestic manufacturers typically has flash suppressants blended into the powders used and they are very effective compared to regular ammunition. While a flash can still be seen from the muzzle you'll have more important things to be concerned with as will the target. Much-ado about nothing so far as I'm concerned. Give it a shot some time at an indoor range with the lights out or in the country in a safe place and find out for certain with your gun/caliber/ammunition choices so that you'll know.
Getting back to pistols and cans
Pistols are loud but unless you're running some sort of überblaster9000 BS or +P+ mega-deathray loads it probably won't be permanently debilitating. Probably. That said I care a lot more for knowing with absolute 100% certainty that I've not done anything that could negatively impact the reliability of a defensive pistol. UMB alluded to a suppressor giving an assailant leverage over the shooter and this is a big concern. Potentially you have only one wrist with which to support and attempt to retain your blaster. It's highly likely that you'll need your other hand to defend yourself, protect your nugget, operate a phone or flashlight. The wrist is not a terribly strong joint. It can be aided in the endeavor of retaining said blaster by sucking it up tight next to the torso in a position of retention. With a can on the pistol it would still be protruding out from the body of the shooter. This means that in a scuffle it'd be all to easy to have it grabbed or knocked out of alignment with an assailant in addition to the likelihood that any force against the suppressor would keep the gun from cycling assuming it didn't take the firearm out of battery in the first place and render it unable to fire. Fighting over pistols is an exceptionally effective way of inducing malfunctions. Magazines get ejected either by accident or by choice, clothing gets caught in slides, body parts prevent slides from cycling and that bastard Murphy is a ring-side spectator waiting for things to go wrong. You can get some first-hand experience with this by taking a quality Force-on-Force class with a reputable instructor. Craig Douglas comes immediately to mind as he does yearly classes in this area. You can see some of these issues in this highlight reel from a few years ago: http://youtu.be/1eM9NygM2oM . Make note of how often dudes are having to clear malfunctions, especially one-handed, and then think of trying to do that with a suppressor hanging off the blaster.
Furthermore, I have serious qualms about how strong the threaded union between the suppressor and the barrel is. I could totally see this getting bent or broken rolling around on the ground with some skel while fighting over the gun or guns. If that were to happen I think a baffle strike would be the least of one's concerns. Shooting the suppressor OFF the gun or having a round exit through the side in an errant direction seem quite likely to me.
I know several folks who choose to run suppressors on handguns for HD. They are well-trained and well-prepared folks and I do not disparage their choices. For me though I don't find the pros to outweigh the cons.
Regards,
Ek
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^^^^^Great post
Thank you Ek
Thank you Ek
