What do you consider a good group

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rockchalk06

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What's your groups look like with the 143 grain? I've played with the 147 grain ELD Match and pulled off some sub 1/2 MOA in the few I've tested.
 
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Oklahomabassin

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I wouldn't get to flustered right now. Supplies are tough to acquire, and expensive to boot. The accuracy you have is better than a many of the hunters. Several buy a box of ammo and shoot off the hood or bed rail and call it good.
 

Oklahomabassin

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I've killed deer with my target load of 140 Grain Berger VLD'S over H4350. Not what people recommend for hunting though. I smoked her at 330. She jumped, kicked like a mule and made it 40 yards before she collapsed DRT. My hunting buddy looked at me and said "Well, that worked better than I thought it would"
Bullets that dump a 100% of their energy inside the organ cavity are devastating. Advantages: most are really accurate, game often drop very quickly. Disadvantages: if they drop out of sight, often there is very little blood trail, meat damage from bullet/bone fragments and blood shot.
 
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kwaynem

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I thought you had a good hunting load for those?

Now lets get into brass prep since you are chasing that tighter group.
Without good brass prep you are limiting the rifle. Yea 1" to 1.25" will work fine and you need to check that at 200.
My tight at 200 and 300 are 1.25 @ 300 and under 1" at 200 but only shoot .75" at 100.

Now without annealing the necks each time my groups are larger.
Brushing necks is a must do for me before and after resizing.
Same head stamp is a must.
NO Crimp!
Even bullet seating pressures are a must have.

I measure neck ID and Neck OD they can NOT vary more than 1/4 of a thousandths of an inch.
If you have an OD on one case that is .001" larger the group will show it.
.001" different on ID is unacceptable.

VLD chamfer case mouths always even if you did not trim the case.
Neck brush the cases after all prepping is finished and clean inside neck with a QTip.

You want tight groups you must work for it.
Look into the cases and notice the primer hole inside the case..some have a Burr I deburr that hole.

Oily fingers need to stay away from bullets that you are going to seat into a case.
Wash your fingers.
Some bullets have a wax on them..Those I clean off with a paper towel.

Sizing die wax on outside of case when you pick it up and then you pick up a bullet is a NO GO.
Sizing die wax or spray lube in the case to me is another NO GO.

Then there is the shooting part.
You must have the front bag in the same spot as we know and same hold on the gun.
same amount of pressure applied to the butt/shoulder area.
Lay your thumb on the barrel when you shoot NO GO.

If you can't hold on exactly the same spot on the target at 100 then do not fire the round off.
Work on your steady.

My 30-30 shoots and kills everything inside of 250 yards and it is slow 2200fps and groups 1.5 some days and .75 on other days.
Neck turning really tightened the groups in it.

Lapua cases shot horribly in my .223 and .243 until I neck turned them.
I like neck turning for accuracy and to eliminate pesky unexplained fliers
I do have a good load for the interlock I got from you then Robert can’t remember his screen name sold me the nosler lrab and Scott sent me a few portions he had good folks here and Thor77 hooked me up with hornady brass
 

kwaynem

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I do need to do all the case prep work swampratt is talking about I just hate to burn everything up I have playing probably going to get harder to find things with these idiots doing mass shootings and the liberals and rinos smiling their ass off thinking everything is going in their favor
 

Thorgrim

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I consider a 3/4" group at 100yds or better to be decent. I bought a used 6.5 saum, averaging about 1/4" moa so far. No bs. .200, .290 and .245 @ 100 YDS. using Berger 140 hntg vld.
 

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