Whirlpool Dryer Repair - HELP PLEASE!!!

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HMFIC

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Ok, I think I have it mostly nailed, but I want to make sure. I've never done this before and want to make sure I don't mess something up, leave something out or start a fire later.

The model is a Whirlpool LER4634EQ2 Heavy Duty Electric Dryer. Its about 12 years old and has survived 4 moves, 3 kids and my wife who doesn't care to ever clean the lint trap it seems.

The other day, she was drying some things and I noticed when I checked on them that they were VERY VERY hot. The lint trap was mostly clean (cleaner than usual) and so I started it again and let it go. The clothes dried fine.

The NEXT time I went to use the dryer, it wouldn't start. When you turn the cycle timer, the heating element lit up but when you pressed the start button, there was nothing. No click, no start, no anything.

So... after a bunch of shadetree appliance repair reading on the internet, I decided to do some testing to see if I could repair it. I don't want to buy a new dryer right now. It's so low on my list of priorities that I'd just as soon hang clothes on my spoiler to blow dry while driving down 169. Anyway, I followed the troubleshooting guides. The outlet is good and reads like it should, so I removed the back panel after deciding that the thermal componants sounded like the culprit.

I located the one time thermal fuse that is in the exhaust tube, removed it and tested it for continuity. None... nada, zip, zilch. Ok so that's bad right?

I decided to tempt fate and just tape the two leads to the fuse together and test the dryer and voila... it started fine and the timer functioned correctly so that pretty much rules out any switch or timer issues.

My question is this dryer has two thermostats on the heater tube, an upper and a lower. I haven't tested them yet, but I have read a little bit that says you should replace those as well.

I also noticed there is a "cycling thermostat" on the exhaust tube near the thermal fuse. Is this something I need to check and replace as well?

So... my questions:

1.) Does it sound like I'm taking the right course of action?
2.) Do I need to replace both of the thermostats in the heater tube?
3.) If no on item 2, do I simply check them for continuity to determine good?
4.) Do I need to replace the "cyclig thermostat" in the exhaust tube?
5.) If no, do I simply check it for continuity to determine good as well?
6.) Anything else?

Thanks in advance to all of you who know what they are doing... cause I don't!

:cry3:
 

ez bake

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Ok, I think I have it mostly nailed, but I want to make sure. I've never done this before and want to make sure I don't mess something up, leave something out or start a fire later.

The model is a Whirlpool LER4634EQ2 Heavy Duty Electric Dryer. Its about 12 years old and has survived 4 moves, 3 kids and my wife who doesn't care to ever clean the lint trap it seems.

The other day, she was drying some things and I noticed when I checked on them that they were VERY VERY hot. The lint trap was mostly clean (cleaner than usual) and so I started it again and let it go. The clothes dried fine.

The NEXT time I went to use the dryer, it wouldn't start. When you turn the cycle timer, the heating element lit up but when you pressed the start button, there was nothing. No click, no start, no anything.

So... after a bunch of shadetree appliance repair reading on the internet, I decided to do some testing to see if I could repair it. I don't want to buy a new dryer right now. It's so low on my list of priorities that I'd just as soon hang clothes on my spoiler to blow dry while driving down 169. Anyway, I followed the troubleshooting guides. The outlet is good and reads like it should, so I removed the back panel after deciding that the thermal componants sounded like the culprit.

I located the one time thermal fuse that is in the exhaust tube, removed it and tested it for continuity. None... nada, zip, zilch. Ok so that's bad right?

I decided to tempt fate and just tape the two leads to the fuse together and test the dryer and voila... it started fine and the timer functioned correctly so that pretty much rules out any switch or timer issues.

My question is this dryer has two thermostats on the heater tube, an upper and a lower. I haven't tested them yet, but I have read a little bit that says you should replace those as well.

I also noticed there is a "cycling thermostat" on the exhaust tube near the thermal fuse. Is this something I need to check and replace as well?

So... my questions:

1.) Does it sound like I'm taking the right course of action?
2.) Do I need to replace both of the thermostats in the heater tube?
3.) If no on item 2, do I simply check them for continuity to determine good?
4.) Do I need to replace the "cyclig thermostat" in the exhaust tube?
5.) If no, do I simply check it for continuity to determine good as well?
6.) Anything else?

Thanks in advance to all of you who know what they are doing... cause I don't!

:cry3:

I'm no expert, but I've done the shade-tree online appliance stuff (mostly use http://www.repairclinic.com/ and a few other sites) for two dryers and my central heat and air a few times (different problems - was able to fix all of them relatively easily).

Sounds like you're on the right track, but I wouldn't necessarily replace anything more than the two termostats in the heater tube (should be pretty cheap and easy enough - if one tests good, but goes bad in the next month or so, you'd have saved yourself the trouble of tearing the dryer down again later).

I'd almost say if it was easy enough/cheap enough to do the exhaust tube thermo as well, but I've never had a model that required me to mess with that - so I don't know if you need to or not.

Make sure to pull the lent trap off of the back of the dryer and vacuum it out really well to make sure that all of that crap is out and out of the inside of the dryer leading up to the lent tube and in the actual tube as far as you can get to. That crap causes heat build-up like you wouldn't believe.

There's a pretty good place up in Tulsa that has almost all the parts you need - I think its A1 Appliance, but I can't remember.

http://www.a1appliancetulsa.com/
 

HMFIC

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Cool thanks EZ! I will try them. I found a place online I can order them cheap but I need to dry some dadgum clothes soon lol.

I did go ahead and test both heater thermostats and they have continuity. The exhaust one has four leads so not sure what to do about it.
 

ez bake

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Cool thanks EZ! I will try them. I found a place online I can order them cheap but I need to dry some dadgum clothes soon lol.

I did go ahead and test both heater thermostats and they have continuity. The exhaust one has four leads so not sure what to do about it.

Yeah - I ordered parts the first time - clothes were stacking up but while I saved some money, the wife wasn't happy - didn't take long to wise up and find a local place :D
 

_CY_

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Associated parts is the best place for parts.... Greers for hard to find parts, but plan on paying much more.

both places will help diagnose problems.... call em up...
super nice appliances come up on craigslist all the time, for next to nothing

ASSOCIATED PARTS AND SUPPLY
2619 E. ADMIRAL PL
TULSA, OK 74110
(918) 836-6080
 

ez bake

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Associated parts is the best place for parts.... Greers for hard to find parts, but plan on paying much more.

both places will help diagnose problems.... call em up...
super nice appliances come up on craigslist all the time, for next to nothing

ASSOCIATED PARTS AND SUPPLY
2619 E. ADMIRAL PL
TULSA, OK 74110
(918) 836-6080

Now you got me questioning if I went to Associated Parts or A1... I can't remember.
 
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You need to take the old one with you so they know what value to get you. Greere and Associated will have the part you need and they are local. They give pretty big discounts to people who have accounts so if it is more then 10 bucks or so let me know and I can get my price for you
 

HMFIC

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Cool, thanks guys.

I did some more poking around and knowing that the dryer got real hot before this failure, I am starting to suspect something else may be wrong too.... the vent hose and everything is very clear so I'm not suspect of any blockage.

I started to think based on some things I'm reading that the cycling thermostat may have failed too. I did notice that in this failure, the heating element comes on even when the motor hasn't started. People online have indicated this is either a cycling thermostat issue or a grounding issue with the heating element.

So... I removed the heating element and lo and behold, on the top left of the element, it contacts the friggin metal case. This can't be normal but I have no idea how it could have happened unless it just got so hot that the wire melted and drooped onto the frame? IS this possible / common? Could this be the failure PRIOR to my thermostat fuse failure?

Can I just bend it back up and call it good?
 

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